[afadeev]

Originally Posted by starlights

Now researching the prep steps and wondering if Iron remover is a necessary step.

It isn't.
Prepping for cermaic coating (aka liquid polymer, aka thin layer of transparent plastic) application is no different than prepping for waxing the car. You want to clean the surfaces first. Otherwise, you will just scratch the paint as you apply wax/ceramic coat on top of dirt.

If you can clean the paint without Iron remover, than you don't need it.
I do find Iron removers very helpful for cleaning the wheels and the lower sections of the doors and fenders. But those can also be cleaned with other chemicals.
I also ceramic coated my wheels for subsequent ease of washing and maintenance.

Originally Posted by starlights

I suspect that since my car is always garaged, any of these name brand ceramics will outlast my ownership of the vehicle.

You are probably right.

a

[aktif8]

Originally Posted by starlights

Thanks all. Looking at GYEON MOHS EVO. Is that considered top tier for DIY ceramics? Will likely apply two coats.

I will be doing a one or two stage paint correction as required prior to applying ceramic.

I went with mohs Evo after doing a pro 3 stage correction. I normally diy, but my car needed some pretty aggressive swirl removal.

I went diy on the coating - it was trivially easy. Couldn't recommend it more highly - it is an absolute no brainer. Almost impossible to screw up. Looks terrific. I did an initial application of Cure right after the coating - I've been maintaining with d3fy.

[NSXR]

The big thing with ceramic coating (that hasn't been mentioned) is that you don't want to get it wet within 2 weeks (3 weeks in the Winter) of application because the water will break the bonds, causing it to not cure properly and as a result, wear off much more quickly.

[starlights]

Originally Posted by NSXR

The big thing with ceramic coating (that hasn't been mentioned) is that you don't want to get it wet within 2 weeks (3 weeks in the Winter) of application because the water will break the bonds, causing it to not cure properly and as a result, wear off much more quickly.

Thanks! I will be mindful of that. The car is normally garaged so hopefully won't be difficult.

[starlights]

Considering that the car currently has wax on it, what's the recommended order in decon/correction process?

Wash > Iron R > Wash > Clay > Paint Correction > Wash > Surface Cleanser/Prep Spray > Ceramic coat. Is this correct or does it have too many washes?

For washes, I plan to do rinse less using ONR - is that an issue?

[bosstones]

Originally Posted by starlights

Considering that the car currently has wax on it, what's the recommended order in decon/correction process?

Wash > Iron R > Wash > Clay > Paint Correction > Wash > Surface Cleanser/Prep Spray > Ceramic coat. Is this correct or does it have too many washes?

For washes, I plan to do rinse less using ONR - is that an issue?

I think you can skip the wash after the iron remover so long as you rinse well but others might disagree.

I wouldn't use ONR and definitely not for the final wash. Not sure if it has been confirmed but I've read enough speculation about it leaving a polymer film behind. I'd stick with a regular wash; obviously something that is not a wash/wax, wash/SiO2, etc... combo.

re: wax, there are washes that help strip a wax coat as part of a wash. A combo of that plus the paint correction would do the deed. Some might say paint correction alone (assuming some degree of polish) should he fine. If it were me, I'd leave nothing to chance.

[bosstones]

Originally Posted by starlights

PS - nice images on your flicker! I shot extensively as a pro until a few years ago

Thanks! I haven't posted or even logged into my flickr in a long time! I can definitely tell a progression from my older stuff to the later stuff, both from pix in general but also how I did any post-processing. Sadly, I don't get out much anymore, at most a side excursion if I'm on business travel.

Off topic but I'd love to see some of your work. The photography sub-forum isn't very active anymore but that'd be the place to post'em. Then again, this is your thread so you could hijack it any which way you wanted.

[afadeev]

Originally Posted by NSXR

The big thing with ceramic coating (that hasn't been mentioned) is that you don't want to get it wet within 2 weeks (3 weeks in the Winter) of application because the water will break the bonds, causing it to not cure properly and as a result, wear off much more quickly.

That's doesn't sound right.
Many coatings warn against washing the car with strong detergents for first 1-2 weeks, but rain exposrue after 24 hours is usually perfectly fine.

Of the onese I used, the following trend emerges:

• Adams - Fully cure for 24 hours, free from water, elements, or weathering.
• McKeys Graphene Pro-Coat 2.0 - Avoid exposing the vehicle to moisture for 6 hours. We have revised our curing time from 24 to 6 hours!
• Gyeon Mohs Evo - Let coating dry for 12h before using the vehicle. Cure for 24 hours.
  [**] Recommended application temperature is between 59F to 77F. Do not apply in direct sunlight.

Originally Posted by starlights

Considering that the car currently has wax on it, what's the recommended order in decon/correction process?

Wash > Iron R > Wash > Clay > Paint Correction > Wash > Surface Cleanser/Prep Spray > Ceramic coat. Is this correct or does it have too many washes?

If the car is clean, most car shampoos with mid-high pH level (acidic) will strip wax layer. If unsure about what shampoo to use, Dawn dish soap will work as stip shampoo this for certain, or Strip Wash if you want to be fancy.
If anything was missed, Claying will get the wax remnants for sure.

Typical Directions:

1. Chemically and mechanically decontaminate the paint. By whatever means necessary, ending with a rinse/wash.
2. Before applying the coating, wipe the vehicle down with Coating Prep Spray (each coating brand has their own). Usually, this is just diluted alcohol.
3. Once the surface has been properly prepped, apply the coating one panel at a time. Apply side-to-side, and then up-and-down in cross-hatch pattern.
4. Once you finish coating, level excess product using a microfiber towel. Use short, firm strokes when buffing off excess. Flip your towel often.
5. Avoid exposing the vehicle to moisture for 6-24 hours (read specific coating instructions).

a

[NSXR]

Originally Posted by afadeev

That's doesn't sound right.

Ceramic coating takes 2 to 3 weeks to fully cure (depending on several factors), and depending on which website you read you'll find different answers as to how long you should wait to expose it to any type of moister. Every installer should explain that water exposure within this period will absolutely shorten the life of the coating to varying degrees. This is literally the main reason why people have different outcomes with ceramic coating life.

[s_ribs]

Originally Posted by starlights

Thanks all, your responses have been very helpful with providing me options to research. For now, after a lot of you tube video comparisons (with a grain of salt at some) I am zeroing in on MOHS Evo. This video was helpful between my final two contenders :

You just found one of the best and most trusted resources for car care products. Mike G knows his stuff!

Check out his recent video for the best coatings. CarPro CQuartz UK 3.0 is still one of his favorites and is on par (maybe slightly better?) than Gyeon MOHS.

A little more $ but check out Armour Detail Supply. Their Quartz coating is one of Mike's favorites and I look forward to applying the bottle I just purchased later this Spring. I've heard it may not be the best for your first time applying a coating though. FWIW