[RacePace]

Hi all,
Its a question thats been on my mind for some time for the below reasons & figured instead of getting a set of rims should i be getting turbos?

1)I have wastegate rattle (MHD is set to all the way to 15% rattle fix, no longer rattles at idle but will rattle if revved in neutral past 2000 rpm.)

Im thinking this is a precursor to the turbos nearing its life..

2)On Stage 1 map 98 Octane i get the 30FF low boost after 3-5 consecutive pulls. (Could be the boost solenoids or the turbo?)

The car isnt smoking at all and pulls really hard on 95 Octane Map with no issues but it does have quiet a lag to it given its set all the way to 15% rattle fix.

Am i being paranoid? Or will new solenoids & vaccuum lines be the first thing to do? Please advise, thanks.

[Socket]

Originally Posted by RacePace

Hi all,
Its a question thats been on my mind for some time for the below reasons & figured instead of getting a set of rims should i be getting turbos?

1)I have wastegate rattle (MHD is set to all the way to 15% rattle fix, no longer rattles at idle but will rattle if revved in neutral past 2000 rpm.)

Im thinking this is a precursor to the turbos nearing its life..

2)On Stage 1 map 98 Octane i get the 30FF low boost after 3-5 consecutive pulls. (Could be the boost solenoids or the turbo?)

The car isnt smoking at all and pulls really hard on 95 Octane Map with no issues but it does have quiet a lag to it given its set all the way to 15% rattle fix.

Am i being paranoid? Or will new solenoids & vaccuum lines be the first thing to do? Please advise, thanks.

1/ if you are not getting smoke thenno need to replace turbos yet.. rattle is the waste gates not closing properly. At some point the turbos will need replacing but leave in as long as you can, replace with OEM turbos. aftermarkets are simply too unreliable from my experience

[jcarv20s]

Don't think you are quite there yet but with these cars it's inevitable that they will be replaced. Currently saving for my Pure Stage II setup, car is off the road

[RacePace]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Im considering the Breyton Spirit in 19s
https://www.google.com.au/imgres?img...act=mrc&uact=8

The car has 160 kms on the clock.. i have read oem is more reliable but i figured if im going to be replacing turbos i may want to upgrade them.. 400hp+ would be really nice..

[YoungBlood]

you need to run logs. You may just have a boost leak. 30ff takes a pretty big underboost to trigger. I'm 3 psi under my 17-18 psi target in the top end (5000 ft of altitude and stock inlets can't push more than 14 psi past 6k) and never get 30ff. I got 30ff when I was like 5+ psi under target with a big ass boost leak. My turbos rattled like crazy. But then I tightened up the rear rod like 3-4 turns, and shimmed the bracket of the front actuator, using washers, and I now have zero rattle with 110k on oem turbos. I did all this with the downpipes off and a vac gun to make sure they closed properly and the correct vac pressure, and they still sealed 95% or more. You'd have to have fully binding or pretty screwed wastegates for them to cause 30ff.

my 2c is get the downpipes off, or a stethascope at least, and try the method I mentioned above, if you want to prolong getting new turbos. It took me about 15 minutes to do the back one, you just need a very small wrench 4mm or 5mm I don't recall. The front I had to pull the radiator fan, but using a magnet pick and extensions, it took me about an hour and a half to shim out the actuator and now zero rattles, no rattle fix on MHD, just nice sounding exhaust!

Oh, and I totally bought wheels, I thought I was gonna need new turbos too. But after this, I'm confident they'll last a bit longer so I went ahead and got wheels. If they do blow, new center sections for $400, new wastegates for $100, and an install kit and I'll be back in business for sub $700, it'll just take a day or two of labor but for me, I'd rather do it this way than drop $3k on a car that's 10 years old with 100k miles.

[nikitino25]

"Should I be saving for new turbos?"

The answer is always yes.....

[limitdown]

I haven't even installed the new aftermarket hybrids that just arrived in the mail and I'm already saving for another set.

[RacePace]

Hi YoungBlood, my 335i is a RHD i heard its even harder to adjust the rods as you need to remove the steering rack and half the front end is this true?

Personally ive been wanting to adjust the rods on my turbo for a looong time now... a RHD diy would be nice if someones done it before...

[YoungBlood]

Originally Posted by nikitino25

"Should I be saving for new turbos?"

The answer is always yes.....

This is also true. If you own an N54 you shouldn't be saving for them, you should just have a fund for when parts break. Like the $450 waterpump, or $1000 injectors, $2k for turbos (or the cheaper method I mentioned) and so on. And that's just if you can DIY. Owning one of these cars with any sort of milage if you can't DIY the labor, is a major financial mistake

[Gohan335i7]

[Aus335iguy]

FCP euro have a lifetime warranty on all parts. You'll only have to pay for them once

[YoungBlood]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

FCP euro have a lifetime warranty on all parts. You'll only have to pay for them once

I do find this very interesting...

[YoungBlood]

Originally Posted by Aus335iguy

FCP euro have a lifetime warranty on all parts. You'll only have to pay for them once

I do find this very interesting... Oem also seem to last forever, so it's pretty temping to spend the extra to get a lifetime warranty vs none at all

[RacePace]

Lol i agree

[NotQuickEnough]

Lots of indie shops now days can replace the wastegate actuators for like $800 with new units

[Curt]

Originally Posted by NotQuickEnough

Lots of indie shops now days can replace the wastegate actuators for like $800 with new units

Any shops in bay area that can do this?

[RacePace]

Im just wondering how does the mhd rattle fix work... does it add extra vaccuum to the actuator to keep it closed or does it keep it slighltly open so it doesnt rattle hence the lag that i experience?

[NotQuickEnough]

Originally Posted by Curt

Any shops in bay area that can do this?

Sorry Canada here but there must be some. Find a good BMW shop and ask them.

Originally Posted by RacePace

Im just wondering how does the mhd rattle fix work... does it add extra vaccuum to the actuator to keep it closed or does it keep it slighltly open so it doesnt rattle hence the lag that i experience?

Keeps it open, you can adjust how much, if there is lots of rattle the only setting that may work is 100% open and yes the lag is terrible.