[NotQuickEnough]

I'm still undecided if I should rustproof or not. Some say it's not worth it and can even be detrimental as the oil can clog drain holes.

I also have not seen rust on any e60 or e90, I think BMW really stepped up their game this time around.

[cpie168]

You haven't seen rust on a E90? You should see mine. I bought it used and when jacked up for the first time, I was shocked by the amount of rust everywhere.

We use a lot of salt on the roads here in the GTA over the winter.

[NotQuickEnough]

Originally Posted by cpie168

You haven't seen rust on a E90? You should see mine. I bought it used and when jacked up for the first time, I was shocked by the amount of rust everywhere.

We use a lot of salt on the roads here in the GTA over the winter.

I guess I mean more like surface/body rust.

[Nick.B]

Bottom edge of my rear passenger side door had a little rust. I think the paint chipped off, allowing the rust, not the other way around.

Drivers fender had a small paint bubble caused by rust.

Ground them both down to metal, then zinc primer and touchup paint. Thinking of a light coating in some spots where there are drain holes, and more where there isn't.

Was talking to a guy in a parking lot last week about his 330, and he had a little on the trunk.

[e90Cam]

I'm getting my car done this weekend.

[cpie168]

I'll be getting mine done in the spring, which is said to be the best time of the year to do it. Rust forms not during winter, but during the spring time when it gets warm. That makes sense because the process of rusting is a chemical reaction which doesn't really move forward unless there is a warmer ambient temperature.

[NotQuickEnough]

Originally Posted by cpie168

I'll be getting mine done in the spring, which is said to be the best time of the year to do it. Rust forms not during winter, but during the spring time when it gets warm. That makes sense because the process of rusting is a chemical reaction which doesn't really move forward unless there is a warmer ambient temperature.

So it's true then that parking in garage/underground is bad during winter? My garage stays pretty warm, probably 0 degrees during winter and my gf's underground parking is like 20 degrees

[chmerlinn]

Interesting, was going to do mine in a couple weeks.. Might wait til the spring, can anyone else confirm this waiting until the spring business?

[cpie168]

http://www.ctvnews.ca/pat-foran-s-ti...r-car-1.600797

[kenmar]

Originally Posted by NotQuickEnough

So it's true then that parking in garage/underground is bad during winter? My garage stays pretty warm, probably 0 degrees during winter and my gf's underground parking is like 20 degrees

That is true. My E36 was Krown'ed every year and rust was well-contained until I started parking it in a condo. Once I started that, rust started popping up in various places. It's far better to park out in the cold. Another indicator of salt+temperature being the enemy is the state of my Bilstein shocks/struts: the struts near the engine bay get attacked by rust whereas there is almost negligible rust on the rear shocks.

As for the E90, the Bentley manual says that the body panels are galvanized metal. Most vehicles these days are galvanized (e.g. Civic, Mazda3, Subaru, VW). Weigh that against what some owners are saying about actual rust they see on their E90's. For my E90, I don't bring it in for rust proofing, but I do spray the bottom edges of the doors with Rust Check aerosols from CT. Keep in mind that rustproofing will likely invalidate the manufacturer's body panel warranty.

[chmerlinn]

Originally Posted by cpie168

http://www.ctvnews.ca/pat-foran-s-ti...r-car-1.600797

Originally Posted by kenmar

That is true. My E36 was Krown'ed every year and rust was well-contained until I started parking it in a condo. Once I started that, rust started popping up in various places. It's far better to park out in the cold. Another indicator of salt+temperature being the enemy is the state of my Bilstein shocks/struts: the struts near the engine bay get attacked by rust whereas there is almost negligible rust on the rear shocks.

As for the E90, the Bentley manual says that the body panels are galvanized metal. Most vehicles these days are galvanized (e.g. Civic, Mazda3, Subaru, VW). Weigh that against what some owners are saying about actual rust they see on their E90's. For my E90, I don't bring it in for rust proofing, but I do spray the bottom edges of the doors with Rust Check aerosols from CT. Keep in mind that rustproofing will likely invalidate the manufacturer's body panel warranty.

Thanks for the info guys. Also good to note it appears BMW's have 12 year limited warranty on body, rust-proofing will likely void this warranty. Not sure on details and applicable on ownership change.. But worth looking into before you pull the trigger on rustproofing!

[MightyMouseTech]

Originally Posted by Nick.B

Bottom edge of my rear passenger side door had a little rust. I think the paint chipped off, allowing the rust, not the other way around.

Drivers fender had a small paint bubble caused by rust.

Ground them both down to metal, then zinc primer and touchup paint. Thinking of a light coating in some spots where there are drain holes, and more where there isn't.

Was talking to a guy in a parking lot last week about his 330, and he had a little on the trunk.

You have a 2006, you still have 3 years of body corrosion warranty from the factory?!? Take it to the BMW body shop and have everything replaced.

Just showed my 2006 to our body shop, a bit of rust along the bottom of the driver's door. They will be replacing the entire door under warranty.

I will never use rustproofing on any of my cars. Ruins all the rubber seals and plastics, including wiring. Picky body shops will also void your factory corrosion warranty.

[kenmar]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

...I will never use rustproofing on any of my cars. Ruins all the rubber seals and plastics, including wiring. Picky body shops will also void your factory corrosion warranty.

All true.

I have had problems with my brake calipers seizing up, even though they had recent rebuilds. My suspicion is the rustproofing getting on the rubber seals and causing issues.

Wiring. Rustproofing causes voltage leaks on wiring. My high beams used to mysteriously go on at low voltage. Cleaned the rustproofing residue off the wiring and it solved the problem. You can always have the shop not rust proof the engine bay since rust is usually not a problem there; I'm more concerned about the undercarriage.

My opinion for galvanized cars is to just keep it clean. If you park in a condo, I might do limited rustproofing but you have to weigh that against the 12y warranty

[nitehawk]

Originally Posted by kenmar

That is true. My E36 was Krown'ed every year and rust was well-contained until I started parking it in a condo. Once I started that, rust started popping up in various places. It's far better to park out in the cold. Another indicator of salt+temperature being the enemy is the state of my Bilstein shocks/struts: the struts near the engine bay get attacked by rust whereas there is almost negligible rust on the rear shocks.

As for the E90, the Bentley manual says that the body panels are galvanized metal. Most vehicles these days are galvanized (e.g. Civic, Mazda3, Subaru, VW). Weigh that against what some owners are saying about actual rust they see on their E90's. For my E90, I don't bring it in for rust proofing, but I do spray the bottom edges of the doors with Rust Check aerosols from CT. Keep in mind that rustproofing will likely invalidate the manufacturer's body panel warranty.

So with your E36, you had rust pop up even while getting annual rust proofing from parking in a condo? That worries me I recently moved into a condo lol

[Needbmwpartzz]

I will not rustproof my car..... I currently have no rust as my car was built well enough to resist .

[Zebra99]

Don't do it - more harmful than it is helpful.

This is what are cars are dipped for during the manufacturing process and why we have that super long warranty.

If you see surface that it's because a rock or some other object scraped off the protective material. Once water touches anything bare it'll start to eat away at it which is why if you notice something you take care of it instead of covering it up with that proof oils and sprays.

[Nick.B]

Originally Posted by MightyMouseTech

You have a 2006, you still have 3 years of body corrosion warranty from the factory?!? Take it to the BMW body shop and have everything replaced.

Just showed my 2006 to our body shop, a bit of rust along the bottom of the driver's door. They will be replacing the entire door under warranty.

Having read the warranty, and seeing how it specifically states it's for perforation of he metal (right through) and says that the warranty is void if owners aren't properly maintaining paint chips and other minor paint damage, I didn't even bother going to the dealer. Maybe I'm just too cynical and expect them to try to get out of whatever they can. Maybe BMW isn't so strict and to the letter of the warranty and will bend the rules to keep their 10 year old cars looking good on the road.

If it comes up again somewhere else I will give it a shot, but for these particular panels I wouldn't expect anything now that I've done what I've done to them.

Also, maybe if the overall condition of the paint and body was as nice as some other '06s I see out there I would have tried. Bumper and rocker scrapes, terrible hood and bumper paint from rocks, bunch of small dings, scratches and chips on the doors, and a hood repair job done during a previous owners tenure that looks fine on overcast days in the winter when I bought the car but is not a great match when the sun finally comes out in March. The car looks great from far, but terrible when you really look at it up close.

I can't see evidence of the repair where the rust spots were from even a few feet away, and the rust was all ground out, so it should stay that way.

[MightyMouseTech]

I am a dealer tech (Acura), and our dealership group (Acura, Honda, Toyota, BMW, MB...) body shop is attached to our dealership. I see the corrosion work they do. BMW is VERY good about their corrosion warranty. Have seen them replace almost the entire car (hood, trunk, fenders, inner and outer 1/4 panels, floor....). They have a car in there almost every week getting the same treatment. No fight, just replace everything.

Minor surface rust is different. If it is a rock chip that has started to rust, of course they won't cover it.

[Wolf 335]

You can always tell when car is rust proofed.

Shit is always leaking from under the doors and trunk.

Your car will look like shit but at least it wont rust, right.

Good luck

[Nick.B]

Originally Posted by Wolf 335

You can always tell when car is rust proofed.

Shit is always leaking from under the doors and trunk.

Your car will look like shit but at least it wont rust, right.

Good luck

I think it only looks like that for a little while, then it clears up.

I think I'm going to get a spray can from CT and hit a few spots inside the fenders, door edges, and that spot between the passenger strut tower and the exhaust manifold that's covered with a heat shield where I found a metric f-ton of salt deposits and gravel this spring.

[awesomee92]

I always use Krown, car still looks great with no rust.

[dassub]

My 2006 E90 is just now starting to show some rust on the driver's door, sort of the size of a dime. The bottom of the car is pretty clean, barely any rust showing at all.

I'm getting rid of the car and getting an F30 after winter, so I don't really care. But if I were keeping it, I'd start thinking about what to do about the rust.