[i7iQs]

Hello, I've tried many forums and Facebook and still don't get much help..
so i have a BMW 320D PRE LCI, 2006 (m47n2) uk.
my problem is that i get little heat on the passenger side and freezing cold on drivers side.
I've changed my thermostat(Circoli) and water pump(Circoli) last April thinking it was maybe my thermostat stuck open... didn't resolve the problem.
I've blanked the egr+cooler off and installed a new radiator too.
I've change the coolant, back flushed the heater matrix, and checked the blend doors to see if they're moving when spinning the dual climate control dials which they were moving.
I went into the hidden menu to check the coolant temperature and it stay around 86 - 89 °C.
I've tried to do the 12m bleed procedure on my car but it doesn't work..., I'm not sure if my car has the electric water pump or not but I've done the steps correct and get nothing.
i took my friends car out earlier he has exact same car and his vents were blowing hot air from 45°C.
so i am really lost on what to try next.
please give me some other advice what to try because its cold over here in the uk, thanks
will upload links to videos taken on temperature.

[P14kle]

Dont use Circoli stats.... Absolute trash!!. I had to swap out one after only 1 weeks use as it had failed and stuck open!!. Only use genuine BMW stats as all aftermarket ones seem to be inferior quality.

Electric water pump not fitted to your car either..

[gbalthrop]

As you appear to know, you SHOULD get heat with 70+C coolant temp. However, that requires actual coolant flow THROUGH
the Heater Matrix, AND direction of cabin air THROUGH the hot heater matrix. IF the "Hidden Menu 7.00" readout shown on your
Instrument cluster is correct (confirm with Infrared thermometer aimed at ECTS location), then the FIRST thing to check is that the
"Water Valve" (Y4a) is open.

Attached is an ISTA ScreenPrint of the Water Valve wiring diagram (SSP) and the Location of the Valve (Y4a). That is a simple Solenoid
Valve which opens or closes by application of 12V+ to Pin #1, Yellow/Brown wire, and Ground to Pin#2, Brown wire.
Also attached is screenprint of SAME circuit with "Connector View" of X85, the Two-pin connector at the Water Valve.

If Water Valve is opening to allow coolant flow, then either the heater matrix is clogged, preventing flow, OR the "Mixed Air Flaps"
which direct cabin air through the heater matrix, or NOT when A/C required, may have issues. INPA or ISTA would allow quick diagnosis
of Water Valve & Flap Positions/ movement, but you CAN do it with nothing more than a multimeter and some patch cables IF you
understand the system.
George

[i7iQs]

Originally Posted by P14kle

Dont use Circoli stats.... Absolute trash!!. I had to swap out one after only 1 weeks use as it had failed and stuck open!!. Only use genuine BMW stats as all aftermarket ones seem to be inferior quality.

Electric water pump not fitted to your car either..

it must be working though due to getting heat from passenger side vents, i will not use circoli in future, thank you for feedback

[i7iQs]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

As you appear to know, you SHOULD get heat with 70+C coolant temp. However, that requires actual coolant flow THROUGH
the Heater Matrix, AND direction of cabin air THROUGH the hot heater matrix. IF the "Hidden Menu 7.00" readout shown on your
Instrument cluster is correct (confirm with Infrared thermometer aimed at ECTS location), then the FIRST thing to check is that the
"Water Valve" (Y4a) is open.

Attached is an ISTA ScreenPrint of the Water Valve wiring diagram (SSP) and the Location of the Valve (Y4a). That is a simple Solenoid
Valve which opens or closes by application of 12V+ to Pin #1, Yellow/Brown wire, and Ground to Pin#2, Brown wire.
Also attached is screenprint of SAME circuit with "Connector View" of X85, the Two-pin connector at the Water Valve.

If Water Valve is opening to allow coolant flow, then either the heater matrix is clogged, preventing flow, OR the "Mixed Air Flaps"
which direct cabin air through the heater matrix, or NOT when A/C required, may have issues. INPA or ISTA would allow quick diagnosis
of Water Valve & Flap Positions/ movement, but you CAN do it with nothing more than a multimeter and some patch cables IF you
understand the system.
George

hi George, thanks for the reply.

i know i have the m47n2 engine but the picture u provided is different to i mine only have one soliniod thing on my water valave not 2 like in the picture and it has an impella inside of it. i even disconnected the wire so its always open but still get 1 side hot and 1 side cold, i can take a pic of engine bay if u want to see

[Captain Buumer]

Isn't that auxilliary circulation pump?

There is a rest button in climate control and when engine is warm but turned off it activates that pump to recirculate coolant to keep cabin warm.

I've used it when waiting for someone and it's too cold outside (engine off) but it has lousy brushes that don't last very long.

Looks like your center flaps(or one of the flaps) are stuck in one position. BMW uses some nasty black stuff to seal flaps in closed position and in colder period it is not as elastic and gets stuck = flaps that control airflow cannot control the flap.

I had similar problem where it would not produce hot even thou engine was 88C (it was showing a flap error). Only blowing slightly warm from both sides.

The flap motor was not the problem as i could not even move the flap with screwdriver (while motor was removed).
I just scraped off some of the "sealant/glue" and then flap motor could open/close on it's own.

It's rather simple procedure, removing center trim to gain access to center flap. Then you can visually see them work or not working.
Since only one side is blowing warm air i would suspect flaps problem.



In my case the second flap from the left was problematic that should allow air to pass through the hot interior radiator.

[i7iQs]

Originally Posted by Captain Buumer

Isn't that auxilliary circulation pump?

There is a rest button in climate control and when engine is warm but turned off it activates that pump to recirculate coolant to keep cabin warm.

I've used it when waiting for someone and it's too cold outside (engine off) but it has lousy brushes that don't last very long.

Looks like your center flaps(or one of the flaps) are stuck in one position. BMW uses some nasty black stuff to seal flaps in closed position and in colder period it is not as elastic and gets stuck = flaps that control airflow cannot control the flap.

I had similar problem where it would not produce hot even thou engine was 88C (it was showing a flap error). Only blowing slightly warm from both sides.

The flap motor was not the problem as i could not even move the flap with screwdriver (while motor was removed).
I just scraped off some of the "sealant/glue" and then flap motor could open/close on it's own.

It's rather simple procedure, removing center trim to gain access to center flap. Then you can visually see them work or not working.
Since only one side is blowing warm air i would suspect flaps problem.



In my case the second flap from the left was problematic that should allow air to pass through the hot interior radiator.

ive bought a K+DCAN cable so i will set it all up tomoz on laptop and will check all flaps on drivers side.

thank you for your info!

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by i7iQs

ive bought a K+DCAN cable so i will set it all up tomoz on laptop and will check all flaps on drivers side...

INPA can show you Flap Positions:
INPA > IHKA (Body | Air Conditioning / Control Panel) > F5 Status > F4 Flap Positions

It also allows you to Control (Attempt to Control ;-) the Water Valve:
INPA > JBE/JBBF > F6 Activations > F4 Water Valve > F3/F4 On/OFF

Those are the Menu Sequences for my 3/2007 build 328xi E91 with "IHKA87" Climate Control Module, and with "JBBF87" JBE/JBBF Module. In each case, you have to connect to the Module which controls the device to be monitored or activated. The Flap Motors are connected to/controlled by the IHKA Module, and the Water Valve is connected to/controlled by the JBE/JBBF Module.

If you have issues with INPA setup, there are some clues in the attached pdf: "INPA Tutorial Quickstart", which also shows how to quickly use "Functional Jobs" to get quick overview of Modules and Fault Codes, how to Setup your K+DCAN Cable, and how to save ScreenPrints for future reference.
George

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by i7iQs

hi George, thanks for the reply.

i know i have the m47n2 engine but the picture u provided is different to i mine only have one soliniod thing on my water valave not 2 like in the picture and it has an impella inside of it. i even disconnected the wire so its always open but still get 1 side hot and 1 side cold, i can take a pic of engine bay if u want to see

this is auxiliary circ pump, and if you didn't replaced it, it is usually already not working, due electric motor brushes wear

[i7iQs]

Originally Posted by ptpending

this is auxiliary circ pump, and if you didn't replaced it, it is usually already not working, due electric motor brushes wear

Originally Posted by ptpending

this is auxiliary circ pump, and if you didn't replaced it, it is usually already not working, due electric motor brushes wear

Ahh okay, would that cause my drivers side to not blow heat?. Have a cable coming today so will try get a laptop today too as I don't have one and will update

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by i7iQs

Ahh okay, would that cause my drivers side to not blow heat?. Have a cable coming today so will try get a laptop today too as I don't have one and will update

it helps only on idle to bring more heat
but it also can help when you do bleeding

[i7iQs]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

INPA can show you Flap Positions:
INPA > IHKA (Body | Air Conditioning / Control Panel) > F5 Status > F4 Flap Positions

It also allows you to Control (Attempt to Control ;-) the Water Valve:
INPA > JBE/JBBF > F6 Activations > F4 Water Valve > F3/F4 On/OFF

Those are the Menu Sequences for my 3/2007 build 328xi E91 with "IHKA87" Climate Control Module, and with "JBBF87" JBE/JBBF Module. In each case, you have to connect to the Module which controls the device to be monitored or activated. The Flap Motors are connected to/controlled by the IHKA Module, and the Water Valve is connected to/controlled by the JBE/JBBF Module.

If you have issues with INPA setup, there are some clues in the attached pdf: "INPA Tutorial Quickstart", which also shows how to quickly use "Functional Jobs" to get quick overview of Modules and Fault Codes, how to Setup your K+DCAN Cable, and how to save ScreenPrints for future reference.
George

Originally Posted by ptpending

it helps only on idle to bring more heat
but it also can help when you do bleeding

Hi guys, I'm on inpa rn playing around. Can you check out this video please.

https://youtube.com/shorts/S07g5r36FIY?feature=share

Anything you need me to try on inpa or ista I can do thanks

I think it's the stepper motor on the dash video below.

https://youtube.com/shorts/1RMybre68RQ?feature=share

[gerrarditto]

I had the same issue, all I had to do was to replace the heater. You don't have to take down the entire dash, the steering column is enough.

[ptpending]

Originally Posted by gerrarditto

I had the same issue, all I had to do was to replace the heater. You don't have to take down the entire dash, the steering column is enough.

replace heater core you mean, because for whole heater dashboard should be removed definitely

[gerrarditto]

Originally Posted by ptpending

replace heater core you mean, because for whole heater dashboard should be removed definitely

Originally Posted by ptpending

replace heater core you mean, because for whole heater dashboard should be removed definitely

Heater core, yes!

But you don't have to remove the whole dash, as I said. I was able to replace it by removing the steering column, had just enough space to reach it.