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      12-01-2015, 10:14 PM   #1
daustin2
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2008 E90 N54

Hey guys,

I have an 08 E90 6 speed and money shifted in it. I was driving non aggressive in 5th going about 60 mph and wanted to drop it into 4th and i did that aggressively and managed to hit it hard left into 2nd. the RPM tacked all the way up for sure but i immediately pushed in the clutch but the engine lost power so luckily i rolled into a neighborhood. Took it to Auto Scandia to get it checked out and the mechanic told me that the cams were not spinning. He said he could dive into the engine and see whats up for around 1500 but suggested i just replace the engine/clutch which is alot of dough as you guys know so I was looking for advice. This is my first time on the forum all thoughts/advice are welcome.

Last edited by daustin2; 12-01-2015 at 10:21 PM..
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      12-01-2015, 10:25 PM   #2
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Shifting to 2nd at 60 is 6k rpm or so, that's not really a money shift
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      12-02-2015, 01:28 AM   #3
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I did that in one of my earlier cars (a Toyota MR2), the tires squealed/skidded but nothing was damaged. You say the engine lost power, did you scan for codes? Be more specific. And what's a "money shift"?
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      12-02-2015, 07:19 AM   #4
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" cam not spinning" ? Timing chain broke? I thought that usually takes out the engine, but maybe the valvetronic saves the day since throttle was lifted, the valve were almost closed. Interesting feature.

Timing chain shouldn't be $1500, but probably at least $1000 at a good indy shop. You might look at getting new coils and plugs while they are in there if original. I think there may be a cam position sensor that's worth changing too, but not sure.
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      12-02-2015, 10:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thkfast
I did that in one of my earlier cars (a Toyota MR2), the tires squealed/skidded but nothing was damaged. You say the engine lost power, did you scan for codes? Be more specific. And what's a "money shift"?
Exactly what OP did thus resulting in an engine rebuild or replacement which costs $$$$.
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      12-02-2015, 10:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daustin2 View Post
Hey guys,

I have an 08 E90 6 speed and money shifted in it.
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      12-02-2015, 10:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PichaDis11 View Post
Exactly what OP did thus resulting in an engine rebuild or replacement which costs $$$$.
I let one of my buddies drive my car since he hadn't driven stick in a while. Mind you, he knew how, but never drove more than a few times.

We were going about 25mph and he decided to drop it into 1st and dump the clutch without rev matching or anything, the engine was around idle speed when he dumped it. All 4 tires locked up, I was expecting something to break at least. Luckily nothing did. I still can't believe he didn't know you need to rev match, and you should never really downshift to 1st while moving anyways.

It goes without saying he'll never drive a car of mine again.
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      12-02-2015, 10:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heel Toe
Quote:
Originally Posted by PichaDis11 View Post
Exactly what OP did thus resulting in an engine rebuild or replacement which costs $$$$.
I let one of my buddies drive my car since he hadn't driven stick in a while. Mind you, he knew how, but never drove more than a few times.

We were going about 25mph and he decided to drop it into 1st and dump the clutch without rev matching or anything, the engine was around idle speed when he dumped it. All 4 tires locked up, I was expecting something to break at least. Luckily nothing did. I still can't believe he didn't know you need to rev match, and you should never really downshift to 1st while moving anyways.

It goes without saying he'll never drive a car of mine again.
Ouch.. I can only imagine the pain to watch that unfold.
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      12-02-2015, 12:11 PM   #9
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So I just got into the beamer was in American cars my whole life. Not too sure if I completely fucked it up, bent valves etc. but when it happened the engine did not stay on long at all and I did not hear anything bad nor did anything leak or smell. I think I might just drop the 1200 or whatever its going to cost for them to diagnose the problem because if I drop 10k and realize it was a timing chain or something that simple I would be blown. Either way im down a good chunk of change but let the project begin!
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      12-02-2015, 12:16 PM   #10
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I did scan for codes before I got it towed to the shop. codes as follows:


P0340 - Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor A
P0365 - Camshaft position sensor B
P1328 - Knock sensor 2 high input
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      12-03-2015, 04:12 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daustin2 View Post
I did scan for codes before I got it towed to the shop. codes as follows:


P0340 - Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0341 - Camshaft position sensor A
P0365 - Camshaft position sensor B
P1328 - Knock sensor 2 high input
I'm asking a question, not telling you to do the following... but what would happen if you cleared the codes and try to crank the motor and let it run at idle?

I personally can't see how our n54 6M/T can have a problem in 2nd gear @ 60 mph when my 20+ year old eclipse GSX 5M/T can handle 60 MPH in 2nd gear?
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      12-03-2015, 04:20 PM   #12
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I completely agree with you. I am just so unfamiliar with N54's that I am doing as much asking around as I can. My buddy who is pretty good with BMW's thinks it might be my Procede tune which might be tripping the DME. He was actually suppose to call them today ill be sure to put the update in the thread. I will see if I cant get the codes cleared as well.

Thanks for the post.
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      12-04-2015, 12:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fazman View Post
I'm asking a question, not telling you to do the following... but what would happen if you cleared the codes and try to crank the motor and let it run at idle?

I personally can't see how our n54 6M/T can have a problem in 2nd gear @ 60 mph when my 20+ year old eclipse GSX 5M/T can handle 60 MPH in 2nd gear?
This.
The DME needs to be reset to assess its running condition. The presence of some codes will cause a no start condition and/or rough running.
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      12-04-2015, 05:45 AM   #14
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this probably wont have anything to do with it but check the rubber flex disk at the end of your drive shaft.. possible option if its worth anything
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      12-04-2015, 07:44 AM   #15
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I'll take a video of what's happening and post it. I'm going by the shop today to check to oil and what not to make sure no metal is in it. In regards to the DME I'll have to do more research on how to reset it because of how unfamiliar I am with the car.

I'll just for the rubber flex wheel or washer whichever it is as well. My only real question about the DME is would it know to shut the engine off after a mechanical human error such as a missed downshift?
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      12-04-2015, 08:27 AM   #16
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Seems to be all the new rage....

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1201780
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      12-04-2015, 08:33 AM   #17
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Those guys were doing 100 plus....I was driving normal and unaggressive just did a complete misshifted!
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      12-04-2015, 09:20 AM   #18
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you were doing 60, shifted into 2nd, over revved, car shut off. Yours just didnt overrev as much as his, but it still did and could still have the same issues. The DME will shut the car off in an overrev situation.

Take it to a shop, have it checked out. We arent going to be able to diagnose it for you over the internet.
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      12-04-2015, 09:28 AM   #19
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Yeah its at the shop now. They did a diagnostic and pulled codes etc. which I already did and said the same codes popped up. They looked in the engine with the scope not sure the technical name but all they came up with is that the cams are not spinning and he needs to go into the engine to diagnosis the actual issue. Said it would be between 1k to 1500 to do so. He recommended I just do an engine swap because he fears that the engine is done. He said repairs, if its what he fears, would be 80% of what an engine swap would cost, but with the engine swap I can go ahead and replace all components such as clutch, turbo lines, thermo, etc. for not much more. I keep talking about it on the forum to get the most information as possible before making a decision to drop stacks.
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      12-04-2015, 09:49 AM   #20
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have them do a compression test as well. one of the easiest ways to see if a new engine is in order
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      12-04-2015, 01:17 PM   #21
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We know that there is no compression because the Cams are not spinning. We are going to pull logs from the DME to see how high the rev went, check the oil for metal material, if all is still good then move to remove the cover to see if the timing chain jumped along with the other components that are assessable at that point. If all is still good then we know its internal which would mean rebuild/swap. Hopefully its nothing major but we will find out here soon.

Thanks again for the comments.
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      12-04-2015, 01:20 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daustin2 View Post
We know that there is no compression because the Cams are not spinning. We are going to pull logs from the DME to see how high the rev went, check the oil for metal material, if all is still good then move to remove the cover to see if the timing chain jumped along with the other components that are assessable at that point. If all is still good then we know its internal which would mean rebuild/swap. Hopefully its nothing major but we will find out here soon.

Thanks again for the comments.
The only way the cam's aren't spinning is if the timing chain or cam gear broke. Why hasn't the guy checked that?

Mechanically, at 60mph it's not over 7k going into 2nd gear. It's physically not possible for the engine to spin over 7k in second gear while going 60mph like you said you were.
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