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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > How to free aluminum bolt stuck in aluminum block?



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      04-20-2020, 09:49 AM   #1
stewbets
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How to free aluminum bolt stuck in aluminum block?

I removed my transmission this past weekend and found one of the aluminum bell housing bolts was already snapped. I snapped a second one during removal (and seriously jacked up my pinky when it gave out). With the transmission removed I have all the clearance I need to get at both of these studs. They're pretty big bolts. I guess I can't understand why they're stuck in the first place. We're talking about aluminum bolts in an aluminum block. Anyhow, I've tried channel locks, heat and beating on them while wrenching. I'd like to avoid drilling them out if I can. Does anybody have some amazing advice for me?
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      04-20-2020, 11:13 AM   #2
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Drill a hole and hammer in Torx socket. Aluminum is soft and will take the shape of the Torx. Start small so you can go up in size if needed. I have broken one of these bolts, two from oil pan and one from oil pump working on various n54 engines and used above technic to extract them.
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      04-20-2020, 11:21 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
Drill a hole and hammer in Torx socket. Aluminum is soft and will take the shape of the Torx. Start small so you can go up in size if needed. I have broken one of these bolts, two from oil pan and one from oil pump working on various n54 engines and used above technic to extract them.
I think I'll give this a shot. I'm just perplexed as to why they're stuck so badly. A Google search only turns up issues involving steel bolts in aluminum.
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      04-20-2020, 11:41 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I think I'll give this a shot. I'm just perplexed as to why they're stuck so badly. A Google search only turns up issues involving steel bolts in aluminum.
I have learned now to use steel bolts, two on each side when removing transmission as the aluminum bolts (the engine block too
) are getting damaged under tension from the transmission hanging on them.
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      04-20-2020, 12:10 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feuer View Post
I have learned now to use steel bolts, two on each side when removing transmission as the aluminum bolts (the engine block too
) are getting damaged under tension from the transmission hanging on them.
I'm just a tad bit frustrated now. I can't see these bolts budging for anything. I pounded in a T40 and it immediately split the end of the stud in two when I wrenched on it. I can't believe they didn't use steel to begin with. I loathe aluminum bolts.
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      04-20-2020, 12:16 PM   #6
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Use a left handed drill bit and if it doesn't come out while drilling then get an easy out in the hole that it made.

Often when you drill in enough with the left handed bit it will just come out due to the removed material and the fact that the left handed bit is constantly putting a "screw out" force on it.

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      04-20-2020, 12:24 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I'm just a tad bit frustrated now. I can't see these bolts budging for anything. I pounded in a T40 and it immediately split the end of the stud in two when I wrenched on it. I can't believe they didn't use steel to begin with. I loathe aluminum bolts.
As already said, start small(er).

But if the end of the stud is exposed sufficiently, you can use a stud extractor.
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      04-20-2020, 01:06 PM   #8
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As already said, start small(er).

But if the end of the stud is exposed sufficiently, you can use a stud extractor.
I've been able to get a tremendous amount of force using locking pliers. A smaller Torx bit pounded into aluminum wouldn't do better. I also tried my bolt extractor and again was able to get some really good torque on it, but the stud eventually deteriorates and fails before breaking loose. I appreciate the suggestions!
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      04-20-2020, 01:10 PM   #9
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I'm thinking my best bet at this point is to cut off the threads that I've damaged and find 2 jam nuts that will fit and give me something to grab.
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      04-20-2020, 01:14 PM   #10
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Locking pliers and torx, at the same time? Gang up on it!
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      04-20-2020, 01:15 PM   #11
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Oh, and just in case you haven't already; keep it doused in penetrating lube!
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      04-20-2020, 07:24 PM   #12
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These are worth their weight in gold.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Y6JRP9
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      04-20-2020, 09:27 PM   #13
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I ended up getting 1 out of 2. I'm OK with that. The second stud ended up breaking off flush with the block and I'm not going to drill it out. It's the same one that was already broken before I removed the transmission, so I'm not too concerned. Anyhow, my jam nut method was working until it stripped the threads. I went back to the bolt extractor and it worked on one of them. I mean, it was working on both before it sheared off the second one. I really don't like aluminum bolts.
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      04-20-2020, 09:29 PM   #14
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These are worth their weight in gold.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Y6JRP9
That does look nice. It would have been a little easier to work with, but unfortunately the end result would have been the same for me. I can only assume the last person to remove my transmission really messed up the threads.
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      04-20-2020, 09:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I ended up getting 1 out of 2. I'm OK with that. The second stud ended up breaking off flush with the block and I'm not going to drill it out. It's the same one that was already broken before I removed the transmission, so I'm not too concerned. Anyhow, my jam nut method was working until it stripped the threads. I went back to the bolt extractor and it worked on one of them. I mean, it was working on both before it sheared off the second one. I really don't like aluminum bolts.
It's out, don't waste the opportunity to just fix it.
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      04-21-2020, 03:24 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I ended up getting 1 out of 2. I'm OK with that. The second stud ended up breaking off flush with the block and I'm not going to drill it out. It's the same one that was already broken before I removed the transmission, so I'm not too concerned. Anyhow, my jam nut method was working until it stripped the threads. I went back to the bolt extractor and it worked on one of them. I mean, it was working on both before it sheared off the second one. I really don't like aluminum bolts.
Good job!
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      04-21-2020, 09:30 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stewbets View Post
I removed my transmission this past weekend and found one of the aluminum bell housing bolts was already snapped. I snapped a second one during removal (and seriously jacked up my pinky when it gave out). With the transmission removed I have all the clearance I need to get at both of these studs. They're pretty big bolts. I guess I can't understand why they're stuck in the first place. We're talking about aluminum bolts in an aluminum block. Anyhow, I've tried channel locks, heat and beating on them while wrenching. I'd like to avoid drilling them out if I can. Does anybody have some amazing advice for me?
Someone probably cross-threaded them in.

Just leave them imo. The bellhousing will be just fine without two bolts lol.
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      04-21-2020, 10:54 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbnks2 View Post
Someone probably cross-threaded them in.

Just leave them imo. The bellhousing will be just fine without two bolts lol.
Yeah, my thoughts exactly. I'm sure it's easy to cross-thread them if you reuse those bolts.
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