[srey]

I'm in the process of installing VRSF silicone inlets on my car, and the rear inlet is a complete pain. I think it was a mistake to drop the subframe (leaving it attached to the suspension). I thought it would give me more room to maneuver and allow me to raise and lower the engine a bit, but I think it just opened up areas for the inlet to get pinched between the bell housing and the firewall. I'm having a tough time seeing how it will fit without being pinched between the firewall and the engine once everything is back together.

Anything I'm missing? I've got the inlet very close to the snout of the turbo, and could probably get it clamped on if that stupid oil line with the heat wrap wasn't right in the way. It's hard to get the inlet to move at all after the 90 degree curve leading up toward where the PCV breather hose attaches. Speaking of that attachment, it is about one inch too far to the driver's side to hook up easily, but I'm having a bear of a time moving it over. I'm almost at the point where I just want to rent an engine lift and pull the engine to do the install. I won't go that far, but I am frustrated.

[dpaul]

Let the engine drop further, as much as it can - that will open up space between the engine and firewall and the inlet pipe will be much easier to push through. I'll assume you have the down pipes removed. In my case the inlet did become compressed by the firewall after the engine position was restored but it's been that way for 20K miles without tearing or popping off the turbo snout.

I can't image how one would get the inlet in place without dropping the subframe.

I have RB silicone inlets, not VRSF but I doubt there is any significant difference.

I had no problem with the PCV location but the OEM DV pipe was an inch too short to reach the opening in the silicone inlet. There's always some damn problem with aftermarket fitments.

[srey]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Let the engine drop further, as much as it can - that will open up space between the engine and firewall and the inlet pipe will be much easier to push through. I'll assume you have the down pipes removed.

Yeah. Downpipes are out. One issue I'm having is the engine shifting a little bit to the passenger side. I've tried adjusting the support bar, but am not having much luck with it. I think I just need to enlist a helper to push the engine over to the passenger side while I'm underneath the car.

[dpaul]

Having a helper never hurts.

You could also consider loosening the trans mount - that will let you shift the engine forward a little and a little is all you probably need.

Mine is an xdrive - not sure what non-xdrive trans mount looks like or if above suggestion is feasible for you

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by dpaul

Let the engine drop further, as much as it can - that will open up space between the engine and firewall and the inlet pipe will be much easier to push through. I'll assume you have the down pipes removed. In my case the inlet did become compressed by the firewall after the engine position was restored but it's been that way for 20K miles without tearing or popping off the turbo snout.

I can't image how one would get the inlet in place without dropping the subframe.

I have RB silicone inlets, not VRSF but I doubt there is any significant difference.

I had no problem with the PCV location but the OEM DV pipe was an inch too short to reach the opening in the silicone inlet. There's always some damn problem with aftermarket fitments.

Ya, I think you have made mountain out a mole hill.

[srey]

I am admittedly venting a bit, but that's mostly because I couldn't get it into position. I've watched that diy and a few others. I just haven't massaged it into the right position yet. I'll get it done after work today, hopefully.

[Silent9n54]

vaseline is your friend

[diolev]

dish soap the rear to slide it in, or what shanker said KY JELLY

[neilvan]

I installed inlets on my car with the subframe in place. My turbos were out which may have made it easier but absolutely 2 people plus lots of lube made it easy.

[Rob@RBTurbo]

Always best to do during turbo install. Not sure about the others, they should be similar, but last time I put an RB Rear Silicone Inlet through (while turbo was removed) it took all of a minute or two to get it through. As for doing with the turbos in place, with engine in car, seems like a pain.

As for the 2" silicone inlets if they are 2" all the way through they indeed get pinched pretty bad through the scrunch area. All said 1.75" inlets are a much nicer fit IMO, so don't get 2" unless you absolutely need them (ie. turbos have a 2" snout- which shouldn't be needed unless you are going for 650+whp).

Rob

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Ya, I think you have made mountain out a mole hill.

AWD makes everything into a mountain

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by srey

I'm in the process of installing VRSF silicone inlets on my car, and the rear inlet is a complete pain. I think it was a mistake to drop the subframe (leaving it attached to the suspension). I thought it would give me more room to maneuver and allow me to raise and lower the engine a bit, but I think it just opened up areas for the inlet to get pinched between the bell housing and the firewall. I'm having a tough time seeing how it will fit without being pinched between the firewall and the engine once everything is back together.

Anything I'm missing? I've got the inlet very close to the snout of the turbo, and could probably get it clamped on if that stupid oil line with the heat wrap wasn't right in the way. It's hard to get the inlet to move at all after the 90 degree curve leading up toward where the PCV breather hose attaches. Speaking of that attachment, it is about one inch too far to the driver's side to hook up easily, but I'm having a bear of a time moving it over. I'm almost at the point where I just want to rent an engine lift and pull the engine to do the install. I won't go that far, but I am frustrated.

If you are going with 2" inlets as suggested by other posters, that's your problem. 2" is almost impossible to fit in that small area.

When I put in my 1.75" inlets it was sort of a b@tch getting the rear one in. I greased up mine in silicone grease heavily. I also took off the bracket in the rear that holds the OEM inlet in.

I'd be really careful lowering the engine too much. You are putting a lot of stress on the transmission, drive shaft & Differential, in doing so. Make sure to take off the trans mounts before you lower the engine.

It might look like it will fit because of the space you created and then when you put the engine back into place, then what?

1.75" barely fits in there as it is. 2" just wont fit without it being pinched. No way.

[rsyed07]

Silicone spray on lube is your best friend.

[srey]

I meant to update this a few days ago, but dish soap did it for me. That and removing the bracket for the stock downpipes. That stupid piece of metal keep me from bring able to pull straight on the inlet. They're on now and I'm getting the car all put back together.

[rsyed07]

Oh yea that bracket is unnecessary if you go with down pipes. I took a 2x4, silcone lube, and just gently hammered it down. I've heard people of using speaker wire and getting good results too.

[nissubaru]

Just to add to this thread in case anyone thinks relocated/passenger side inlets are any less annoying to install. They aren't! Front turbo is easy but the rear inlet is a nightmare.