[eamon]

I'm in the process of restoring my whole car, it just hit 80k miles.

What all should be done by now besides walnut shell blasting? Trans, engine, etc

Running stock

[OlliD]

that depends.

Although it it spread left and right and a litte search would do wonders, I try to remember and give you a short list. This might not necessary depending on your cars healt:

- Trans fluid flush (do it at ZF, they built the trans and know what to do)
- Oil filter housing gasket (becaus: it will leak sooner or later)
- spark plugs
- maybe ignition coils
- all vacuum lines
- check the boost lolenoids. If noisy->replace
- with 80K miles, its time to think about everything that has to do with suspension (coils, and esp. all the control arms [at least their bushings] )
- Oil pan gasket (because: see oil filter housing)
- PCV valve
- maybe buy an oil catch can after nut blasting
- while not tuned, also inspect charge pipe - they might leak even with stock boost, depending on your model year
......

[Sumptuous Hummus]

Originally Posted by eamon

I'm in the process of restoring my whole car, it just hit 80k miles.

What all should be done by now besides walnut shell blasting? Trans, engine, etc

Running stock

We need to know the current condition of everything to answer that question. Pics would help.

I do hope you don't need a new engine and transmission at your mileage.

[BeastMode335i]

If ain't broke, don't fix it.. I'd stick to the regular N54 maintenance schedule..

[tylerboland01]

Also add motor mount, check ball joints and shocks/struts.

My ball joint are leaking at 54k and my brothers shocks were done at 80k. Do the motor mount anyway if you care about your motor.

[Underground6t9]

Originally Posted by OlliD

that depends.

Although it it spread left and right and a litte search would do wonders, I try to remember and give you a short list. This might not necessary depending on your cars healt:

- Trans fluid flush (do it at ZF, they built the trans and know what to do)
- Oil filter housing gasket (becaus: it will leak sooner or later)
- spark plugs
- maybe ignition coils
- all vacuum lines
- check the boost lolenoids. If noisy->replace
- with 80K miles, its time to think about everything that has to do with suspension (coils, and esp. all the control arms [at least their bushings] )
- Oil pan gasket (because: see oil filter housing)
- PCV valve
- maybe buy an oil catch can after nut blasting
- while not tuned, also inspect charge pipe - they might leak even with stock boost, depending on your model year
......

Going down this road can cost you thousands of dollars, like others have mentioned stick with regular maintenance items.

[Chris@VargasTurboTech]

Yep, staying on top of maintenance is different than throwing parts at the car -but there are exceptions. I.e. if you're changing turbos at 90k and have a perfectly fine but original working water pump.... I would change it anyway. Just too easy once you're down there.

Things like silicone vacuum tube etc, after you own the car and changed it all to good stuff will be a once-every-now-and-then upon your own evaluation and inspection.

I have pre-emptively done plugs/coils, and would do again in certain situations but I wouldn't randomly change out injectors for no good reason. Just too much money.

Chris

[eamon]

I think I've heard that the trans fluid should not be touched; is this incorrect information? I feel like the trans does not feel like it did 20K miles ago, like there's a hesitation. Slipping maybe? Should I just have the fluid flushed and replaced? Automatic.

Also for the posters who said to work on the suspension, I had also posted a thread in the correct subforum for advice on options. If you want to chime in it'll be here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1411787
Can't wait for this upgrade

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by eamon

I think I've heard that the trans fluid should not be touched; is this incorrect information? I feel like the trans does not feel like it did 20K miles ago, like there's a hesitation. Slipping maybe? Should I just have the fluid flushed and replaced? Automatic.

Also for the posters who said to work on the suspension, I had also posted a thread in the correct subforum for advice on options. If you want to chime in it'll be here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1411787
Can't wait for this upgrade

At 80k, I'd check to make sure ALL maintenance items are current, including ALL fluids for peace of mind.

Items that become problematic and that you should check would be (to name a few):

Plugs
Coils
Vacuum lines
Water pump/hoses if doing pump
OFHG
VC and/ VC gasket
PCV
Vanos solenoid cleaning
Boost solenoids

As others have mentioned, throwing parts at a car in good working order can be expensive and yield little benefit. One thing to consider if you are doing work is look at items in the path of your work and replacement of those items if they typically fail or wear out at mileage similar to yours. Then, you spend some extra money in parts, save on labor and you are LIKELY doing yourself a favor but even that's not guaranteed.

You mentioned suspension. At 80k, you MAY benefit from shocks/struts/mounts, and potentially sway end links, control arm, ball joints and thrust bearings... have a suspension person check these and advise before pissing away $1500 in all new parts..

[TemjinX2]

doing preventative maintence isnt a bad idea. It better to just replace the part when you want to then to have to do it when your on the side of the road.

I would say the priority would be water pump and themostat. There known to go out between 70-80k like a clockwork.

Then i would say oil filter housing. The oil filter housing, i would say just replace when it actually starts leaking though.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by TemjinX2

doing preventative maintence isnt a bad idea. It better to just replace the part when you want to then to have to do it when your on the side of the road.

I would say the priority would be water pump and themostat. There known to go out between 70-80k like a clockwork.

Then i would say oil filter housing. The oil filter housing, i would say just replace when it actually starts leaking though.

Good call on thermostat!!

Also, it is much better to replace KNOWN problem issues on your schedule rather than on the side of the road.

[TemjinX2]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Good call on thermostat!!

Also, it is much better to replace KNOWN problem issues on your schedule rather than on the side of the road.

yeah mine literally died at almost exactly 75k. Seeing that red engine icon and trying to pull over asap...was not fun.

[jleeo5]

I'm thinking of purchasing a 2009 335xi with 95k kms.... a local toyota dealership has it listed for $15,500.... i've had some discussions with the used car sales manager, and we might be able to make a deal for around $13k....

He advised that the waste gate is rattling....i've read about the temp fixes for this....but want to know should i be prepared to spend $4k addtional in the near future to fix this? i s it worth it to buy knowing this? what about water pump, gaskets etc... any advise, insight to provide is appreciated...

thanks.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by jleeo5

I'm thinking of purchasing a 2009 335xi with 95k kms.... a local toyota dealership has it listed for $15,500.... i've had some discussions with the used car sales manager, and we might be able to make a deal for around $13k....

He advised that the waste gate is rattling....i've read about the temp fixes for this....but want to know should i be prepared to spend $4k addtional in the near future to fix this? i s it worth it to buy knowing this? what about water pump, gaskets etc... any advise, insight to provide is appreciated...

thanks.

Assuming WG means turbos being replaced soon and that they are NOT covered by BMW, 13+4+license+sales tax= roughly 18k....?

The real question is whether the car is worth $18k to you knowing you may have other general maintenance and other repairs coming up.

I have an 08 with just over $100k, and I'd replace turbos if they failed even though that may not make the best economic sense... I like the car and, therefore, may spend more than is reasonable to keep it running well.

[tmo24]

Originally Posted by jleeo5

I'm thinking of purchasing a 2009 335xi with 95k kms.... a local toyota dealership has it listed for $15,500.... i've had some discussions with the used car sales manager, and we might be able to make a deal for around $13k....

He advised that the waste gate is rattling....i've read about the temp fixes for this....but want to know should i be prepared to spend $4k addtional in the near future to fix this? i s it worth it to buy knowing this? what about water pump, gaskets etc... any advise, insight to provide is appreciated...

thanks.

I don't know what warranty is for you in Toronto. US warranty covers waste gate rattle for (I believe) 8 years and 82k miles. Or maybe it's 10 years. Either way, check with the dealer to see if there is a chance to get turbos swapped. I did this when I had my 07 a few years back and they swapped with two new snails. Bmw covered all parts and labor.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by tmo24

I don't know what warranty is for you in Toronto. US warranty covers waste gate rattle for (I believe) 8 years and 82k miles. Or maybe it's 10 years. Either way, check with the dealer to see if there is a chance to get turbos swapped. I did this when I had my 07 a few years back and they swapped with two new snails. Bmw covered all parts and labor.

YES!!! Check warranty terms.

On a similar note, BMW just replaced my HPFP at 99k miles and 9 years old. I believe our warranty on that issue in the US is 10 year or 120k miles. Either way, I didn't pay a dime, which allowed me to "feel good" about paying BMW techs to do a few other items I didn't want to do on jack stands!

[dlbrooks18]

Originally Posted by BeastMode335i

If ain't broke, don't fix it.. I'd stick to the regular N54 maintenance schedule..

This. Only proactive maintenance I would suggest is to replace your water pump and thermostat for piece of mind so you don't get stranded, normally goes out right around 80K miles.