[BMW F22]

About to purchase my first road bike (coming from Sirrus Elite hybrid). Rode a Cannondale CAAD10 5, CAAD8 6, Synapse Alloy 6, and LOOK 566 Carbon.

C10 was quickest which is what I want (main goal is to go faster). The race geometry is alright. Wasn't the best comfort for me. Very stiff and I felt lots of road feedbach. C8 was similar but more compliant (a little smoother) albeit slower. The Synapse had the best ride (really smooth yet still giving a good feedback). Thought this was what I wanted but after riding it I realized it was the heaviest of the bunch and the slowest (made for endurance rather than all out speed).

Then I got to ride a LOOK 566 Carbon which, weight wise, is about same as the CAAD10 which is supposedly one of the best Aluminum frames on the market. The 566 is similar to the CAAD8 geometry and it fits me well. I felt comfortable on it. Component wise it is identical to the CAAD10.

Questions for you experts: (1) any other recommendations for about $1,200? and (2) while the CAAD10 didn't fit me best, will I get used to it (perhaps it's my first road bike and has a race geometry)?

Note that the bikes I tried out are all on close out so they are marked down quite a bit ($800 for the CAAD8 6 and Synapse 6- down from $1,299; $1,099 for the CAAD10; $1,299 for the LOOK 566). Original budget was $800 but I don't mind spending a little more on a nice frame/bike.

Thank you in advance!

[The Wind Breezes]

If you know what frame sizes work for you get a bike on craigslist. Fit is rather important and I recommend getting fitted.

I bought a bunch of road bikes on craigslist until I injured myself and stopped riding. You can get a top brand bike a few years old with full ultegra and a carbon frame for $700 or $800 if you're quick to snag it, and china carbon frames (somewhat misleading as guess where ALL non-boutique frames come from) with an with even better groupo for the same price. I like carbon frames because they're extremely stiff, very lightweight, and unlike stiff aluminum frames, they do a really good job of damping higher frequency vibrations. Steel / titanium frames are also good if you come across the right bike. I don't recommend aluminum because they're more jarring.

I also HIGHLY, HIGHLY recommend a power meter. It's SO helpful and interesting that it's a MUST HAVE. It's so important that if your budget doesn't allow both you should get an older bike and fit the power meter. The sad truth is you'll be 99% as fast on a '90s road bike with downtube shifter as a new road bike--and if the difference is that your old bike has a power meter, you'll be way FASTER on it than you would be on a new bike, guaranteed. You can get an older wireless powertap for like $400 or $500.

[BMW F22]

Thank you- I'll look into a power meter.

The bikes I mentioned are on close out (all are 2015 models) and are actually just as much if not cheaper than used on CL. For example, there's a Cannondale Synapse Carbon they have that retails for $5,400 and they are selling for $2,700. Used on CL are $2,900.

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by BMW F22

Thank you- I'll look into a power meter.

The bikes I mentioned are on close out (all are 2015 models) and are actually just as much if not cheaper than used on CL. For example, there's a Cannondale Synapse Carbon they have that retails for $5,400 and they are selling for $2,700. Used on CL are $2,900.

Oh I guarantee you there are some sick deals out there. They'll disappear super fast in your area especially though. You have to get the bikes people are selling to make rent / buy their crack and stuff like that.

In any case, retail or CL, the power meter will be a great decision

[Mr Tonka]

Look at what Giant has to offer. Lately their bikes are offering some serious bang for the buck.

Power meters are great for training. If this is just a recreational bike, it's unnecessary. I recently acquired Powertap P1 pedal power meters and they make training much more effective since you're not gong off of perceived effort. But unless you're training for something, whether it be a race, a long ride or just a personal goal to get faster, its not worth the price of admission. You will want to set aside some budget for some electronics if your a data gathering geek like rest of us. Bicycle electronics could be a thread of it's own, so i'll leave it at that.

Big question... first question any bike shop should have asked you.... What are you going to use the bike for?

You refer to race geometry and a bike being slower or faster than another which is confusing to me. Race bikes are made for specific reasons and have slightly different to very different geometry creating very subtle differences to huge differences in regards to potential speed, efficiency and comfort. ALL which is dependent on the individual rider. A novice rider or pro rider will be able to achieve the same speed, relative to their ability, with any bike in the same price range. Unless we're talking road bike vs TT bike of course.

Bike fit is paramount. A RETUL fit will cost you anywhere from $200 to $300. This is where they use computer scanners and and sensors on your joints to make sure you're using the proper range of motion and are able to function properly on the bike. This all leads to being comfortable when riding. You can also get a standard fit which can be from $70 - $150. This is a guy who uses his knowledge and experience to accomplish the same thing. If you buy your bike from a place that has a bike fitter, you can usually work a good discount on the fit.

I'm pretty much surrounded by triathletes and roadies of all levels from intermediate triathletes to elite level roadies. I was at a dinner party tonight and the cumulative value of bikes between all 10 people there is easily over $125k. That doesn't include the inventory of the bike shop owned by one of the guys there. lol

He'll tell you that the best bike to get is the one that gets you to want to ride it. Whether it be aesthetics, brand, style, components, etc... the bike that calls you to ride it as often as possible is the one to get. As your first road bike, a slight difference in weight shouldn't be a huge deciding factor. Fit/Comfort should be the largest deciding factor. I almost got a Giant Advanced SL 4 months ago when i picked up a new road bike. The Giant was lighter, came with carbon aero wheels, a color i liked better and all the same components. It was also about $500 less expensive than what i ended up going with, but what i got was much more compliant. For it's purpose, that was the most important deciding factor. That will be a far less important factor on my next bike.

[Shredicus]

Probably going to pick oen of these up:

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by Mr Tonka

Power meters are great for training. If this is just a recreational bike, it's unnecessary.

First of all, if this is a "recreational" bike, DON'T GET A ROAD BIKE. They're unnecessarily uncomfortable when you don't ride hard due to the geometry because you're not supporting yourself from your legs and they're also unnecessarily expensive.

I assume you're getting a road bike because you want to go fast, push yourself, compete with the local riders you'll find at the local bike loop(s). In this case, YOU WILL KICK YOURSELF for not getting a power meter when you finally try one and see your exertion quantified / fully logged (the best part of a power meter is looking at your log and seeing what your max output is for various times (5s, 30s, 1m 5m, 20m, etc). It's retardedly interesting even if you're only competing against yourself.

[BMW F22]

Originally Posted by Mr Tonka

Look at what Giant has to offer. Lately their bikes are offering some serious bang for the buck.

Power meters are great for training. If this is just a recreational bike, it's unnecessary. I recently acquired Powertap P1 pedal power meters and they make training much more effective since you're not gong off of perceived effort. But unless you're training for something, whether it be a race, a long ride or just a personal goal to get faster, its not worth the price of admission. You will want to set aside some budget for some electronics if your a data gathering geek like rest of us. Bicycle electronics could be a thread of it's own, so i'll leave it at that.

Big question... first question any bike shop should have asked you.... What are you going to use the bike for?

You refer to race geometry and a bike being slower or faster than another which is confusing to me. Race bikes are made for specific reasons and have slightly different to very different geometry creating very subtle differences to huge differences in regards to potential speed, efficiency and comfort. ALL which is dependent on the individual rider. A novice rider or pro rider will be able to achieve the same speed, relative to their ability, with any bike in the same price range. Unless we're talking road bike vs TT bike of course.

Got it fit at that shop where I rode those bikes (the whole pendulum and bike trainer thing). I ride a 54 cm. I really liked the CAAD10 for speed and agility. I can picture mysef riding that often. Only factor is that it is stiff and so "bumpy/rough". Not sure if I will get used to it. This is for recreational and commuting to work. I would also like to join a local bike group to go on longer rides (up to 50 miles?).

What do you guys ride currently?

[The Wind Breezes]

Originally Posted by BMW F22

Only factor is that it is stiff and so "bumpy/rough". Not sure if I will get used to it. This is for recreational and commuting to work. I would also like to join a local bike group to go on longer rides (up to 50 miles?).

What do you guys ride currently?

That's how road bikes are. You'll get used to it 100%. Use your legs as a suspension when necessary. You can do long group rides on any bike since the level of fitness is what determines how long you can ride, but it's definitely easier on a more efficient bike. On that note, if you're in the draft, it doesn't really matter what you're on as long as you have proper gearing because you'll need to put out minimal power even to cruise at 30 - 40 mph--the people leading are the ones putting in all the effort to break the wind. Drafting cars is also RIDICULOUSLY fun but it takes some balls, good reflexes and a decent sprint since you'll need to be stay really close even for the ideal draft vehicles like buses.

I only ride motos now, but I have an electric bike I assembled / built the battery for. It's a raleigh m60 that's grossly too small for me and it goes 45 MPH completely topped out with no pedaling. Range is 20 miles balls out and 50+ at 20 mph. I love buzzing thru traffic with that thing, drives people in cars CRAZY when you silently blast thru splitting lanes in rush hour traffic

[Mr Tonka]

Originally Posted by BMW F22

Got it fit at that shop where I rode those bikes (the whole pendulum and bike trainer thing). I ride a 54 cm. I really liked the CAAD10 for speed and agility. I can picture mysef riding that often. Only factor is that it is stiff and so "bumpy/rough". Not sure if I will get used to it. This is for recreational and commuting to work. I would also like to join a local bike group to go on longer rides (up to 50 miles?).

What do you guys ride currently?

Put the most deciding weight on comfort. Whether commuting or on a 50 mile ride, you'll appreciate the comfort above everything else. Most 2015 model road bikes will accommodate or even come with 25c tires which does make a good bit of difference in absorbing bumps and vibrations due to the larger contact area and the ability to run slightly lower PSI. Just be sure what ever you're getting will accommodate the larger tires. Many people with commuters and cycle cross bikes are going with 28c tires for this reason.

Road bikes aren't typically comfortable for commuting, but depending on where you're commuting to, they can do the job very well. If you're able to wear bike shorts you will be much happier if your commute is long. If it's just a few miles, you'll be ok without them, but road bikes aren't make to soak up bumps like other hybrids or MTN bikes. That said, i know of a few people who do commute to work on their road bikes. One of them has a 35 mile round trip. But he opps to wear cycling clothes to and from while bringing a change of clothes with him.

I'm riding BMC Gran Fondo at the moment, i'm currently getting ready for a ride from Glacier National park to Yellowstone. 6 straight days of 50 - 75 miles and 2000 to 6000 feet of elevation each day as well. This bike is very comfortable and by design does soak up bumps and vibrations compared the other bikes i considered. After that, i'll probably get something a little more business like as i may get into some races.

[Orenji]

I have a Fuji Altamira 3.0 from 2012. Fuji has interesting geometry to say the least. After a significant back injury, it was the only thing that really felt right. I do use it to commute to work when the weather is mild and my back is up to it. I'm not sure which is more fun on a hard ride, my car or my bike.

I've heard you can find some really nice full-carbon set ups with decent hardware on CL for around your price range, but I've never visisted the site and I would never buy a bike like mine second hand unless I knew the person selling it. I know I'm the minority here, but travelling at 50 mph, weighing twenty times what is underneath me while I'm clipped in makes me nervous unless the thing has never been ridden hard by anyone other than myself.

I've also owned three Cannondale bikes that I liked a ton and I wouldnt' hesitate to recommend their brand, but I absolutely love my Fuji. They're even still around brand new in retail for roughly half what I paid for it, but like I said, they have interesting geometry and many people feel pretty awkward on them.

Get what fits/feels the best. No one can offer you better advice.

[Sidewinderpb]

Shoot me a pm if you decide on giant. Might be able to help.

[McBride]

I would highly recommend the Trek domane if your looking at a road bike for casual Riding. The seatube is detached from the frame so allow the frame to flex and reduce vibration.

Had a ride on my brothers domane and conpared to my specialized it's just in another league for comfort

[BMW F22]

Originally Posted by McBride

I would highly recommend the Trek domane if your looking at a road bike for casual Riding. The seatube is detached from the frame so allow the frame to flex and reduce vibration.

Had a ride on my brothers domane and conpared to my specialized it's just in another league for comfort

They are really out of my budget. The Domanes I looked at are $5k+...

[Mr Tonka]

Originally Posted by McBride

I would highly recommend the Trek domane if your looking at a road bike for casual Riding. The seatube is detached from the frame so allow the frame to flex and reduce vibration.

Had a ride on my brothers domane and conpared to my specialized it's just in another league for comfort

I was going for the Domane since comfort was top on my list of requirements. I was very surprised to find the Gran Fondo i ended up with was just as if not more comfortable. I think part of the reason i like BMC is that they have loads of tech and R&D that go into their designs, yet they don't shout about it from the roof tops. I think they are content with being a smallish bike manufacturer.

But the Domane is a good suggestion outside of the budget. Though if you go with an aluminum frame Domane, the 2.0, you can get it for $1,375 or so.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bi...p/1404000-2016

Would likely be difficult to find a 2015 model 2.0. Though the 4.0 disk is just a few hundred more and you get the carbon frame and disc brakes.

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bi...p/1441100-2016


I love carbon frames, but honestly, an aluminum framed bike makes for a better commuter. Carbon frames are designed to be strong under specific loads. Having one fall over where the top tube is the first place to contact a concrete bench is no bueno for carbon frames. Commuters end up being locked to different structures, thrown in trunks when raining, etc...

[McBride]

Sorry your looking at dollars aren't you. I saw 1200 and though GBP.

My first road bike was a specialized spectre with Alu frame. The geometry is a bit more suited to commuting and isn't quite as harsh. Similar to the domane only half the price.

[E30toF30]

As you mentioned, the caad10 is probably one of the best aluminum frame road bikes out there. If you were to compare that frame with an entry level carbon frame where both have all the same components, there is a very good chance that the caad10 will still be quite a few lbs lighter!

Im not sure any of the carbon frame bikes within that price range you are looking at (retail or cl pricing) is going to be better. Ultimately, a top end aluminum frame will almost always be lighter than any low end carbon frame from any company. Those are my thoughts on the weight side of things.

For geometry, you won't be able to have both super stiff, fast and comfortable all in one. At least I don't think so. You are either going to get something with shorter wheelbase and stiffer which gives you more responsiveness (more twitchy even) and faster, or something slightly longer, less twitchy and less stiff, but more comfortable for the longer rides. Pick one that will be most suitable for your typical rides. If you are racing then go with the faster stiffer frame. If you are going to be doing 100-200km rides, maybe opt for the less fast, more comfortable frame.

At the end of the day it doesn't sound like you are doing any racing so the differences between the different frames won't matter much at all. So my suggestion is get what is most comfortable.

As for other options, I also love Giant. My last three frames were all from the TCR line, as is my current. I find that Giant bikes offer way more value compared to other brands like specialized and cannondale. The same spec'd components on a similarly classed frame is typically a few hundred bucks less at minimum. Not to mention, Giant is one of the largest frame manufacturers (if not the largest) in the world and they make some pretty badass bikes!

Gl on your search on please share pictures when you pick up whichever bike you decide to go with!

[BMW F22]

I am leaning toward the CAAD10 since I can make it more comfortable by upgrading wheels and seats down the road. Am I correct in this thinking?

[Mr Tonka]

Originally Posted by BMW F22

I am leaning toward the CAAD10 since I can make it more comfortable by upgrading wheels and seats down the road. Am I correct in this thinking?

Looks like a good bike. If it fits you well, you should be happy with it. Keep the components clean and well maintained and they will last a long time.

It's rare that and upgraded wheel provides more comfort. Typically, one would upgrade a wheel set to save weight or achieve better aerodynamics. A lighter wheel needs to be stiffer to provide strength and a more aero wheel needs to be deeper which increases stiffness. Stiffness in a wheel leads to less comfort.

Tires however, can create comfort for a rider. I touched on 23mm, 25mm and 28mm sized tires above. The wider the tire the more comfortable they will be. Looks like the CAAD10 could accept even a 35mm tire which is far more comfortable than a 23mm.

Most people run 115 to 130 psi in a 23mm tire. You can get the same rolling resistance running 105 to 110 psi in a 25mm tire. Or lower rolling resistance with a wider tire using the same PSI. Lower PSI and larger contact patch both means more comfort.

Seats are completely subjective. Most shops will have a saddle testing program where you can borrow different types of saddle to try out for a week or so before you make your purchase. The right saddle will go a long way in making your riding experience more comfortable.

[TheYoungConnoisseur]

carbon frame carbon bars carbon wheels carbon cranks. thats the very minimum. not just for weight but for vibration mitigation.

[E30toF30]

Originally Posted by TheYoungConnoisseur

carbon frame carbon bars carbon wheels carbon cranks. thats the very minimum. not just for weight but for vibration mitigation.

Lol. Not at an $800 budget though. I'd love to have high end carbon everything too but don't have $4k or $5k plus to outfit a bike

[BMW F22]

Just rode the Synapse 6 with Tiagra and CAAD10 with 105 again. Still prefer the CAAD10 - more fun to ride. I can see how the Synapse is more comfortable on long rides. Researching Giant TCR SLR2 as well.