[M_Six]

Is there any reason to not use connectors like this instead of wire nuts? I've been mounting new lights outside our doors lately. The wires from the lamps are not solid copper, so it's a pain getting them to work with the romex using wire nuts. It's doable, but a hassle. I'm wondering if this type of connector would work better.

[vreihen16]

Don't tell the IBEW or the wire nut cabal that I shared this link for UL-approved (residential use) electrical connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MGMFDI/

I've used them in all of our ceiling fan electrical boxes, to join stranded wires from the fans/lights to solid copper power wires.

You're welcome.....

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

Don't tell the IBEW or the wire nut cabal that I shared this link for UL-approved (residential use) electrical connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MGMFDI/

I've used them in all of our ceiling fan electrical boxes, to join stranded wires from the fans/lights to solid copper power wires.

You're welcome.....

I saw some of these today at a hardware store and was wondering if they'd work. I may pick up a few to try out when I replace an outside light fixture.

[ryan stewart]

As long as the wire is captive and insulated I wouldn't stress it.

youll see wago levernuts in panels and whatnot. those are actually more secure than a wirenut. ESPECIALLY with stranded. Wirenuts work best with solid wire thick enough where you can twist the wire up so the wire itself serves as the mechanical connection and the nut is as much insulation as anything.

[ToddBlack88]

I like to use Marr connectors when joining stranded and solid wire.

[2000cs]

Originally Posted by M_Six

Is there any reason to not use connectors like this instead of wire nuts? I've been mounting new lights outside our doors lately. The wires from the lamps are not solid copper, so it's a pain getting them to work with the romex using wire nuts. It's doable, but a hassle. I'm wondering if this type of connector would work better.

There is a technique for everything.
With wire nuts, make sure you have the right size for the wires (gauge and number). Solid wires should not be pre-twisted together. Just cut to the appropriate length, line them up, and twist the connector on tight. That is a tight mechanical and solid electrical connection, insulated. If stranded wires are involved, twist each wire individually, trim to length if needed, and then proceed as with solid wires.

If you do that, they are fast and versatile and pretty easy to store in a junction box, fixture or whatever.

[antgenn]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

Don't tell the IBEW or the wire nut cabal that I shared this link for UL-approved (residential use) electrical connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MGMFDI/

I've used them in all of our ceiling fan electrical boxes, to join stranded wires from the fans/lights to solid copper power wires.

You're welcome.....

Thanks for sharing! We used that type of connectors in industrial setting all the time. I did not know they were approved for residential though. Will use them for all future needs to replace wirenuts!

[vreihen16]

Double check the published UL specs, as I am only repeating what I have been told. I am not a member of the wire nut cartel to know what the exact UL specs for every use are:

https://www.wago.com/us/wire-splicin...21-413#details

Approvals per UL 486C
Rated voltage UL (Use Group C) 600V
Rated current UL (Use Group C) 20A

[DETRoadster]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

Don't tell the IBEW or the wire nut cabal that I shared this link for UL-approved (residential use) electrical connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MGMFDI/

I've used them in all of our ceiling fan electrical boxes, to join stranded wires from the fans/lights to solid copper power wires.

You're welcome.....

I've used those too. They are fast and easy for install but a major hassle if you ever have to undo them. That's my only gripe with them. Most folks don't twist wire nuts on nearly hard enough. They twist until they get a little resistance and then stop. You gotta keep going till the wires themselves are also braided into a few twists. if you aren't going to take the time and effort to do that, then what you've posted here is ultimately better I think.

[vreihen16]

I have not had problems undoing a WAGO connector. I just pop the lever using a small screwdriver, and the wire pops right out.....

[M_Six]

More questions. I've been looking at Philips Hue Wall Switch Modules. Basically you wire all the copper together (except the ground) so the light is always powered, then you wire the Switch Module into the existing toggle and tuck everything back into the box. The switch now turns on the light (which must be a Philips Hue bulb) through the Hue Hub system. Sounds easy enough and looks easy enough for a single pole light. But all they say about 3-way setups is that you need the same module at each switch. That makes sense. But how do you combine the wires in a 3-way switch so the light is alway powered on? You have a Line, a Load, a Traveler, and a Neutral (and of course, the ground). Assuming the Neutral is only connected to another Neutral in the back of the box, do you just wire the Line, Load, and Traveler together?

https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/...e/046677571160

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

Don't tell the IBEW or the wire nut cabal that I shared this link for UL-approved (residential use) electrical connectors:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MGMFDI/

I've used them in all of our ceiling fan electrical boxes, to join stranded wires from the fans/lights to solid copper power wires.

You're welcome.....

Got a small box and just used some to mount a light outside the back door. Soooo much easier than wire nuts. Thank you for the education, Professor.

[Kolyan2k]

Originally Posted by M_Six

Got a small box and just used some to mount a light outside the back door. Soooo much easier than wire nuts. Thank you for the education, Professor.

I used them sometimes, but I prefer wirenuts. The connection is much more reliable when done right

[2000cs]

Originally Posted by M_Six

More questions. I've been looking at Philips Hue Wall Switch Modules. Basically you wire all the copper together (except the ground) so the light is always powered, then you wire the Switch Module into the existing toggle and tuck everything back into the box. The switch now turns on the light (which must be a Philips Hue bulb) through the Hue Hub system. Sounds easy enough and looks easy enough for a single pole light. But all they say about 3-way setups is that you need the same module at each switch. That makes sense. But how do you combine the wires in a 3-way switch so the light is alway powered on? You have a Line, a Load, a Traveler, and a Neutral (and of course, the ground). Assuming the Neutral is only connected to another Neutral in the back of the box, do you just wire the Line, Load, and Traveler together?

https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/...e/046677571160

I saw that in the Q&A but no details on how to wire it. Obviously call their help line to see if they can send a wire schematic for this.

Then, if I was going to do this, I would just rig a test setup with a light and two switches (3-way) on a bench. Then put the Hue in where you think the instructions call for it and see how it behaves. Will cost you some wire, a socket and bulb, two switches and two? Hues. Maybe some of it will survive the test to be reused.

[Kolyan2k]

Don't burn down the house

[vreihen16]

^^^^^ The wire nut cabal ^^^^^

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by Kolyan2k

Don't burn down the house

I do have a pro coming out this week. Finally. Tough getting trades folks to come out to your house these days. But I intend to have this person explain some of this crazy wiring to me and maybe install some switches for me. I'm always happy to pay for a pro to do work. I'm just not willing to wait 6 months for it.

[M_Six]

Originally Posted by Kolyan2k

I used them sometimes, but I prefer wirenuts. The connection is much more reliable when done right

I wouldn't use them for anything but lighting. But that's pretty much all I'd tackle myself anyway.

[DETRoadster]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

I have not had problems undoing a WAGO connector. I just pop the lever using a small screwdriver, and the wire pops right out.....

There's a release lever? I guess I didnt look that close. I just cursed it and snipped it off.

[vreihen16]

Originally Posted by DETRoadster

There's a release lever? I guess I didnt look that close. I just cursed it and snipped it off.

The beauty of the WAGO is that they are easily removable/reusable:





.

[DETRoadster]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

The beauty of the WAGO is that they are easily removable/reusable:





.

Nice! I used something similar when they first came out and I'm pretty sure there was no simple release mechanism. Kind of like a zip-tie in that, yeah, sure, you could release it and use over if you were Hell bent to do so but for the hassle you'd just snip it off and start over. These guys look to have improved the design considerably..

[vreihen16]

Originally Posted by DETRoadster

Nice! I used something similar when they first came out and I'm pretty sure there was no simple release mechanism.

Back-stabbers, like the Ideal (brand) Spliceline products? No, thanks!

WAGO is designed/made in Germany, so it has to be good.....