[CanadianTSi]

The N54 Engine bay is fairly cluttered to begin with but on thing that always bothered me was the stock Brake Booster line. Put on an aftermarket intake and it sticks out like a sore thumb.

Relocating it is incredibly easy and only takes 20 minutes. All you need is 3 Feet of 1/2" hose (heater hose or fuel line hose as to not collapse under vacuum) and 2 clamps/ zip ties. I personally cut the stock lines but you could heat them up and slide them apart making this totally reversible if you so choose.

Start off by removing the intake to give yourself some room to work. Here are the 2 connections you will be removing.





Like I said I chose to cut the plastic lines off.



Now simply connect the hose to the pipe beside the intake manifold then feed it down under the charge pipe and conveniently enough the connector at the back near the firewall swivels so you can point it downwards and slide the hose on. I used Zip ties to secure the ends, or you could use small hose clamps.



Slap your intake back on and enjoy the clean look! (Except if you engine bay is as dirty as mine)

[dcafs]

Thanks so much for that write-up.

I have been getting a hard brake pedal once in a while and suspected that blue O-ring might be leaking as I have removed that line so many times to try different intakes.

Doing this will totally eliminate the O-ring.

Saves me having to buy a replacement brake booster pipe as BMW doesn't seem to sell just the O-ring.

[dcafs]

So you bought some 1/2 inch hose for the vacuum line?
Do you know the Internal Diameter?

I assume it's dedicated vacuum hose, since regular rubber would probably collapse under vacuum.

[CanadianTSi]

There is also a gasket where the check valve plugs into the actual brake booster that is known to leak. I'd look there next if this doesn't solve your problem.

[SingleturboVert]

For those looking to do this, do not buy just any vacuum hose. A hardline is best, these are your brakes we're talking about. If the line collapses or otherwise fails to do its job, you have no brakes. Also, the hose is not 1/2", it is 3/8" ID. I used some reinforced vibrant 20425 heater hose.

[CanadianTSi]

I assumed people would be smart enough to not use cheap plastic tubing but I guess I should edit my OP. The 1/2" heater hose I used fit over the stock fittings perfectly but I guess 3/8" would stretch to fit.

[dcafs]

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

There is also a gasket where the check valve plugs into the actual brake booster that is known to leak. I'd look there next if this doesn't solve your problem.

Thanks!

I was wondering about that.

So is the final verdict to use 1/2 or 3/8 ID heater hose?

Did you find the 1/2 hose slipped on fairly easily?

[CanadianTSi]

Yes it did so I'm sure 3/8" would be able to be squeezed on. I haven't experienced any issues yet running 1/2" but I will update if I do.

[OlliD]

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

There is also a gasket where the check valve plugs into the actual brake booster that is known to leak. I'd look there next if this doesn't solve your problem.

+1

which solved my "hard break pedal" issue.

[Tim603]

mmmm I've been wanting to do this for some time now. Might be the perfect excuse to get some more AN stainless line

[SingleturboVert]

Originally Posted by Tim603

mmmm I've been wanting to do this for some time now. Might be the perfect excuse to get some more AN stainless line

Well, you'll still need the two barbs for your vacuum canisters if you have stock frame turbos and the connector to the vacuum pump is one of those plastic deals, so I'm curious how you intend to hook up AN fittings?

[Tim603]

Originally Posted by SingleturboVert

Well, you'll still need the two barbs for your vacuum canisters if you have stock frame turbos and the connector to the vacuum pump is one of those plastic deals, so I'm curious how you intend to hook up AN fittings?

No need for AN fittings for that, just AN line and hose clamps

[dcafs]

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

There is also a gasket where the check valve plugs into the actual brake booster that is known to leak. I'd look there next if this doesn't solve your problem.

Originally Posted by OlliD

+1

which solved my "hard break pedal" issue.

Great.

Does anyone have the part number for that particular washer?
Wondering if it can be purchased individually.

[CanadianTSi]

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ate-part...336765316~ate/

[OlliD]

yup,

position 4:
http://de.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog...sion#6765316_4

Might be a pain in the ass to replace - since I seem to have big hands, I could not reach past the ABS unit which is in the way.
I had to let the dealer replace it - part itself was something around 5 €, took the dealer 1-2AW as far as I remember.

This rubber must fit correctly to seal - I remember reading about when using lubricant, it might damage the rubber shortly after - "spit" might help.

[lightning]

Hi CanadianTSi, sorry to revive this post out of the blue. i would like to know how did you manage to cut open the fittings on the OEM hard pipe? I only managed 1 side, but the other seem totally sealed.

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

The N54 Engine bay is fairly cluttered to begin with but on thing that always bothered me was the stock Brake Booster line. Put on an aftermarket intake and it sticks out like a sore thumb.

Relocating it is incredibly easy and only takes 20 minutes. All you need is 3 Feet of 1/2" hose (heater hose or fuel line hose as to not collapse under vacuum) and 2 clamps/ zip ties. I personally cut the stock lines but you could heat them up and slide them apart making this totally reversible if you so choose.

Start off by removing the intake to give yourself some room to work. Here are the 2 connections you will be removing.





Like I said I chose to cut the plastic lines off.



Now simply connect the hose to the pipe beside the intake manifold then feed it down under the charge pipe and conveniently enough the connector at the back near the firewall swivels so you can point it downwards and slide the hose on. I used Zip ties to secure the ends, or you could use small hose clamps.



Slap your intake back on and enjoy the clean look! (Except if you engine bay is as dirty as mine)

[CanadianTSi]

Originally Posted by lightning

Hi CanadianTSi, sorry to revive this post out of the blue. i would like to know how did you manage to cut open the fittings on the OEM hard pipe? I only managed 1 side, but the other seem totally sealed.

Your just cutting the hard plastic line, it's fairly thin just slice it with a sharp blade and then you can basically unwrap it from the barbed fitting.

[N54rsenal]

Will a 6AN or 8AN Braided Hose fit better on a 3/8 ID with use of hose clamps? Also don't want to get a hose that could collapse.

Fraction Inch MM
AN6 ID__0.34"____8.6mm
3⁄8”____0.375"___9.5mm
7⁄16”___0.4375"__11.1mm
AN8 ID__0.44"____11.2mm
1⁄2”____0.5"_____12.7mm

What's needed
3-5FT of AN Hose Braided Black Nylon or Stainless Steel depending how its routed
x2 Hose clamps
Box cutter or X-Acto
Reroute extend vacuum hose from body into small stock vacuum port on intake manifold right of the throttle body. I did a Tail BOV so I have a matching barb.

[fozzydj]

Guys, would this suffice? Its £15 on Ebay...

Braided Hose Features:
Made of durable CPE synthetic rubber tube bonded and secured by Nylon and 308 Stainless Steel outer braid
Covered with High Quality Woven Nylon to Enhance Flexibility and Give a Cool Racing Appearance
Maximized Resistance to Heat, Corrosion and Abrasion
Working Pressure: 500PSI
Burst Pressure: 2000PSI
The temperature scale ranges from -40F to +350F
Specification:
AN10 Hose I.D. = 0.56 inch approx - O.D. = 0.79 inch approx.

[Maniac0908]

Does anyone have a T fitting right against the wheel well area? Looks like a 3.5mm hose goes into car on drivers side. Anyone know what it’s for?

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by SingleturboVert

If the line collapses or otherwise fails to do its job, you have no brakes. Also, the hose is not 1/2", it is 3/8" ID. I used some reinforced vibrant 20425 heater hose.

Lol that's a stretch. You still have fully functioning brakes it's just no power brakes.

[N54_ABQ]

Originally Posted by Maniac0908

Does anyone have a T fitting right against the wheel well area? Looks like a 3.5mm hose goes into car on drivers side. Anyone know what it’s for?

The small line that tee's off controls the the exhaust flap. I've disconnected mine and just have a vacuum cap on the tee.

Going to reroute the booster line soon. Its annoying to remove anytime I need to service air filters or remove charge pipe. Thanks to the OP for the info.