[mook1178]

2011 e92 n55 133,000 miles

I'm replacing the shock absorbers. Should I replace all 3 control arms or just the 2 in this kit from fcp? How can I check to see if replacement is even necessary for these arms?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...iece-lemforder

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mook1178

2011 e92 n55 133,000 miles

I'm replacing the shock absorbers. Should I replace all 3 control arms or just the 2 in this kit from fcp? How can I check to see if replacement is even necessary for these arms?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...iece-lemforder

There are 5 all together, this kit is your wishbone and guide rod. The main control arm (the one that the shocks and springs sit on) don't usually get replaced unless it's damaged or you're upgrading to aftermarket suspension, but the bushings can get replaced if they're shot. The other 2 are your toe link which also doesn't wear a lot but you could check the bushings and/or replace with an adjustable toe arm, that makes alignment a little easier. The stamped box arm is the trailing arm, that is also a prime candidate for an upgrade to a solid rod arm like the one from ECS.

You could replace the wishbone and guide rods as in the kit you linked with M3 upgrade arms from ECS for @ $100 more

[mook1178]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

There are 5 all together, this kit is your wishbone and guide rod. The main control arm (the one that the shocks and springs sit on) don't usually get replaced unless it's damaged or you're upgrading to aftermarket suspension, but the bushings can get replaced if they're shot. The other 2 are your toe link which also doesn't wear a lot but you could check the bushings and/or replace with an adjustable toe arm, that makes alignment a little easier. The stamped box arm is the trailing arm, that is also a prime candidate for an upgrade to a solid rod arm like the one from ECS.

You could replace the wishbone and guide rods as in the kit you linked with M3 upgrade arms from ECS for @ $100 more

Thanks. I don't have tools to replace bushings. It's easier for me to just replace the arm with bushings already in them. So I think I'll at least start with this kit and the shocks.

Is there a way to check if the bushings are shot on the other arms? Excess tire movement or something of the sort?

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by mook1178

Thanks. I don't have tools to replace bushings. It's easier for me to just replace the arm with bushings already in them. So I think I'll at least start with this kit and the shocks.

Is there a way to check if the bushings are shot on the other arms? Excess tire movement or something of the sort?

I bit the bullet and bought all the tools to do subframe and diff bushings, but it's a lot up front and you're right you need them or at least reasonable facsimiles. You can do a lot with threaded rods and washers and nuts and stuff, but some of it is sketchy at best.

Yes, do a visual inspection first and if they look anything like mine do not pass go and order new ones. Then grab them and shake them, if the bushings are shot you'll know. The main control arm and trailing arm bushings are pressed into the subframe and axle carrier, obvs you wouldn't mess with the main control arm unless you have a problem or are doing complete rebuild, the trailing arm is an easy bolt on upgrade tho on the same bushings if they're good. I solve everything by taking it apart, even if you're not replacing them for a refresh as big as you're doing I would unbolt them and wire wheel the mount points and clean w/ new threadlocker/replace the bolts so the're not completely seized when you really do want to change them. The toe link is an easy bolt on too since you're going to need an alignment no matter what if you replace the wishbone and guide rods.

[mook1178]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

I bit the bullet and bought all the tools to do subframe and diff bushings, but it's a lot up front and you're right you need them or at least reasonable facsimiles. You can do a lot with threaded rods and washers and nuts and stuff, but some of it is sketchy at best.

Yes, do a visual inspection first and if they look anything like mine do not pass go and order new ones. Then grab them and shake them, if the bushings are shot you'll know. The main control arm and trailing arm bushings are pressed into the subframe and axle carrier, obvs you wouldn't mess with the main control arm unless you have a problem or are doing complete rebuild, the trailing arm is an easy bolt on upgrade tho on the same bushings if they're good. I solve everything by taking it apart, even if you're not replacing them for a refresh as big as you're doing I would unbolt them and wire wheel the mount points and clean w/ new threadlocker/replace the bolts so the're not completely seized when you really do want to change them. The toe link is an easy bolt on too since you're going to need an alignment no matter what if you replace the wishbone and guide rods.

Thank you for that info

[Ozzie335i]

Jake, what year is your car? My nearly 20 year old Jeep has less rust than that.

[M-technik-3]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Jake, what year is your car? My nearly 20 year old Jeep has less rust than that.

Welcome to the rust belt and where they now use liquid deicer on the roads and it eats your car.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Ozzie335i

Jake, what year is your car? My nearly 20 year old Jeep has less rust than that.

It's an '06 330i. That is the worst spot and looks even worse with a flash closeup,,, but yeah it's pretty bad. It was a northeast car, that's what stuff looks like after 15 yrs or so. This car looks like it's had it's fluids maintained, they were all clean when I drained them but after that nothing. This is the only way to deal with such things,,,,

[colorado.e9x]

I still can't believe you got that exhaust looking the way it does. I mean I can, but what a difference

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

I still can't believe you got that exhaust looking the way it does. I mean I can, but what a difference

[colorado.e9x]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

Looks pretty close to new!

[Mark963]

Nice work!! Mine is a 2011 with only 50k miles, but it's always felt sort of loose and bangs over pot holes. Does your feel any different with the all the bushings your replaced?

[chriszach1]

I just installed this package on my 06 325i...man what a difference.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...e93-bmwmcaktfr

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by colorado.e9x

Looks pretty close to new!

There is no way it looked that nice when new. He’s polished it - looks incredible.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by tlow98

There is no way it looked that nice when new. He’s polished it - looks incredible.

It wasn't as involved as polishing, that look on castings is the result of sandblasting then burnishing with a wire wheel.

Thanks, that's the aesthetic I'm shooting for: "zillion mile basket case that looks better than brand new".

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mark963

Nice work!! Mine is a 2011 with only 50k miles, but it's always felt sort of loose and bangs over pot holes. Does your feel any different with the all the bushings your replaced?

In the process of replacing them, but I can't imagine it's not going to be orders of magnitude better than the worn out stuff that came off it.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

In the process of replacing them, but I can't imagine it's not going to be orders of magnitude better than the worn out stuff that came off it.

I’m sure you have a thread and a mantra on this, but be sure to put something in the rear subframe bushings. Either m3 rears or Whiteline inserts are absolutely amazing with zero downsides.

[Mark963]

Was there ever an outcome from all this work? I'd love to hear details about how it felt and what you learned.

[3PedalJake]

Originally Posted by Mark963

Was there ever an outcome from all this work? I'd love to hear details about how it felt and what you learned.

The OP posted that his new shocks made it ride like new. Mine is still in the air, getting closer finally got the exhaust hung today. I'm still learning a lot about it, hopefully I'll have a report how it feels soon. This is the suspension as it sits:

Front:
M3 E90 sway bar, M3 control arm, M3 thrust arm, white line adjustable sway link, new F.A.G. bearing hubs, Bilstein B8s and Eibach prokit springs, powerstop brakes, SS brake lines.

Rear:
3.64 diff from auto trans car, subframe from a 335d, new GKN axles, M3 wishbones, M3 guide rods, M3 E90 sway bar manzo adjustable toe link, ECS trailing arm, Bilstein B8 shocks, Eiback pro kit springs, new wheel bearings, powerstop brakes, SS brake lines.

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by 3PedalJake

The OP posted that his new shocks made it ride like new. Mine is still in the air, getting closer finally got the exhaust hung today. I'm still learning a lot about it, hopefully I'll have a report how it feels soon. This is the suspension as it sits:

Front:
M3 E90 sway bar, M3 control arm, M3 thrust arm, white line adjustable sway link, new F.A.G. bearing hubs, Bilstein B8s and Eibach prokit springs, powerstop brakes, SS brake lines.

Rear:
3.64 diff from auto trans car, subframe from a 335d, new GKN axles, M3 wishbones, M3 guide rods, M3 E90 sway bar manzo adjustable toe link, ECS trailing arm, Bilstein B8 shocks, Eiback pro kit springs, new wheel bearings, powerstop brakes, SS brake lines.

That looks great.

Up front I recently installed B4 struts and M3 thrust arms (same arm as the non-M really just a different/better bushing). I probably should have gone with B8 struts and I'm still thinking about it but even the B4s feel very harsh over the lousy LA roads. How much worse are the B8?

On the back I'm overdue for new shocks. The dust boots disappeared and I can feel the back end hopping and losing traction over bumps while accelerating. Since I want to get another alignment after replacing the shocks I will probably install M3 control arms up front at the same time. I replaced my original shocks on my 325i aroujd 240K miles. To say they were worn out is an understatement, however surprisingly all of the rear arms/links/bushings were fine so I didn't bother changing them. I had that car aligned and new tires installed and it rides and handles perfectly.