[Dafb8]

Okay so I just replaced my transmission solenoids, filters, and gaskets. Before I started the work my car what crank and run fine but it would not switch out of 3rd gear. After I completed the transmission service work I went to crank the car to warm up the transmission to finish to fill up but my car would not crank. When I insert the key I'll try to crank it all the dash lights come on nice and bright but it will not turn over . I have a push to start. I thought it might have been the key but when I open the door with the car off it will steel beap. I do not know if it's the starter because I cannot locate the starter relay. It could be my fuel pump because I don't hear it humming but I can hear it clicking.

Please help...

[dre0415]

Few tips.
Make sure you have all grounds hooked up
Make sure car is in park aswell. Car will not turn over unless it's in park. Check the cluster to make sure it's all the way in park. If your 100% sure it's in park It's probably a wiring issue. I'd go back and double or triple check all your work.

I'd also recommend getting ista or inpa if you don't have it already to check for codes.

Also the car should crank completely fine with a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay I definitely wouldn't worry about anything else besides the transmission as it all worked before chances are it didn't break if you didn't touch it. These cars almost never start with bad grounds or bad wiring.

[Chapperss]

You`ve probably not put the gear selector switch back properly.

Like Dre said, double check your work. You`ll have been very unfortunate if something else has randomly broken when you`ve been working on something that, if done incorrectly, would stop the car starting...

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Dafb8

Okay so I just replaced my transmission solenoids, filters, and gaskets. Before I started the work my car what crank and run fine but it would not switch out of 3rd gear. After I completed the transmission service work I went to crank the car to warm up the transmission to finish to fill up but my car would not crank...

When you put Remote Key in insert compartment, and press START button WITHOUT pressing Brake Pedal (just turn on ignition), can you then press Brake Pedal and shift from Park to R, N or D? Does Gear selected appear on the Lower display of the Instrument Cluster? (P, R, N, D?)

Since the "NO Crank" issue began after you disconnected the X8500 Connector at the transmission, the first suspect is the PT-CAN wires (pins & sockets) at that X8500 circular connector. If the "Gear Light" LED beside the shift lever changes when Lever is moved (as it should), BUT the display of gear selected on lower Instrument Cluster does NOT move, then the CAS Module does NOT receive the P/N gear position needed to allow activation of the Starter, and there is NO Crank/ No Starter Activation (KL50) by CAS.

If you post back, please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George

[Dafb8]

The last seven digits of my VIN number are 06PT1772

[Dafb8]

Thank you all for the help. I cycle through the gears and the indication light on the clutch moves with it. When I put the key in and try to start it this time it gave me a gear on the dash, which was new. I'm suspecting I might have a ground problem but I'm not sure I had a guy come and run the codes but he said he couldn't read the computer that far I don't know if there was a miscommunication between his reader and the car or what. I'm about to go back under it take everything back off put the old solenoids on and see if I can get back to where I was before I tried the repair.

[Dafb8]

Po700
u11of
These are the major codes that it gave

[Dafb8]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

When you put Remote Key in insert compartment, and press START button WITHOUT pressing Brake Pedal (just turn on ignition), can you then press Brake Pedal and shift from Park to R, N or D? Does Gear selected appear on the Lower display of the Instrument Cluster? (P, R, N, D?)

Since the "NO Crank" issue began after you disconnected the X8500 Connector at the transmission, the first suspect is the PT-CAN wires (pins & sockets) at that X8500 circular connector. If the "Gear Light" LED beside the shift lever changes when Lever is moved (as it should), BUT the display of gear selected on lower Instrument Cluster does NOT move, then the CAS Module does NOT receive the P/N gear position needed to allow activation of the Starter, and there is NO Crank/ No Starter Activation (KL50) by CAS.

If you post back, please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN.
George

^^^^↑^^
I apologize I'm new to this still trying to figure it out

[Dafb8]

And I don't know if this had anything to do with it but just to be transparent with everybody I cleaned that black piece that connects to the top of the solenoids off with throttle body cleaner to try to get some of the oil out of certain areas

[gbalthrop]

Check fuse F06 which supplies power to the Transmission Module (EGS). Check the large round X8500 connector on the upper-left of rear of transmission for proper connection.

If Starter does NOT turn/crank engine when START button is pressed with foot on brake, then since you just disconnected the Transmission connector (I presume ;-) to work on transmission, the first suspect is the Bus (communication) wiring that tells the CAS Module that the Transmission is either in P or N. Like a Lawn Tractor, that is a "Safety Switch" to prevent the engine from being started when in any other gear than P or N. SAME for Brake being pressed -- signal to CAS from Brake Light Switch.

The Instrument Cluster "Gear Selected" display (NOT the LED beside the shifter) is based upon the "PT-CAN Bus" signal that also is received by the CAS Module, so if you do NOT have INPA or something that can display LIVE DATA from the CAS Module that would indicate the CAS Module is receiving a P/N signal, the next best thing is the Lower Cluster Display.

NOBODY here is "like a genius" who knows it all, although some may mistakenly "think" they do. So don't be afraid to assess what you know & what you DON'T KNOW, and take the time to develop more correct CONCEPTS of how various systems work.

Your P0700 Code indicates a communication fault with the transmission. That generic "P-code" is consistent with a PT-CAN communication error due to improper X8500 connection. That is the LARGE, round connector on upper-right of rear of transmission. An issue INSIDE the transmission would NOT cause the Starter NOT to crank the engine. Do a visual check of X8500 FIRST, and make sure connector is firmly/ properly attached.

Then if still no Starter Crank, repeat P,R,N,D shift lever movement while watching for correct gear selection display on lower Instrument Cluster, put it in Park, confirm that "P" is displayed on lower cluster, and try to start. If NO crank, put selector in "N" and try.

Please let us know what you find, and what Scan Tool/ Diagnostic Software you have available. Also please check your Last-7 VIN, as "6PT1772" is NOT a valid entry according to ISTA.
George

[Dafb8]

Update
I think it might have been the solenoid that I put in were faulty. I ordered them online. When I took them out and put my old solenoids back in it started right up. So at this point I'm guessing I just have to get them from a more reputable dealer I ordered them from Amazon.

[Dafb8]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Check fuse F06 which supplies power to the Transmission Module (EGS). Check the large round X8500 connector on the upper-left of rear of transmission for proper connection.

If Starter does NOT turn/crank engine when START button is pressed with foot on brake, then since you just disconnected the Transmission connector (I presume ;-) to work on transmission, the first suspect is the Bus (communication) wiring that tells the CAS Module that the Transmission is either in P or N. Like a Lawn Tractor, that is a "Safety Switch" to prevent the engine from being started when in any other gear than P or N. SAME for Brake being pressed -- signal to CAS from Brake Light Switch.

The Instrument Cluster "Gear Selected" display (NOT the LED beside the shifter) is based upon the "PT-CAN Bus" signal that also is received by the CAS Module, so if you do NOT have INPA or something that can display LIVE DATA from the CAS Module that would indicate the CAS Module is receiving a P/N signal, the next best thing is the Lower Cluster Display.

NOBODY here is "like a genius" who knows it all, although some may mistakenly "think" they do. So don't be afraid to assess what you know & what you DON'T KNOW, and take the time to develop more correct CONCEPTS of how various systems work.

Your P0700 Code indicates a communication fault with the transmission. That generic "P-code" is consistent with a PT-CAN communication error due to improper X8500 connection. That is the LARGE, round connector on upper-right of rear of transmission. An issue INSIDE the transmission would NOT cause the Starter NOT to crank the engine. Do a visual check of X8500 FIRST, and make sure connector is firmly/ properly attached.

Then if still no Starter Crank, repeat P,R,N,D shift lever movement while watching for correct gear selection display on lower Instrument Cluster, put it in Park, confirm that "P" is displayed on lower cluster, and try to start. If NO crank, put selector in "N" and try.

Please let us know what you find, and what Scan Tool/ Diagnostic Software you have available. Also please check your Last-7 VIN, as "6PT1772" is NOT a valid entry according to ISTA.
George

The last seven of my VIN is 06PT1772 forgot to add the zero

[Dafb8]

And once again thanks for all the knowledge I'm definitely soaking everything in that you guys are saying

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Dafb8

The last seven of my VIN is 06PT1772 forgot to add the zero

That's the SAME thing you posted in Post #5, and that's (count 'em ;-) EIGHT (8) Characters. Your VIN is found on your bottom-left
of windshield, Driver Door B-pillar, Right-front Strut Tower, and on your Registration. Just the last-7 Characters please.

But BEFORE you do that, check fuse F6 per the attached Bentley Manual Screenprints, and if that is intact, check the X8500
Connector at the Transmission, per attached ISTA ScreenPrint.
George

[mainbearing]

Right, order from a reputable seller like the CTSC. I think there are a few different sets of solenoids, make sure you get the correct one by using the main parts list number from your transmission.

http://thectsc.com/

Originally Posted by Dafb8

Update
I think it might have been the solenoid that I put in were faulty. I ordered them online. When I took them out and put my old solenoids back in it started right up. So at this point I'm guessing I just have to get them from a more reputable dealer I ordered them from Amazon.

[Blue_BMW]

Hello everyone, tried to start a new threat for No crank no Start, but not getting much luck on replies. Hoping that someone would see it here.

__________________________________________________ _____________

I'll try to keep it 32. My 2007 328xi (E90). Has been having stating issues for about a year now. It went from Slow start (crank a few times) to currently no crank no start. Please let me know if you have any Ideas/solutions on what the issue could be.

What I think the issue is
I think that one of the modules is faulty but Im not familiar with INPA or ISTA to test or code a new one if needed.

Issue Description
Stage 1. A year ago I noticed that the headlights an break lights would stay on after the car was turned off.

Stage 2. Shortly after a 'clicking/buzzing' sound started coming from the fuse box location (when key fib was entered or the push start button was pressed).

Stage 3. My battery ended up dying on me (car had to be jump started multiple times, I think this is what damaged the module). So a new compatible Battery (not sure if it was registered), alternator and starter (for good measure) was installed.

Stage 4. Car started having the same issues as Stage 2 but way more noticible. Headlights and Breaklight would stay on more often and the clicking sound on the fuse box became more constant. It would also crank for a longer time before eventually starting.

Stage 5. For about a week the car would only start when jump started (never directly on the battery) only on the jump points under the hood. This happened after I drove the car for 3hrs (the electronics went crazy and the car did not start on its own after that)

Stage 6: Car wont Crank or start, not even with a jump. Also the car takes multiple tries to engage with the key. When it finally recognizes that the key is in, I can get the radio, fan, other electronics working. but the car Locks/unlocks constantly.

What is on the Dash
I think im getting the cluster dash lights. (Break, 4x4, etc..) had this before but it went away once I drove for a bit.

Attempted Solution
1. New Battery, Starter, Alternator
2. Replaced the Contact relay on the fuse box (top-right)
3. Checked voltage on battery, alternator, jumping points, engine block, starter and got 12 volts when car is off (14 volts when on)
4. Made sure that the engine block is getting voltage, the grounding straps are not perfect but the engine is still getting the 12V. Connected the negative terminal to the engine block an auxiliary ground and still no luck.
5. Replaced spark plugs and ignition coils (all OEM Bosh)

Thank you for your help, let me know if further details are needed.

[NorthernDancer]

I've written this so many times. Well known problem is a bad flat mesh ground cable very low on drivers side likely between starter motor and body ground.

[Blue_BMW]

Originally Posted by NorthernDancer

I've written this so many times. Well known problem is a bad flat mesh ground cable very low on drivers side likely between starter motor and body ground.

@NorthernDancer

I checks the voltage on the engine block and it was good (12vots).

Also added an extra ground from the negative point under the hood to the engine block and the car still would not start.

Are you sure it can still be a grounding cable?

[Blue_BMW]

Could someone please assist with the issue described above?