Battery woes

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 08:26 AM

Over the past few weeks my car has not started as fast. I was cleaning it last night and it wouldnt fully turn over when i was done. I charged the battery for a few hours and now it starts just fine. I had a few questions.

My car is a 2013 e92 335i

What is the cheapest method for me to replace my battery and get it working properly? Should i just buy the same battery and then use Carly app to code and register it? Is there a cheaper place to buy these batteries than bmw? Does it need to be OEM?

Is there anyway to check to see if its the alternator? Or should i have the battery checked which would confirm battery or alternator?

With a normal car this would be no problem but ive read there is all kinds of specific things that need to be done so i dont want to screw it up.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Run Silent · 08-23-2018, 08:50 AM

You can do it yourself or have the dealer do it. Dealer is gonna run you about $350 or so for the battery and labor to install and program. If the battery hasn't been replaced, it is probably due - your car is now almost 6 years old.

Here are some links regarding installing and coding your battery yourself along with others regarding battery replacement in general. They were all easy to find using the search feature at the top of the forums.

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 09:15 AM

Thanks for the reply. Slowly reading through it.

From what i read so far if your battery is white it is not AGM. Is that true? Heres a picture of my battery.

Run Silent · 08-23-2018, 09:32 AM

Based on above, I believe that your battery is a lead acid type, not AGM - but I am not 100% certain on this.

I also believe, that irrespective of which battery type you have, the coding will still be required.

Personally, as much as it makes me shiver to spend nearly $400 to have a dealer replace my battery (I've done it myself on every other car I've owned), I will likely have the dealer do mine when it is due, coming up this November. I just don't want to take the risk that something will fail if I attempt it.

Your results may vary, lol.

The Nightman · 08-23-2018, 09:36 AM

If replacement battery is the same type (FLA or AGM) and has the same Ah as the old battery, you simply need to "register" the new battery. This can be easily done with free software like BMW Logger.

If the replacement battery is a different type or Ah, you have to "code" the car's charging profile to match the new battery type or Ah. This process is more involving but can be done yourself with Rheingold. Apps such as Carly or Pro Tool can do it easily, but at a cost. I recommend Pro Tool if you have an Android device.

Your white 90Ah battery is a FLA H8 battery

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 10:04 AM

Thanks for your responses.

Id rather do it myself because im a cheap bastard and i like to tinker. I was going to go the carly route but i see there are BMW tools and VM's that i am downloading to assist with this for free.

If i can remove my dme and benchflash it myself i sure hope i can change a battery. I just need to make sure ive got all my ducks in a row before i go changing things so trying to research as much as possible.

Money aside, would it be a wise idea to switch my battery to AGM or stick with lead acid?

jt335i · 08-23-2018, 10:47 AM

From what understand, AGM is superior to the lead acid in many ways (acid leak proof [no liquid], better low temperature performance, better resistance to damage from being run down, and better cold temperature performance), but is a more expensive battery.

You will need to code your car for an AGM if you install an AGM battery because the charging strategy is different and AGM chemistry has a lower maximum charge voltage than flooded lead-acid.

For me, I when I replaced the 5 1/2 OEM battery on my 2010 E92 335 (bought the car new), my trusted mechanic replaced it with the white (lead acid battery). It's been nearly 3 years with this replacement and I expect to get about the same life out of it as the original.

The Nightman · 08-23-2018, 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wksk

Money aside, would it be a wise idea to switch my battery to AGM or stick with lead acid?

Your call. My E90 has an H8 AGM 90ah but I personally don't see the benefit of it. I plan to replace it with an H7 FLA 80ah battery from Costco (no H8) for half the cost and code it myself.

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 11:28 AM

Good info. ill probably just stick with the same type although the difference in price at both autozone and advanced is 40 bucks: 199 agm vs 169 acid. Oddly enough the AGM battery only has 3 year warranty while the gold acid ones at autozone come with 5 years.

Why would you lower from H8 to H7? prices seem to be the same for both for whichever type of battery.

The Nightman · 08-23-2018, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wksk

Why would you lower from H8 to H7? prices seem to be the same for both for whichever type of battery.

Larger sizes do cost more in Canada but that's besides the point since Costco/Kirkland only offers up to H7 here. If it were available, then I would definitely use an H8

Fun fact: our 2009 C Class is still going strong on its original Varta FLA H7!

ctuna · 08-23-2018, 11:43 AM

group 49/h8
The white battery from BMW is lead acid.
Amp hours that meet or exceed the factory battery are
recommended.
You cannot change to AGM or visa versa without reprogramming
the car for battery type . (Or go down in amp hours)

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by freedomfries

Larger sizes do cost more in Canada but that's besides the point since Costco/Kirkland only offers up to H7 here. If it were available, then I would definitely use an H8

Fun fact: our 2009 C Class is still going strong on its original Varta FLA H7!

I see. that makes sense then. Im still on the fence about whether or not agm due to such similar price but will go H8 either way.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

You cannot change to AGM or visa versa without reprogramming
the car for battery type . (Or go down in amp hours)

Ive almost completed downloading the software to register/code myself. If it doesnt work ill just buy carly and try that.

david in germany · 08-23-2018, 02:48 PM

Just use Carley.

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by david in germany

Just use Carley.

Thanks, but that costs money. Trying to do it for frees i can keep this under $200. Will visit that as last resort option.

Efthreeoh · 08-23-2018, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wksk

Good info. ill probably just stick with the same type although the difference in price at both autozone and advanced is 40 bucks: 199 agm vs 169 acid. Oddly enough the AGM battery only has 3 year warranty while the gold acid ones at autozone come with 5 years.

Why would you lower from H8 to H7? prices seem to be the same for both for whichever type of battery.

I just bought a BMW OE 90/720 battery (Exide) from my local dealer. $165.75. p/n 61 21 2 353 810.

The case size in width needs to be the same as the original battery because the BST snaps on to the top of the battery case. And take my advice, get a second person to help; it takes 3 hands to get the battery out of the battery well.

BravoJohny33 · 08-23-2018, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wksk

Thanks, but that costs money. Trying to do it for frees i can keep this under $200. Will visit that as last resort option.

Get a walmart battery 5 year warranty for around 110 bucks. 20 dollar OBD II cable from ebay and INPA for free. You have a laptop?

Wksk · 08-23-2018, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I just bought a BMW OE 90/720 battery (Exide) from my local dealer. $165.75. p/n 61 21 2 353 810.

The case size in width needs to be the same as the original battery because the BST snaps on to the top of the battery case. And take my advice, get a second person to help; it takes 3 hands to get the battery out of the battery well.

Just called my local dealer. they said mines a 720 amp, not a 900 and it goes for $195. It doesnt sound as good as deal as you got.

If i buy a 900 does it offer any real world benefits?

Just Jacquie · 08-24-2018, 05:20 AM

I’ve been dealing with this for the past couple few months. In fact, I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled my battery 3-4 times in the past 6 weeks, including today.

Going the free route is what I’ve been doing. Here’s a few FREE things you can do before you commit to the new battery.

1. Get the battery tested FREE! (installed or uninstalled) take it to your local auto parts store, i.e. O’Reillys. They’re happy to test it for FREE!
- a) If their tester says it’s Good but low voltage, they’ll likely offer to charge it for FREE! If they don’t offer, just ask.
- b) When they charge it, have them do the speed charge and then transfer it over to the trickle charger for a full day. (Basically just ask the person helping you to charge it the way they’d charge it if it was their own battery.) Trust me it’s worth it.

2. When you have your battery back and reinstall it, drive it for a day and then go back to the same store and ask them to test the battery while it’s in the car and you’ve had a day of driving in it. You’ll have a better idea of what it’s drawing.
- a) have them test on the front auxiliary posts under the hood
AND then...
- b) have them test again directly on the battery in the boot
AND then...

3. Since you’re there, ask them to do a quick diagnostic code reading, they’ll do it FREE! It takes 5 minutes. It may not give as specific of readings that a BMW Shop would, but it’ll give you a nudge if something/anything else is happening. And it’s FREE!

4. If the aforementioned steps all turn out to nip the immediate problem in the bud, then you can consider skipping the new battery (for now...) and simply buying a battery tender for ~$40. Harbor Freight has them for $29.99

If however those steps don’t cure that ailment, then the consensus I’ve reached is to go with the AGM and getting the 900.

As for programming:
1. Sticking with the SAME Exact battery... the one in the car right now... NO programming!
2. Buying a NEW battery, even if it’s the same exact model... YES you NEED to program it! ESPECIALLY if you change the type.
Your car might explode!
(No... I’m just kidding! It won’t explode). But your wallet will have to sooner because the car is constantly calibrating everything and those analytics are compiled and ..... the voltage (literally constantly).... oh just trust me and do the programming... if you don’t, you’ll be buying a new battery way sooner, e.g. exploding wallet.

Here’s one more thing that is FREE. This unsolicited piece of advise... clean the Mass Airflow Sensor!!!!
Why..? I would explain it but it directly coincides with that last bit of blabbing I did... So... I guess just do it, it’ll help regardless of the need for a new battery or not. (FTW!)
Super easy to do!
It’ll cost you $9 and 30-60 mins.
[BMW’s name for it “Hot-Film Air Mass Meter”]

Lastly... battery removing and replacing.
I haven’t had anyone help me with that & I’m 120lbs woman. If you don’t have buddy around, I’m positive you can do it on your own.

I have a handful of tips but not enough time to share them all right now. So I’ll give you 2. If you need more, let me know.

#A) the battery is 45lbs. So when you’re lifting it out. You want to use as much total body power as you can.
- 1. Square yourself with the battery by standing with your left foot inside the trunk directly in front of it.
- 2. Then lean down and grab the 2 handles.
- 3. While holding the handles, look away from the battery and up at the horizon. Keep your gaze there. (*proprioception is the key)
- 4 Next lean forward until your biceps are pressed against the trunk lid gasket.
- 5 Keeping your shoulders square to the battery, you’re going to lift by doing a combine movement of a biceps curl and a leg press. *make sure to maximize the benefit of the leaning against the gasket... while you’re lifting, by slightly leaning further over the side of the car, you transfer some of the load of the battery off of your lower back and on to the car.

#B) Don’t be so afraid of the battery and the cables

Remember: You own it! It doesn’t own you!

Efthreeoh · 08-24-2018, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wksk

Just called my local dealer. they said mines a 720 amp, not a 900 and it goes for $195. It doesnt sound as good as deal as you got.

If i buy a 900 does it offer any real world benefits?

My local dealer is a TradeMotion dealer (i.e. sells parts on line). The on line price is $165. The battery P/N I gave you is the E90 battery, which is 90AH (amp-hour) / 720 CCA (cold cranking amps). See if the dealer is sells parts on line or tell the guy you want the on line price. $195 is MSRP.

Efthreeoh · 08-24-2018, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Just Jacquie

I have a handful of tips but not enough time to share them all right now. So I’ll give you 2. If you need more, let me know.

#A) the battery is 45lbs. So when you’re lifting it out. You want to use as much total body power as you can.
- 1. Square yourself with the battery by standing with your left foot inside the trunk directly in front of it.
- 2. Then lean down and grab the 2 handles.
- 3. While holding the handles, look away from the battery and up at the horizon. Keep your gaze there. (*proprioception is the key)
- 4 Next lean forward until your biceps are pressed against the trunk lid gasket.
- 5 Keeping your shoulders square to the battery, you’re going to lift by doing a combine movement of a biceps curl and a leg press. *make sure to maximize the benefit of the leaning against the gasket... while you’re lifting, by slightly leaning further over the side of the car, you transfer some of the load of the battery off of your lower back and on to the car.

LOL. Come on man, I'm 56 years old. I just pulled the frickin' thing out of the well with my buddy holding the cables out of the way.

Wksk · 08-24-2018, 08:37 AM

Thanks Just Jacquie.

Reading that felt like a gieco commercial where everything kept getting bigger except in this case, free.

The Nightman · 08-24-2018, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wksk

Thanks, but that costs money. Trying to do it for frees i can keep this under $200. Will visit that as last resort option.

H8 FLA: $165
K+Dcan cable: $20
BMWLogger software to register new battery: free

Done

08-23-2018, 08:26 AM	#1
Wksk Second Lieutenant 79 Rep 247 Posts Drives: 2013 335i e92 6spd goes vroom! Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Battery woes Over the past few weeks my car has not started as fast. I was cleaning it last night and it wouldnt fully turn over when i was done. I charged the battery for a few hours and now it starts just fine. I had a few questions. My car is a 2013 e92 335i What is the cheapest method for me to replace my battery and get it working properly? Should i just buy the same battery and then use Carly app to code and register it? Is there a cheaper place to buy these batteries than bmw? Does it need to be OEM? Is there anyway to check to see if its the alternator? Or should i have the battery checked which would confirm battery or alternator? With a normal car this would be no problem but ive read there is all kinds of specific things that need to be done so i dont want to screw it up. Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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08-23-2018, 08:50 AM	#2
Run Silent Run Deep 15129 Rep 4,123 Posts Drives: Back and Forth To Work Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: The Mountains iTrader: (0) Garage List 2018 Alfa Romeo Giu ... [0.00] 2022 Ford Bronco 2d ... [0.00] 2016 Alfa Romeo 4C [8.50] 2019 BMW i8 Roadster [10.00]	You can do it yourself or have the dealer do it. Dealer is gonna run you about $350 or so for the battery and labor to install and program. If the battery hasn't been replaced, it is probably due - your car is now almost 6 years old. Here are some links regarding installing and coding your battery yourself along with others regarding battery replacement in general. They were all easy to find using the search feature at the top of the forums. -------------- https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=392533 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1338302 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=292200 -------- https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1395172 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=810245 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=447198 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1314021 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=426046 https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566560
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08-23-2018, 09:15 AM	#3
Wksk Second Lieutenant 79 Rep 247 Posts Drives: 2013 335i e92 6spd goes vroom! Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the reply. Slowly reading through it. From what i read so far if your battery is white it is not AGM. Is that true? Heres a picture of my battery. Attached Images
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08-23-2018, 09:32 AM	#4
Run Silent Run Deep 15129 Rep 4,123 Posts Drives: Back and Forth To Work Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: The Mountains iTrader: (0) Garage List 2018 Alfa Romeo Giu ... [0.00] 2022 Ford Bronco 2d ... [0.00] 2016 Alfa Romeo 4C [8.50] 2019 BMW i8 Roadster [10.00]	Based on above, I believe that your battery is a lead acid type, not AGM - but I am not 100% certain on this. I also believe, that irrespective of which battery type you have, the coding will still be required. Personally, as much as it makes me shiver to spend nearly $400 to have a dealer replace my battery (I've done it myself on every other car I've owned), I will likely have the dealer do mine when it is due, coming up this November. I just don't want to take the risk that something will fail if I attempt it. Your results may vary, lol.
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08-23-2018, 09:36 AM	#5
The Nightman Cometh 1092 Rep 1,308 Posts Drives: Boy's Soul Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Boy's Hole iTrader: (4) Garage List E90 LCI "330i& ... [10.00]	If replacement battery is the same type (FLA or AGM) and has the same Ah as the old battery, you simply need to "register" the new battery. This can be easily done with free software like BMW Logger. If the replacement battery is a different type or Ah, you have to "code" the car's charging profile to match the new battery type or Ah. This process is more involving but can be done yourself with Rheingold. Apps such as Carly or Pro Tool can do it easily, but at a cost. I recommend Pro Tool if you have an Android device. Your white 90Ah battery is a FLA H8 battery
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08-23-2018, 10:04 AM	#6
Wksk Second Lieutenant 79 Rep 247 Posts Drives: 2013 335i e92 6spd goes vroom! Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Thanks for your responses. Id rather do it myself because im a cheap bastard and i like to tinker. I was going to go the carly route but i see there are BMW tools and VM's that i am downloading to assist with this for free. If i can remove my dme and benchflash it myself i sure hope i can change a battery. I just need to make sure ive got all my ducks in a row before i go changing things so trying to research as much as possible. Money aside, would it be a wise idea to switch my battery to AGM or stick with lead acid?
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08-23-2018, 10:47 AM	#7
jt335i Major 263 Rep 1,225 Posts Drives: 2010 E92 335i Monaco blue Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Tampa, Fl iTrader: (0)	From what understand, AGM is superior to the lead acid in many ways (acid leak proof [no liquid], better low temperature performance, better resistance to damage from being run down, and better cold temperature performance), but is a more expensive battery. You will need to code your car for an AGM if you install an AGM battery because the charging strategy is different and AGM chemistry has a lower maximum charge voltage than flooded lead-acid. For me, I when I replaced the 5 1/2 OEM battery on my 2010 E92 335 (bought the car new), my trusted mechanic replaced it with the white (lead acid battery). It's been nearly 3 years with this replacement and I expect to get about the same life out of it as the original. __________________ 2010 BMW 335i: Monaco blue metallic/Premium+Sport Auto-Steptronic, BMW PE, Cobb Stage 2 2005 Mustang GT: Redfire metallic/5-spd/Ford Racing (Axle backs, silver Bullitt wheels)/K&N CAI/ Diablo Sport Predator Tuner 1997 Toyota Corolla 1983 Mercedes Benz 380SL Roadster
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08-23-2018, 11:28 AM	#9
Wksk Second Lieutenant 79 Rep 247 Posts Drives: 2013 335i e92 6spd goes vroom! Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Good info. ill probably just stick with the same type although the difference in price at both autozone and advanced is 40 bucks: 199 agm vs 169 acid. Oddly enough the AGM battery only has 3 year warranty while the gold acid ones at autozone come with 5 years. Why would you lower from H8 to H7? prices seem to be the same for both for whichever type of battery.
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08-23-2018, 11:43 AM	#11
ctuna Lieutenant General 1926 Rep 13,134 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	group 49/h8 The white battery from BMW is lead acid. Amp hours that meet or exceed the factory battery are recommended. You cannot change to AGM or visa versa without reprogramming the car for battery type . (Or go down in amp hours)
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08-23-2018, 02:48 PM	#13
david in germany Lieutenant Colonel 730 Rep 1,815 Posts Drives: 118i, 335i and 328i Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Mannheim Germany iTrader: (2)	Just use Carley. __________________ 2009 118i Monaco Blue "Maximillion" 2009 335i Saphire Black M Sport "Leopold" Cobb stage 2 aggressive tune, Mishimoto FMIC, Cobb charge pipe, Cobb catted down pipes, Forge diverter valves, BMS inlets and DCI, Cyba scoops and M Individual Audio retrofit and M3 gauge cluster retrofit. 2011 328i Titan Silver M Sport "Franzel" <--Wife's car
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08-24-2018, 05:20 AM	#18
Just Jacquie Registered 0 Rep 1 Posts Drives: e90 335i xDrive N55 Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Vacation iTrader: (0)	I’ve been dealing with this for the past couple few months. In fact, I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled my battery 3-4 times in the past 6 weeks, including today. Going the free route is what I’ve been doing. Here’s a few FREE things you can do before you commit to the new battery. 1. Get the battery tested FREE! (installed or uninstalled) take it to your local auto parts store, i.e. O’Reillys. They’re happy to test it for FREE! - a) If their tester says it’s Good but low voltage, they’ll likely offer to charge it for FREE! If they don’t offer, just ask. - b) When they charge it, have them do the speed charge and then transfer it over to the trickle charger for a full day. (Basically just ask the person helping you to charge it the way they’d charge it if it was their own battery.) Trust me it’s worth it. 2. When you have your battery back and reinstall it, drive it for a day and then go back to the same store and ask them to test the battery while it’s in the car and you’ve had a day of driving in it. You’ll have a better idea of what it’s drawing. - a) have them test on the front auxiliary posts under the hood AND then... - b) have them test again directly on the battery in the boot AND then... 3. Since you’re there, ask them to do a quick diagnostic code reading, they’ll do it FREE! It takes 5 minutes. It may not give as specific of readings that a BMW Shop would, but it’ll give you a nudge if something/anything else is happening. And it’s FREE! 4. If the aforementioned steps all turn out to nip the immediate problem in the bud, then you can consider skipping the new battery (for now...) and simply buying a battery tender for ~$40. Harbor Freight has them for $29.99 If however those steps don’t cure that ailment, then the consensus I’ve reached is to go with the AGM and getting the 900. As for programming: 1. Sticking with the SAME Exact battery... the one in the car right now... NO programming! 2. Buying a NEW battery, even if it’s the same exact model... YES you NEED to program it! ESPECIALLY if you change the type. Your car might explode! (No... I’m just kidding! It won’t explode). But your wallet will have to sooner because the car is constantly calibrating everything and those analytics are compiled and ..... the voltage (literally constantly).... oh just trust me and do the programming... if you don’t, you’ll be buying a new battery way sooner, e.g. exploding wallet. Here’s one more thing that is FREE. This unsolicited piece of advise... clean the Mass Airflow Sensor!!!! Why..? I would explain it but it directly coincides with that last bit of blabbing I did... So... I guess just do it, it’ll help regardless of the need for a new battery or not. (FTW!) Super easy to do! It’ll cost you $9 and 30-60 mins. [BMW’s name for it “Hot-Film Air Mass Meter”] Lastly... battery removing and replacing. I haven’t had anyone help me with that & I’m 120lbs woman. If you don’t have buddy around, I’m positive you can do it on your own. I have a handful of tips but not enough time to share them all right now. So I’ll give you 2. If you need more, let me know. #A) the battery is 45lbs. So when you’re lifting it out. You want to use as much total body power as you can. - 1. Square yourself with the battery by standing with your left foot inside the trunk directly in front of it. - 2. Then lean down and grab the 2 handles. - 3. While holding the handles, look away from the battery and up at the horizon. Keep your gaze there. (proprioception is the key) - 4 Next lean forward until your biceps are pressed against the trunk lid gasket. - 5 Keeping your shoulders square to the battery, you’re going to lift by doing a combine movement of a biceps curl and a leg press. make sure to maximize the benefit of the leaning against the gasket... while you’re lifting, by slightly leaning further over the side of the car, you transfer some of the load of the battery off of your lower back and on to the car. #B) Don’t be so afraid of the battery and the cables Remember: You own it! It doesn’t own you!
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08-24-2018, 08:37 AM	#21
Wksk Second Lieutenant 79 Rep 247 Posts Drives: 2013 335i e92 6spd goes vroom! Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Florida iTrader: (0)	Thanks Just Jacquie. Reading that felt like a gieco commercial where everything kept getting bigger except in this case, free.
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