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      04-15-2020, 12:43 PM   #1
kern417
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SPL Control Arms and Tie Rods DIY

I made a DIY video on upgrading our Control Arms and Tie Rods to the offerings from SPL Parts. There are a lot of benefits, primarily by correcting your suspension geometry after lowering. This is one of those hidden mods that pushes your handling to the next level. Feel free to leave comments or ask questions

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      04-15-2020, 01:35 PM   #2
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I have all SPL Parts on my S14 Silvia and 80k miles no noise or issue. If SPL Parts quality never change since then. Those bearing will last for a long time.
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      04-15-2020, 02:15 PM   #3
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Yep I'm pretty excited to try them out
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Last edited by kern417; 04-15-2020 at 03:10 PM..
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      04-15-2020, 04:44 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Feel free to leave comments or ask questions
How were the gummy bears?

Were you able to get any data on where your Cg actually is height-wise?

Also of note, since these have monoball bushings which can freely rotate in the housings instead of rubber bushings which have a "natural" position and twist from there, it's not necessary to set the knuckle near the normal position before torquing.

Good overview on the SPL parts.
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-328d Wagon Build Log (with helpful reference links)
-My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information

Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations.
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      04-16-2020, 05:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle! View Post
How were the gummy bears?

Were you able to get any data on where your Cg actually is height-wise?

Also of note, since these have monoball bushings which can freely rotate in the housings instead of rubber bushings which have a "natural" position and twist from there, it's not necessary to set the knuckle near the normal position before torquing.

Good overview on the SPL parts.
Grade A quality, but I'm more of a Trolli worm guy. I'll do a review on my next order

No data currently. At the end of the video you can see there is still room for improvement, so I'm considering adding additional washers to raise my roll center further. I don't think it's below ground anymore, but still too low. I wouldn't raise it to a point where it's above the oil pan.

I was mostly worried about preventing binding, but yeah makes sense. Things also go in easier if you move the suspension up and down so just have to play it by ear during install. Also hitting 100+ ft lbs on a rotating assembly really sucks, so I didn't want to have to do that twice.
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
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      05-04-2020, 03:36 PM   #6
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I just wanted to add some comments after driving with the arms for a while - they 100% work.

I had to dial back my camber from 2.5* to 1.5* and I'm still chasing the rear end a bit. This is with 245/275 tire stagger and 2.5* of camber in the rear. I also had to raise the height on my coilovers because it seemingly reduced the clearance to the fender. So it had a bit of a lowering effect for the whole suspension geometry, and raising the coils brought it back to the original ride height.

No noise so far in ~500 miles of city/highway/backroad driving. I highly recommend this for anyone that wants a car that rotates but still has good street manners. Just be ready to make the necessary adjustments to bring the car neutral.
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As long as 3-pedals are an option, I will exercise my right to suffer the handicap and indignity of slower shifts and reaction times.
Youtube/Instagram/TikTok: @kern417
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