[clifftr]

I have been researching about how to ceramic coat my incoming vehicle. I found that Adam's Graphene Ceramic coat seems pretty legit. My question is more about the preparation of the vehicle. Coating seems pretty straightforward. Here is my understanding on each step:

1) Wash
2) Chemical Decontamination (Iron Remover)
3) Clay bar
4) Paint Correction: here is where I get stuck. It is a brand new vehicle. Let's say even if I have to do it, should I use a compound or a polish? Do I have to paint correct the whole car, or areas that need correction? Do I have to use a compound and then a polish? I am still trying to figure this one out. I will appreciate any insights..
5) Ceramic Prep alcohol based solution
6) Ceramic Coating

[Nettles]

Your steps are accurate. When it comes to correction it’s technically up to you on how you want to correct. High chance just a simple one step polish will be more than enough for you. The paint being 100% free of defects falls on the side of preference and isn’t mandatory.

[CCM11285]

I would go with a synthetic clay towel for the mechanical decon. After inspecting mine before polish, I deemed it only necessary to proceed with a finishing polish. I used LVR 367 Ice with lake country 3" and 5" orange sdo pads for most of the vehicle and 2" rupes white polishing pads for the small areas. Don't polish your headlights, just chemical decon, prep, and coat. The taillights can be polished though if you wish. I would also highly suggest that you instruct the dealer to not wash it after their prep work.
After drying, use forced air to blow out any water from the trims and crevices. You don't want to be drawing out water when you're polishing near those areas.

[Frank_Zuccarini]

I have DIY'd several vehicles with ceramic coating. It is easy, and REALLY makes it easier to keep your car clean.

In my opinion, if you are happy with the absence or presence of swirls on your car, as received, you can skip the paint correction step.

Don't forget to coat the wheels. If I did only one part of me car, it would be the wheels. The ceramic coating hugely reduces the accumulation of brake dust.

And as mentioned above, do not polish your headlights. They have a UV protective coating which you would remove in polishing.

Best of luck................... Frank

[themnmd]

Originally Posted by Nettles

Your steps are accurate. When it comes to correction it's technically up to you on how you want to correct. High chance just a simple one step polish will be more than enough for you. The paint being 100% free of defects falls on the side of preference and isn't mandatory.

How comfortable are you doing the polishing? Unlikely that it would need compound, Unless there are deeper scratches. Look closely under bright lights from different angles and decide how much correction you think you need

[clifftr]

I have not done any polishing before. So I am kind of hesitant. Do you guys know if cars come fully wrapped from Germany? If that's the case, I can simply tell the dealer not to wash the vehicle, I can unwrap and ceramic coat it. Any thoughts?

[ultrared93]

Originally Posted by clifftr

I have not done any polishing before. So I am kind of hesitant. Do you guys know if cars come fully wrapped from Germany? If that's the case, I can simply tell the dealer not to wash the vehicle, I can unwrap and ceramic coat it. Any thoughts?

First, no car comes from the factory without some defects in the paint. Those defects are covered by the factory wrap. Removing an adhesive wrap often causes additional defects. In addition, the car may leave the factory with unknown substances on the paint, so just unwrapping and coating may produce variable coating bonding which will affect durability.

In my case, the CA knew I was very particular and had the prep team remove the wrap but do nothing else to the exterior. All in all, the paint was in good shape, but with a few marks where the prep team got a grip on the corner of the wrap pieces. I decided to use a finishing polish and pads on the whole car and only resorted to more abrasive steps to remove the few marks left from removing the adhesive wrap. This produced the level of gloss I was after.

Major considerations are how tolerant you are of minor paint flaws and how experienced you are in paint correction. Since you have little to no experience using a DA or rotary polisher, I would not attempt a DIY ceramic or graphene coating yourself.

[clifftr]

Originally Posted by ultrared93

First, no car comes from the factory without some defects in the paint. Those defects are covered by the factory wrap. Removing an adhesive wrap often causes additional defects. In addition, the car may leave the factory with unknown substances on the paint, so just unwrapping and coating may produce variable coating bonding which will affect durability.

In my case, the CA knew I was very particular and had the prep team remove the wrap but do nothing else to the exterior. All in all, the paint was in good shape, but with a few marks where the prep team got a grip on the corner of the wrap pieces. I decided to use a finishing polish and pads on the whole car and only resorted to more abrasive steps to remove the few marks left from removing the adhesive wrap. This produced the level of gloss I was after.

Major considerations are how tolerant you are of minor paint flaws and how experienced you are in paint correction. Since you have little to no experience using a DA or rotary polisher, I would not attempt a DIY ceramic or graphene coating yourself.

Thanks. Did you still decontaminate a new car with iron and clay bar?

[ultrared93]

Originally Posted by clifftr

Thanks. Did you still decontaminate a new car with iron and clay bar?

Yes. You want the clear coat to be totally free of any type of contaminants. I actually use a clay mitt and find it easier, faster and safer than using a clay bar.

[KyK]

A clay bar will take you forever. I recommend you get a mitt as everyone says.

For polishing on a brand new car you can probably get around 85-90% correction with a Rupes yellow pad and Sonax perfect finish for an easy one step. Also if you're using a DA polisher burning through the paint is pretty hard, but I'd watch some videos from AMMO NYC and Obsessed Garage. And don't forget to keep your pads clean or change them out as you work bc if it's not clean you'll be doing more damage than correcting. I'd also recommend taping off adjacent panels, trim, and lights as it's your first time. It also makes it so you don't have to pick polish out of those crevices.