[Nickco43]

Both my drivers side and passenger side door drains are beginning to rust. Anyone have any ideas for delaying the spread of it? I could just let is spread until it shows on the outer door skin and then just get new doors. I could not see myself taking a 12 year old car to the body shop for this.

[blueloco]

I've been down this road many times now as I was born and raised in the rust belt. To slow the inevitable (not a repair) here is what I do:
Clean/brush off any loose paint chips.
Dry it out and fix any leaks you can.
Use any one of the more reputable "rust converter" products. Most of them do a good job. They mostly convert the red rust/iron oxide to black which is more stable and can be painted. You can just stop here if you want and spray it again the next time it looks red.
You can then apply an overcoat to color match but not too much as it won't last forever.
You can also inundate the area with Corrosion block or similar lubricants that you can reapply every few months. This actually works quite well and the stuff wicks into the spaces you can't see, of course you have to clean it completely if you ever want to apply paint again.

What doesn't work for long is trying to do body restoration work without a complete strip job.
Undercoatings or "sealing it up" don't work in my experience.

[mecheng77]

To prevent this, park on incline and put a few drops of oil into one end and let it drip out other

[Nickco43]

I thought of the game plan. I cleaned the area with alcohol and slapped touch up paint on. When I buy my LCI parts car eventually I will swap the doors.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

I thought of the game plan. I cleaned the area with alcohol and slapped touch up paint on. When I buy my LCI parts car eventually I will swap the doors.

alcohol won't do jack for the rust that's already there.

top coating it will slow it, but it will bubble and ultimately be worse than if you had just left it be.

blueloco is spot on with his recommendations.

I dribble ATF into everything before every winter. I also spray the underside with ATF, paying special attention to holes in the frame and any seams in the sheetmetal. That's where it will start.

no, it's not terribly environmentally friendly, but then again neither is scrapping a car after 10 years because rust has killed it.

[TheMidnightNarwhal]

Originally Posted by nsjames

alcohol won't do jack for the rust that's already there.

top coating it will slow it, but it will bubble and ultimately be worse than if you had just left it be.

blueloco is spot on with his recommendations.

I dribble ATF into everything before every winter. I also spray the underside with ATF, paying special attention to holes in the frame and any seams in the sheetmetal. That's where it will start.

no, it's not terribly environmentally friendly, but then again neither is scrapping a car after 10 years because rust has killed it.

Why ATf? Why not get it sprayed with a actual rust proof thing.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by nsjames

alcohol won't do jack for the rust that's already there.

top coating it will slow it, but it will bubble and ultimately be worse than if you had just left it be.

blueloco is spot on with his recommendations.

I dribble ATF into everything before every winter. I also spray the underside with ATF, paying special attention to holes in the frame and any seams in the sheetmetal. That's where it will start.

no, it's not terribly environmentally friendly, but then again neither is scrapping a car after 10 years because rust has killed it.

The alcohol was to clean the dirt. As long as it does not rust to the outer door shell in 4 years I will be happy.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal

Why ATf? Why not get it sprayed with a actual rust proof thing.

Why should I pay someone a few hundred bucks to do what I can do in my driveway with 10 dollars worth of ATF and a garden sprayer.

just don't be dumb with your application. Obviously you want to stay away from the exhaust.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Nickco43

The alcohol was to clean the dirt. As long as it does not rust to the outer door shell in 4 years I will be happy.

Por-15, is black so it won't show much on your car. Is the best product.

[tadaska]

I have this problem too. Did a bit of looking into and WaxOyl seems like a good product for this. But I haven't used it yet so can't offer any feedback.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by nsjames

Why should I pay someone a few hundred bucks to do what I can do in my driveway with 10 dollars worth of ATF and a garden sprayer.

just don't be dumb with your application. Obviously you want to stay away from the exhaust.

What kind of sprayer do you use?

[nsjames]

literally a garden sprayer.

you can cut the atf with acetone or mineral spirits. After it evaporates it will leave a film of ATF.

this is old school rust proofing.

[gunnerxq]

I don't know if the 2006 cars still have the 12 or 13 year rust warranty from BMW. If it's still valid they would replace the warranty for you. Also it's unlimited miles but if your odometer was replaced than you're shot out of luck like I was.

[mecheng77]

Originally Posted by nsjames

literally a garden sprayer.

you can cut the atf with acetone or mineral spirits. After it evaporates it will leave a film of ATF.

this is old school rust proofing.

You mean the one you pump to pressurize?
Does the oil clog the nozzle?
Do you put the car on stands or just spray what you
Can from the sides of the car,

[robthewrench]

"All new BMW cars registered from 1st Janaury 2004 are covered by a 12-year anti-corrosion warranty against perforation by rust."

This is the warranty language. Perforation often means a hole through the panel, surface rust may not count.

[AllBlackBimmer]

Fluid film is your friend. Great stuff.

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by mecheng77

You mean the one you pump to pressurize?
Does the oil clog the nozzle?
Do you put the car on stands or just spray what you
Can from the sides of the car,

yes
no
on ramps with the undercovers removed. Pay articular attention to holes and seams, and brake lines. They rust badly here. I just replaced all the fuel/brake lines on a malibu. They all rust out just before the drivers rear wheel.

some use bar and chain oil because it's tacky.
some use chain wax because it dries.

this is a relatively common practice for the old timers around here. The old farmers you see with a 1980's ford F150 that hasn't completely rusted out by now, which is a minor miracle given how much salt ODOT uses in a winter. They used to just use used motor oil and cut it with diesel or kerosene. Then you drive down a gravel road and get it all covered in dust. Seriously, that's what they tell me.

I prefer the ATF because it's not stinky, and it tends to creep into the seams of unibody bits.
Is it as good as a professional job? I can't say, but in my experience any job I do in the driveway is generally done with greater care than a job I pay someone to do, because it's my junk and I care about it way more than some guy getting paid to work on it.

Fluid film and all of that is available if you want to do it correctly, but ATF has kept my junk rust free for a long time, and it costs me about $5 for a quart of dexron.

[Nickco43]

Originally Posted by nsjames

yes
no
on ramps with the undercovers removed. Pay articular attention to holes and seams, and brake lines. They rust badly here. I just replaced all the fuel/brake lines on a malibu. They all rust out just before the drivers rear wheel.

some use bar and chain oil because it's tacky.
some use chain wax because it dries.

this is a relatively common practice for the old timers around here. The old farmers you see with a 1980's ford F150 that hasn't completely rusted out by now, which is a minor miracle given how much salt ODOT uses in a winter. They used to just use used motor oil and cut it with diesel or kerosene. Then you drive down a gravel road and get it all covered in dust. Seriously, that's what they tell me.

I prefer the ATF because it's not stinky, and it tends to creep into the seams of unibody bits.
Is it as good as a professional job? I can't say, but in my experience any job I do in the driveway is generally done with greater care than a job I pay someone to do, because it's my junk and I care about it way more than some guy getting paid to work on it.

Fluid film and all of that is available if you want to do it correctly, but ATF has kept my junk rust free for a long time, and it costs me about $5 for a quart of dexron.

ATF smells bad, any other less messy or stinky alternatives?

[nsjames]

lanolin works as well, but the cost is such that you may as well buy a proper product.

atf doesn't smell nearly as bad as bar and chain oil or used motor oil.

it goes away after a day.

[blueloco]

http://www.blockcorrosion.com

I've been using these products for years maintaining equipment exposed to salty air, seawater etc. They are legit. I don't use much for cars but fortunately Alaska doesn't dump pure salt on the roads so cars up here are in relatively great condition all things considered and ignoring all the rock chips and mosquito guts. You can get Corrosion Block at many hardware stores and marine supply outfits. Seriously good stuff with many many uses.

[Efthreeoh]

Holy shit do you have nothing else to worry about in your life. Congrats.

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by gunnerxq

I don't know if the 2006 cars still have the 12 or 13 year rust warranty from BMW. If it's still valid they would replace the warranty for you. Also it's unlimited miles but if your odometer was replaced than you're shot out of luck like I was.

Originally Posted by robthewrench

"All new BMW cars registered from 1st Janaury 2004 are covered by a 12-year anti-corrosion warranty against perforation by rust."

This is the warranty language. Perforation often means a hole through the panel, surface rust may not count.

IIRC the vehicle must be inspected by a dealer every three (3) years in order for this warranty to be valid but I could be wrong. OP, (going the Mike Miller route), speak/show your local service manager the rust and see what he/she says. However, I bet your vehicle was a late 2005/early 2006 build and since it’s almost October 2018 this 12 year warranty has expired. Still, ask regardless and if they balk, seek a goodwill, though goodwills should be saved for something major (drivetrain, etc...).