[Cloud9blue]

Trying to get the car ready for OBD emission check that is due in a few weeks.

Installed dp fix a few weeks back and reactivated catalytic checks in BMS backend pump backend flash through turner pro (can't find flash back to my stock flash for some reason, the ecu keeps going into recovery mode).

So I did the drive cycle last night (http://www.europeantransmissions.com...0Procedure.pdf), got 29f4 code. So I turned up the dpfix 1/8 (from 5 o'clock position), redid the drive cycle. That seems to do the trick, as I got all monitors in "yes" (except for evap, which takes a little longer) according to INPA (see my attached picture).

So I drove the car the testing station this morning. Throw 2C7E (lambda probe, bank 1, trimming control), 2C7F (lambda probe, bank 2, trimming control), and 2C6B (lambda probe, system check) and along with a SES light. No big deal, been having these codes popping up every now and then for the past month. But just as I was going to pull into the station, I got a "reduce engine power" warming. Checked the codes with JB4 and it shows 29F4, 29F5 .................... INPA shows that the catalyst readiness as "no"......

With all the traffic around Chicago during the day, I just cant do a proper drive cycle at the moment. Plan now is to redo the drive cycle this evening after I turn up the dpfix another notch to 3 o'clock position. But I am wondering, are the 2C7E, 2C7F, and 2C6B codes affecting the emission readiness? What the hell are these codes anyway?

[Cloud9blue]

Here are the codes btw.

[135Pats]

Read the thread I had on my DPfix saga, it's not the exact same codes, but it's a very similar scenario.

You are on the clock, put simply. On the one hand, as you can see your monitors are all being set properly. But once that happens, for whatever reason, you have a limited amount of time until one of the trimming codes throws an in-dash SES. When that happens, your goose is cooked.

It's a PITA, but I cleared everything to start from scratch, putzed around on the highway and some city driving. Watched my OBD scanner like a hawk and once the monitors were all ready, I went straight to the emissions testing.

Sparknotes: Forget the codes, what matters is an in-dash SES and monitor readiness. I passed with codes up the wazoo.

[scottp999]

You turned off the auto-clearing of the cat codes in the JB4? You can have a dp fix, and not turn off the code clearing in the JB4 and it will clear codes and readiness at the same time. You will not have readiness for long. Is that possibility eliminated?

On procede it is called canclear. you have to disable canclear and have the dp fix (built in to procede called the o2 modifier setting, or use an external dp fix) on. If you forget to turn canclear off, you get the symptoms you are describing. I don't know what the name of the o2 modifier equivalent functionality is called for the JB4.

[Cloud9blue]

JB4 auto clear is off. I made sure of that every time I go do a drive cycle.

125Pats, guess I might just have to do a drive cycle right before the emission test. INPA is a pain to use, since I have to lug my laptop around. What portable OBD scanner did you use to check your emission readiness?

[N3m3sis]

Obd port doesnt ready with the backend flash.


You need to flash back to the stock bin, and use the dp fix to hold off the cel for o2 sensors

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by N3m3sis

Obd port doesnt ready with the backend flash.


You need to flash back to the stock bin, and use the dp fix to hold off the cel for o2 sensors

Yeah, I know. The backend flash code out the catalytic convertor monitor, but you can re-enable them in turner pro, which is what I did. Weird problem I was having is the ECU keeps going into recovery mode when I tried to flash it back to the stock file. No idea why, since the same file worked just fine a few months back using the same computer, cable, and everything... I did try out some of Wedge's flashes back in July... Didn't like how it ran on my car nor lack of communication from Wedge, so I flashed back to those BMS files. Maybe something got messed up during that...

Speaking of which, I probably should have just went to get the emission test done with the bms flash. All my monitors were ready, except for the one for catalyst... As far as I know, Illinois allow one of the monitors to be in "not ready" state. But now I am stuck with two (evap and catalyst), and who knows how long it will take for the evap to come back.

I did manage to get all but the evap monitor ready last night, as I stated in my 1st post. But my guess is that the dp fix wasn't set in a strong enough setting to keep the cat. inefficiency code out (29f4 29f5) during the dead cold start this morning on my way to the station. Gonna redo the damn drive cycle tonight again, once the traffic dies down. Going to reset the O2 adaption too. See how that works out.

Still no idea why I keep on getting those 2c7e, 2c7f, 2c7b codes. Those only started after a track day about a month ago.

[Cloud9blue]

btw, found the obd reader that can check emission readiness: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK

The only windows laptop I have is a chunky Thinkpad and INPA doesn't play very nicely with it (keeps on throwing error messages). This should be much easier to use for checking emission status.

[N3m3sis]

Well first i would figure out why you cant flash back to stock.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

btw, found the obd reader that can check emission readiness: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001LHVOVK

The only windows laptop I have is a chunky Thinkpad and INPA doesn't play very nicely with it (keeps on throwing error messages). This should be much easier to use for checking emission status.

That's exactly what I bought and used - it works great. Just don't drive the car until a few hours before you want to do emissions (not always logistically easy, I know). Then try to do a drive cycle, and at the very least drive for awhile on the highway. Constantly check the monitor readiness then go destroy that test.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by N3m3sis

Well first i would figure out why you cant flash back to stock.

Easier said then done... I already tried force writing the files countless times. And living in a condo doesn't help either, I have no outlet near my parking space. Only get a few tries each times before the voltage on my battery start to drop. I rather not risk bricking the damn ecu just get the car passed emission.

[Cloud9blue]

Alright, seems like the DP fix is going out of wack. Already at the 3pm position, but still getting the 29f4 and 29f5 codes this morning while I doing my 234,892,875th drive cycle. It looks like the downpipe codes only show up while I slow down from 50-55mph in D from a drive cycle. I always drive in manual mode in normal street driving and somewhat aggressive with the throttle most of the time, so the ECU never show these codes otherwise.

Going to re-flash the car later tonight and reset everything. And then have the car sit overnight and redo another drive cycle tomorrow morning right before the testing center opens at 8am. Wish me luck...

Perhaps it is some weird adaptation issue, since the dp fix worked for the first drive cycle right after I re-flash the car at only 5pm position.

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Alright, seems like the DP fix is going out of wack. Already at the 3pm position, but still getting the 29f4 and 29f5 codes this morning while I doing my 234,892,875th drive cycle. It looks like the downpipe codes only show up while I slow down from 50-55mph in D from a drive cycle. I always drive in manual mode in normal street driving and somewhat aggressive with the throttle most of the time, so the ECU never show these codes otherwise.

Going to re-flash the car later tonight and reset everything. And then have the car sit overnight and redo another drive cycle tomorrow morning right before the testing center opens at 8am. Wish me luck...

Perhaps it is some weird adaptation issue, since the dp fix worked for the first drive cycle right after I re-flash the car at only 5pm position.

Can you fail one set of monitors in IL? In MD, you can fail any one set and it's fine.

I didn't have to do this since all my monitors reported "ready", but I do wonder what would happen if you yank the DPfix, flash to a stg1 map, then do some drive cycles.

I *think* every monitor would set ready except catalyst, which if you can fail one set of monitors would not cause you to fail.

Again, the key here is balancing it against the in-dash light, which is the kiss of death.

It's a completely PITA, I got so frustrated with it. You'll get it to work, that OBD scanner is your best friend.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Can you fail one set of monitors in IL? In MD, you can fail any one set and it's fine.

I didn't have to do this since all my monitors reported "ready", but I do wonder what would happen if you yank the DPfix, flash to a stg1 map, then do some drive cycles.

I *think* every monitor would set ready except catalyst, which if you can fail one set of monitors would not cause you to fail.

Again, the key here is balancing it against the in-dash light, which is the kiss of death.

It's a completely PITA, I got so frustrated with it. You'll get it to work, that OBD scanner is your best friend.

Yeah having one being in the not ready is fine. But I have seen some report that the cat readiness has to be on for Illinois. I still have until January to get this passed, but from my previous experience that evap takes forever... It is just so weird that the dpfix worked before...

Worst comes to worst, if I can get it ready in the next week or so, I might just throw on my stock down pipe...

[solishe]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Yeah having one being in the not ready is fine. But I have seen some report that the cat readiness has to be on for Illinois. I still have until January to get this passed, but from my previous experience that evap takes forever... It is just so weird that the dpfix worked before...

Worst comes to worst, if I can get it ready in the next week or so, I might just throw on my stock down pipe...

Amen on xx xxx working before. Last year mine worked no problem on 5 PM setting. Now even at 11 PM it's giving me 2C31/2C32/2C6A. When I take it out it's only the usual 29F codes, so nothing crazy going on with my sensors. Hmm

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Sounds like it would be less of hassle to just put the stock downpipes on for some of you guys or pay off the inspection station

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Sounds like it would be less of hassle to just put the stock downpipes on for some of you guys or pay off the inspection station

Yeah, tell me about it. At this point, paying $150 to reinstall my stock downpipe doesn't look so bad

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by solishe

Amen on DP fix working before. Last year mine worked no problem on 5 PM setting. Now even at 11 PM it's giving me 2C31/2C32/2C6A. When I take it out it's only the usual 29F codes, so nothing crazy going on with my sensors. Hmm

From what I know 2C31 codes take a quite a bit longer to clear completely. Apparently these codes keep on showing up until the ECU completed some stupid checks after SEVERAL drive cycles. So it might that for you.

Have to say, BMW DME is a complete pain in the ass to deal with. My bike, also a BMW, has some weird stalling issue from time to time when the DME switches between open and close loop lambda control. I kind of just learn to live it by now...

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

Yeah, tell me about it. At this point, paying $150 to reinstall my stock downpipe doesn't look so bad

I've paid even more then that in the past just to pay off the inspection station. I wasn't about to remove headers, supercharger and nitrous haha. (different platform obviously)

[solishe]

Originally Posted by Cloud9blue

From what I know 2C31 codes take a quite a bit longer to clear completely. Apparently these codes keep on showing up until the ECU completed some stupid checks after SEVERAL drive cycles. So it might that for you.

Have to say, BMW DME is a complete pain in the ass to deal with. My bike, also a BMW, has some weird stalling issue from time to time when the DME switches between open and close loop lambda control. I kind of just learn to live it by now...

Man but I've driven a bunch of cycles. Then took it out and only got 29F codes. Then put back on at 9 PM and 2C codes back. I don't think it's simply 2C codes being hard to shed...

Tempting to put xx xxx on without JB4 in to see if it's the JB4/xx xxx combo. But PIA to uninstall everything. I ordered the lil Autel also.

[Cloud9blue]

Originally Posted by solishe

Man but I've driven a bunch of cycles. Then took it out and only got 29F codes. Then put back on at 9 PM and 2C codes back. I don't think it's simply 2C codes being hard to shed...

Tempting to put DP fix on without JB4 in to see if it's the JB4/DP fix combo. But PIA to uninstall everything. I ordered the lil Autel also to see if I get readiness for a short time even with codes and no CEL.

absolutely hate doing these drive cycles. Everyone must think I am an complete idiot with my doing only 28mph in a 30mph zone and only 55mph while everyone else is doing 70-80mph. My OBD reader should get here tomorrow, will see how that works out for me too...

[Cloud9blue]

Alright. I gave up. I cleared and reset everything and re flash the ecu. Turned up the wedge's dp fix all the way to 1 o'clock setting. Still getting the damn 29f4/5 codes and half engine light. Funny thing is that these are now shadow codes now, so I can't see them from JB4. Have to actually use the BT cable to read them.

At this pointing I just gonna call my shop next week and have them throw the stock doe pipe back on for the winter. Gonna pull off the dp fix and test out the resistance myself to see if I got a faulty unit or something. Already wasted a full tank of gas doing these awful drive cycles and not gonna deal with any more of these bullshit.