09-06-2021, 07:27 PM | #1 |
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Racechip GTS S58 M4 Comp Install Video + Before/After Dyno
Please note: The dyno used was a Mustang Dyno with a baseline of 427whp. for a fair comparison with a dyno jet (which reads 500 whp as a baseline for S58), we are comparing the delta in percentage and not absolute value.
the Racechip GTS made +13% WHP & +17% WTQ on 91 Octane (map 7) Here is the dyno w/ map 5 (default map) Full install video
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09-06-2021, 08:37 PM | #2 |
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Do some dragy pulls
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09-07-2021, 08:30 AM | #3 |
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I'll try to get draggy pulls if i have time, cant make any promises as we have lots of installs and dynos scheduled
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09-07-2021, 09:51 AM | #5 |
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Its throttle closures when you hit the torque limiter to keep the boost dialed constant. You dont feel it in the car and unless you tune the car to increase the torque safety limits all piggy backs will behave the same. Fyi this also happens in comfort mode
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09-07-2021, 10:00 AM | #6 |
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I have been driving in map 7 for almost a month. I have not experienced any throttle closures with lots of WOT driving.
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09-07-2021, 10:54 AM | #7 |
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Would it make sense to install a cable extension for the hard-to-reach sensor so that if you do need to uninstall the Racechip for service visits it makes it easier to unplug and plug in the factory connector?
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09-07-2021, 10:56 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
Im on 91 in Cali.
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09-07-2021, 11:35 AM | #9 |
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Throttle closures cannot be felt guys. Its only important if youre trying to exceed stock torque limits (like 600-620+ tq) with a piggy back without changing the torque limits via software recalibration. You cant just target boost to the moon without having safeties unless you remove them
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09-07-2021, 11:48 AM | #10 |
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Im not taking the whole harness off for service... Ill just pull the controller.
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09-07-2021, 11:59 AM | #11 |
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09-07-2021, 12:02 PM | #12 |
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Theres a plug that goes in where the controller would be to shunt it. It goes into mode "Not there" since its not connected...Remember you're not programming anything, you're just altering the input/output signals of the sensors to fool the stock ECU into applying more boost, fuel pressure, etc..
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09-07-2021, 12:19 PM | #13 | |
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09-07-2021, 12:21 PM | #14 | |
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Its right in front of their eyes. Then the reinstall took about the same time... peace of mind.
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09-07-2021, 12:23 PM | #15 | ||
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That sensor under the intake was a PITA for me going in
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09-07-2021, 12:30 PM | #16 |
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To facilitate removal of the system if needed, would adding something like this to extend the intake sensor cable help? I know that this is not the correct cable but only for illustration. https://www.ebay.com/itm/184032965131
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09-07-2021, 12:39 PM | #17 | |
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I have good tools--- I removed the airbox on the right and its just unique angles from there.
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09-07-2021, 01:06 PM | #18 |
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09-07-2021, 01:22 PM | #19 | |
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its removing the box thats key after you remove the strut brace. I just used a very small flat head driver to pop the sensor locking pin out and free the open the plug connection. Then just plug the RC in and push the pins in. Its a bit tedious so a nice light or flash light helps. Its still nowhere near as easy as my M8 which I can remove and install in under 4 to 5 minutes (like the F90) as the S63 boost sensor and intake are simply located.
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09-07-2021, 02:09 PM | #20 |
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Its getting two hands back in there to make the connection is where I struggled for about 20 mins. It was also 98 degrees in the garage at the time
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09-07-2021, 02:10 PM | #21 | |
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The drip of sweat dont help Ill bet. I did my removal and reinstall at 7am.
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09-07-2021, 02:14 PM | #22 |
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I just did a pull for shits and Giggles. Timed it with lap timer. Map 7 in 96 degree north texas afternoon heat on warm tires.
My car is RWD. Launch control off 0-60 3.56s 0-100 7.36s See my timing shots. This is a fair improvement over stock which was 0-60 3.81s 0-100 8.04s Video here https://youtube.com/shorts/UJt5fwZLsxk?feature=share
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