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      06-07-2022, 02:58 PM   #1
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Water Injection Block Replacement

Just got my car back from the dealership where I had the original water injection block replaced with the new design. My car follows the typical story of the others who've had their water block replaced. Car sat for a while when new, sounded like it was working after engine shutdown, but wasn't actually consuming any water at WOT and +5000 RPM.

There are two interesting things that came out of this repair. First, the cost of the part has increased significantly compared to the other repairs posted here.

Secondly, the price changed between when the dealership thought I was paying for the repair myself ($6,589) and the price paid through the warranty claim ($5505). The discrepancy makes me curious about how the dealership operates. Or is this a standard procedure where the warranty company negotiates a lower price?
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      06-07-2022, 03:20 PM   #2
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warranty claim to your insurer or did BMW goodwill it?

The craziest thing is that sometimes the car consumes water at a seemingly normal rate, but it's way down on power. Then you replace the stone filter, that was replaced 6 track days ago and you only use distilled water and voila! It works again!
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      06-07-2022, 09:36 PM   #3
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3rd party warranty purchased through the dealership, but not actually administered through the dealer.
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      06-08-2022, 11:24 AM   #4
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Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
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      06-08-2022, 01:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4 View Post
Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. That's why I'm curious if this is some type of standard practice amongst dealerships and warranty companies or if I need to be cautious using this dealer.
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      06-08-2022, 01:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4 View Post
Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
I received a quote from the dealer to replace the windshield and then when the insurance did it through the dealer, it was cheaper. A little annoying to see
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      06-09-2022, 09:30 AM   #7
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just out of curiosity, my Service Technician(guy actually wrenching on car, I always ask for a particular one) told me that with every oil change through BMW maintenance service plan, the water filters are to be replaced.

Was this done with previous owner, even OP owner?
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      06-09-2022, 12:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flint Rockbone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4 View Post
Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. That's why I'm curious if this is some type of standard practice amongst dealerships and warranty companies or if I need to be cautious using this dealer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flint Rockbone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4 View Post
Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. That's why I'm curious if this is some type of standard practice amongst dealerships and warranty companies or if I need to be cautious using this dealer.
Been working as an advisor for Toyota for a few years and this is a pretty normal practice. Most of the difference is generally made up in parts, as the warranty companies rarely pay any mark up on parts. Can't say i've seen this big of a difference, but they are 2 very different manufacturers I guess
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      06-09-2022, 04:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLS_397K View Post
just out of curiosity, my Service Technician(guy actually wrenching on car, I always ask for a particular one) told me that with every oil change through BMW maintenance service plan, the water filters are to be replaced.

Was this done with previous owner, even OP owner?
The car had 61 miles when I bought it from the original owner, so it didn't have a service history. My service tech has never mentioned changing the water filter at oil service intervals.

Originally the dealership only wanted to change the filter to see if that would fix the problem. It's only because of these forums and knowing the issues with the part that I was able to push for the replacement part.
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      06-09-2022, 04:05 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpelps View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flint Rockbone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4 View Post
Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. That's why I'm curious if this is some type of standard practice amongst dealerships and warranty companies or if I need to be cautious using this dealer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flint Rockbone View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnothaM4 View Post
Wiat a minute...that is a huge discrepancy in price and seems shady as hell to me!
Yeah that's what I'm thinking too. That's why I'm curious if this is some type of standard practice amongst dealerships and warranty companies or if I need to be cautious using this dealer.
Been working as an advisor for Toyota for a few years and this is a pretty normal practice. Most of the difference is generally made up in parts, as the warranty companies rarely pay any mark up on parts. Can't say i've seen this big of a difference, but they are 2 very different manufacturers I guess
Good to know that it's standard practice I suppose. But it's still annoying to see it.
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      06-16-2022, 10:43 AM   #11
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Hi all, new to the forum and the GTS. Bought with 8k miles, flawless car except for the Valve Block. Owner had the original one replaced under warranty but it's throwing a code that it's corroded again. The is on the "new and improved" valve block.

I can't pay BMW $5k for valve block and labor so am hoping someone out there has a DIY solution or at least a more affordable valve block option. Thx
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      06-16-2022, 11:02 AM   #12
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Hi all, new to the forum and the GTS. Bought with 8k miles, flawless car except for the Valve Block. Owner had the original one replaced under warranty but it's throwing a code that it's corroded again. The is on the "new and improved" valve block.

I can't pay BMW $5k for valve block and labor so am hoping someone out there has a DIY solution or at least a more affordable valve block option. Thx
Welcome to the forum/gts ownership!

what error is it throwing? I don't think there is a 'corrosion' error. Have you tried changing the stone filter?

No one has come up with a diy solution yet, but as corroded valve blocks become available people will start tinkering with eventually find a solve
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      06-16-2022, 07:51 PM   #13
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Welcome to the forum/gts ownership!

what error is it throwing? I don't think there is a 'corrosion' error. Have you tried changing the stone filter?

No one has come up with a diy solution yet, but as corroded valve blocks become available people will start tinkering with eventually find a solve
I have no CEL but when I took it in for a good once over before a track day they said it had a code for water injection inop due to corrosion. Their manual simply says to replace to valve block.

They told me it just need to be driven more. What I think they mean is, drive it more at WOT to exercise the WI system. I got this strictly as a track car and it could be weeks/months between driving like that.

Yes, maybe others will sort out an alternative. Thanks.
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      06-16-2022, 08:43 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noble Gent View Post
I have no CEL but when I took it in for a good once over before a track day they said it had a code for water injection inop due to corrosion. Their manual simply says to replace to valve block.

They told me it just need to be driven more. What I think they mean is, drive it more at WOT to exercise the WI system. I got this strictly as a track car and it could be weeks/months between driving like that.

Yes, maybe others will sort out an alternative. Thanks.
I'd start off by replacing the stone filter and exercising the water use as possible - see if you get the power needle approaching 3 o'clock (horizontal), which typically means the water injection is working.

I have to replace that stone filter after every track weekend, like other posters have recommended here.
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      06-16-2022, 08:55 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noble Gent View Post
I have no CEL but when I took it in for a good once over before a track day they said it had a code for water injection inop due to corrosion. Their manual simply says to replace to valve block.

They told me it just need to be driven more. What I think they mean is, drive it more at WOT to exercise the WI system. I got this strictly as a track car and it could be weeks/months between driving like that.

Yes, maybe others will sort out an alternative. Thanks.
Once someone has a used water block available i have a few ideas of what to do with it
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      06-16-2022, 10:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Noble Gent View Post
I have no CEL but when I took it in for a good once over before a track day they said it had a code for water injection inop due to corrosion. Their manual simply says to replace to valve block.

They told me it just need to be driven more. What I think they mean is, drive it more at WOT to exercise the WI system. I got this strictly as a track car and it could be weeks/months between driving like that.

Yes, maybe others will sort out an alternative. Thanks.
Once someone has a used water block available i have a few ideas of what to do with it
I checked the filter-seemed pretty clean but I do have new kit on the way. I'll give that a try then shake it out. The power meter is definitely showing the 445ish peaks. I'll update once done and tested.
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      08-29-2022, 08:08 PM   #17
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ever get the water injection sorted?

just got a GTS... 2 days at Road Atlanta moving pretty fast and no water used at all... couldn't pass base M4's on th along straight without superior corner exit speed. Needle on monitor never got to 3 o'clock
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      08-30-2022, 11:37 AM   #18
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just got a GTS... 2 days at Road Atlanta moving pretty fast and no water used at all... couldn't pass base M4's on th along straight without superior corner exit speed. Needle on monitor never got to 3 o'clock
Honestly, I ran off a M4 Competition once from a dig, My GTS didn’t start pulling away until 120 ish. Will climbed to 161MPH,(Last when I saw speedo). He got the hole shot. So essentially, from the dig, my front end of the car was behind him and then I slowly caught up. At the end of our sprint, my rear bumper was in front of him. I don’t know if that paints a picture…

Where the GTS excels is basically when you take advantage of suspension and learning the engine torque/horsepower curve. I find it more linear than standard M4. Subjectively, The engine pulls all the way to redline similar to my E60 M5, as opposed to a dead spot just before redline on other trims. So rolling on the throttle is better for me personally, simulating old N/A ///M cars.
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      08-30-2022, 11:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
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just got a GTS... 2 days at Road Atlanta moving pretty fast and no water used at all... couldn't pass base M4's on th along straight without superior corner exit speed. Needle on monitor never got to 3 o'clock
the meter has to get to 3 o clock if you have the right amount of power. And it'll consume water doing that.
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      02-04-2023, 09:37 PM   #20
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This tread just highlights how important it is to have a warranty, not only does it keep a dealership in check it pays for itself to the consumer.
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      02-04-2023, 10:32 PM   #21
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      03-19-2023, 08:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
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I'd start off by replacing the stone filter and exercising the water use as possible - see if you get the power needle approaching 3 o'clock (horizontal), which typically means the water injection is working.

I have to replace that stone filter after every track weekend, like other posters have recommended here.
New guy here - where is the power needle to observe if it is getting to 3 o’clock?
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