[shushikiary]

So I've seen a few other reviews on the SPEC stage 3+ around and while many of them were interesting they lacked the in depth detail I would have liked, so I'm writing this in case there is someone else out there like me, but note that it is of course subjective.

Also note I got the SMFW.

I recently got a new OTS modified tune from Wedge Performance after he helped me fix some issues I was trying to tune out (timing drops on transitions from partial to full throttle). That particular tune put down so much torque that my stock clutch started to slip at 80k miles in 6th gear and got worse over the course of several weeks to slipping in second gear as well. So I decided to replace it, and sense I may someday get either RB's or VTT stage 2's I figured I wouldnt screw around.

I did the install my self on jack stands with my trusty transmission jack, if you guys want to know more about that I'll be happy to answer, it wasnt too bad of a job - personally I think anyone could do it if they have any experience in doing some more involved car work or a friend who has and is helping them. I'll note that on the install the throwout bearing has two possible positions, and the position that should be used is the one that matches the position of your stock throwout bearing, so pay attention when you remove the old one!!!! They are almost exactly the same dimensions and if you put it in wrong one of two things will happen, either the clutch wont fully engage if you're a euro spec car and you put the bearing in the high position, or you're an American spec car and you put it on the low setting and it lowers your engagement point. My car is a Euro spec car and the bearing was installed in the low position. I'll also note that the pilot bearing can go die in a fire and getting it out required me to remove the transmission from under the car and really slam HARD on a 3lbs slide hammer tool I used from harbor freight. Also, you have the transfer the pilot shaft (yes shaft) from the old flywheel to the new one. Sense I have a 20 ton press that was a piece of cake, without one it could be a little bit of work but I think you could get it done with a 4lbs hammer, the right piece of wood, and some effort.

The first thing I did to break the clutch in was do 40 stop and goes on the streets around my house. So 40 stop and goes took me about 2 miles, each one a start and shift to second then stop. On these the engagement point was almost at the floor and the clutch was VERY grabby and it was a real leg workout. After that I drove the car like a little old granny for the next 1000 miles (many of them highway miles). About the 200 mile point the engagement point moved up the middle of the pedal travel and it became less grabby as long as I was above 1000 RPM. Below 1000 RPM it would grab and un-grab until you matched speed to rev, shaking the car.

As the break in went on eventually the engagement point went to slightly higher than stock and very smooth, only doing the grab and let go shake the car thing very rarely. Eventually that went away completely and now its quite drivable. The pedal also became less stiff. I'll warn that now once you pop the clutch in 2nd gear under WOT the tires lose traction because the thing just GRABS when the clutch is all the way out (even in my XI, it will spin one rear and one front tire when you pop that clutch near redline (1st -> 2nd)).

As far as chatter, when first installed there was no chatter what so ever. Now there is a moderate amount but you cant really hear it in the car. If you're parked in the garage or some place with a lot of reflective surfaces (parking garage or the like) you'll hear it pretty well, but its really not very loud at all.

During launches the clutch is beautiful, the issue I have is being to nice on it. If I try to launch the car from about 2500 RPM it will launch forward and the clutch locks in place and then I bog because the engine has to catch up. If I launch her around 3500 RPM things work out great, car launches like a rocket and then screams like a bat out of hell with no bog what so ever, and the clutch just takes it no problems. I want the clutch to last a long time so I dont do this consistently but sense it was broken in long enough I figured I had to give it a few tries .

[Miller335]

Thanks for the info!

[Evil///M]

You said it all. I love my 3+ clutch!
Did you get the steel or aluminum FW?

[serotoninsteve]

Nice review!
Does the 3+ come with a dampened disc?
Is it droning when accelerating in higher gears as 3th or 4th from low down in the rev range?

[brusk]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

The first thing I did to break the clutch in was do 40 stop and goes on the streets around my house. So 40 stop and goes took me about 2 miles, each one a start and shift to second then stop. On these the engagement point was almost at the floor and the clutch was VERY grabby and it was a real leg workout. After that I drove the car like a little old granny for the next 1000 miles (many of them highway miles). About the 200 mile point the engagement point moved up the middle of the pedal travel and it became less grabby as long as I was above 1000 RPM. Below 1000 RPM it would grab and un-grab until you matched speed to rev, shaking the car.

This is what I found during my breakin that was highly recommended on the mustang sites for spec clutches. My experience the several hundred miles before finding this was horrible. I tried to break it in during stop and go traffic. It would get super grippy the hotter it got and made commuting a nightmare. I highly recommend doing this two days in a row and then driving over the weekend before trying any real commute with a 3+.

[Evil///M]

Originally Posted by serotoninsteve

Nice review!
Does the 3+ come with a dampened disc?

You get a choice of the clutch type/material depending on who you order from.

[Evil///M]

Originally Posted by brusk

This is what I found during my breakin that was highly recommended on the mustang sites for spec clutches. My experience the several hundred miles before finding this was horrible. I tried to break it in during stop and go traffic. It would get super grippy the hotter it got and made commuting a nightmare. I highly recommend doing this two days in a row and then driving over the weekend before trying any real commute with a 3+.

This type of behavior will also depend on what material you're using.

[shushikiary]

Originally Posted by Evil///M

You said it all. I love my 3+ clutch!
Did you get the steel or aluminum FW?

Its the steel one. Knowing how grippy the material was going to be I didnt want a light flywheel, and IMO the steel one will last longer. I dont want to go through that amount of work again ANY time soon.

[shushikiary]

Originally Posted by brusk

This is what I found during my breakin that was highly recommended on the mustang sites for spec clutches. My experience the several hundred miles before finding this was horrible. I tried to break it in during stop and go traffic. It would get super grippy the hotter it got and made commuting a nightmare. I highly recommend doing this two days in a row and then driving over the weekend before trying any real commute with a 3+.

Haha, that's exactly where I got the suggestion from too. Now the thing drives like a dream, its practically a normal clutch with slightly stiffer pedal and slightly higher engagement point. SPEC specifically states that proper break in of the clutch is VITAL to getting it to this point.

Also, just turned the AC on for the first time (we've had 70 degree weather here in colorado this week... yes in January) and the chatter at idle in neutral does get a fair amount louder. Its acceptable IMO, but slightly annoying. For how amazing the thing drives I'll put up with that any day.

[Evil///M]

Oh didn't realize you're in Denver. I'm in the springs. I thought the job was fairly easy!

[shushikiary]

The only parts of it that were what I would call difficult were:

1. Reaching that very top transmission mounting bolt by my self (remember I have solid motor mounts, so getting it to lean back was... harder).

2. Pulling the old pilot bearing.

3. Pulling the rear main seal with sheet metal screws and a hammer

4. One bolt on the transfer case that I had to use a 12 point box end wrench on instead of a socket.


Its not so much hard as it was just time consuming.

[serotoninsteve]

Originally Posted by serotoninsteve

Nice review!
Does the 3+ come with a dampened disc?
Is it droning when accelerating in higher gears as 3th or 4th from low down in the rev range?

What about the type of your clutch? Is it sprung disc?

Is it droning inside the car when acceleration from low down under high load/torque?

[shushikiary]

Originally Posted by serotoninsteve

What about the type of your clutch? Is it sprung disc?

Is it droning inside the car when acceleration from low down under high load/torque?

No drone, and yes the stage 3+ that is sold by top gear solutions (the one I got) uses a sprung clutch that uses SPEC's carbon semi metalic single disc clutch.

Here is the kit I got: http://www.topgearsolutions.com/spec...-sb533f-2.html

[serotoninsteve]

Thanks for the clarifications.
So beside the slight chatter there are no downsides to expect!?

Good to know,
as some reported some drone using a solid disc assembly with a SMFW.

[shushikiary]

Remember that I do have solid motor mounts, so that may change things, but on this car, no drone.

The only other down side is that because the pressure plate uses a fulcrum that is pushed closer to the edge of the plate so the foot pressure is not super increased while the clutch pressure is increased by a lot, that means that as you move the clutch petal the distance the pressure plate moves is much less per pedal change than it used to be. That's why the engagement point goes up, and thus when it does engage you have to be more precise so it doesnt just grab on you. IMO the extra finesse required is rather minor, its not a problem, but that's one of those YMMV things.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by shushikiary

No drone, and yes the stage 3+ that is sold by top gear solutions (the one I got) uses a sprung clutch that uses SPEC's carbon semi metalic single disc clutch.

Here is the kit I got: http://www.topgearsolutions.com/spec...-sb533f-2.html

Thanks for the review and feedback.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Thank you for the review

[Wizzer]

need some help guys, my mecanic suspects that i did not receive the right flywheel. I ordered the spec 3+ with the steel smfw. Now he tells me he dont know what to do with this oem part. What is this part?

[theweebabySeamus]

Looks like a flux capacitor to me...

[jtswole]

Originally Posted by Wizzer

need some help guys, my mecanic suspects that i did not receive the right flywheel. I ordered the spec 3+ with the steel smfw. Now he tells me he dont know what to do with this oem part. What is this part?

You need to press out that pin in the middle and press it in to the new flywheel

[Wizzer]

thx, i sent the link of this post to my friend

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by jtswole

You need to press out that pin in the middle and press it in to the new flywheel