[tranquility]

Or must it be replaced? It would be a major pita and since it's a 2 door garage both would have to be replaced or else it'll look weird.

I'm thinking maybe a metal bar can be affixed across the top but have no idea if it's feasible. Anyway, what kind of stupid cheap door does that? I think that door is original so it's about 40 years old but still.

[Maestro]

Yes that can be fixed with some glue and piece of wood or metal behind it too reinforce it. You can take that top panel out and just repair it.

[Buug959]

Originally Posted by Maestro

Yes that can be fixed with some glue and piece of wood or metal behind it too reinforce it. You can take that top panel out and just repair it.

Beat me to it.

[sygazelle]

Originally Posted by tranquility

Or must it be replaced? It would be a major pita and since it's a 2 door garage both would have to be replaced or else it'll look weird.

I'm thinking maybe a metal bar can be affixed across the top but have no idea if it's feasible. Anyway, what kind of stupid cheap door does that? I think that door is original so it's about 40 years old but still.

I would try to fix it before spending a bunch of money on two new doors. It's hard to tell from your photo, but the rest of the door looks solid.

I suppose a metal bar would work, but don't underestimate good ol' lumber. For me, I'd try to do this as a DIY project.

First, get the separated pieces put back together with wood glue and proper wood screws.

Then, I'd attach a 24" or so piece of 2x4 or even just 1x4 and center it across the the top of the door and make sure its solidly attached with wood glue and proper wood screws.

Then, I 'd attach the door arm hardware to the newly installed 2x4 or 1x4.

If it was me and that DIY fix didn't work, I'd have a professional garage door guy look at it and give a price to fix it.

Last resort would be new doors unless the existing doors need replacing anyway.

Good luck!

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by Maestro

Yes that can be fixed with some glue and piece of wood or metal behind it too reinforce it. You can take that top panel out and just repair it.

Tx, I'm trying to keep things extremely simple so don't want to dismantle if that can be avoided. So, just glue/nail/affix back the loose wood part, attach a new flat metal or wood piece w screws on all three areas on the T part where the attachment is located (concentrate more on the bottom of the T)? Am I missing anything else?

[Battin4th]

Make sure the door opens/operates easily. i.e. the overhead coil spring is properly tensioned. Not sure why that happened, unless too much weight and the opener pulled it apart. Also assuming no rot or anything. Doubtful, since it's at the top.

[vreihen16]

Something like this (but bigger) probably should have been on that joint for 40 years:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-...-66T/100374961

[freakystyly]

Originally Posted by vreihen16

Something like this (but bigger) probably should have been on that joint for 40 years:

Exactly that...

It was a matter of time before the wood failed. In the future, move the forces somewhere else with hardware like above so the repair doesn't fail a second time. I have a vertical strap that runs the entire length down to the hinge.

[Markr]

I know that you don’t want to dismantle, however, you have problems on both ends of the break, as the stresses on the roller side are also going to be great, so will challenge any repair.

Given that it is sectional, I can see that the wood is a different thickness to the next section. Is the very bottom section the same as the top? - if so, I would be inclined to swap top and bottom, reinforcing the new top, as suggested, before installing and then making good the new bottom to look good, as that won’t take as much stress.

It is inevitable that you will need new doors at some point, therefore, this is an exercise in delaying that until you want to do that.

A good carpenter would be able to make you a new section that would perfectly match.

Also, maybe a good time to reinforce the other door before it fails in the same way, as it will have been subject to the same forces.

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by Markr

I know that you don’t want to dismantle, however, you have problems on both ends of the break, as the stresses on the roller side are also going to be great, so will challenge any repair.

Given that it is sectional, I can see that the wood is a different thickness to the next section. Is the very bottom section the same as the top? - if so, I would be inclined to swap top and bottom, reinforcing the new top, as suggested, before installing and then making good the new bottom to look good, as that won’t take as much stress.

It is inevitable that you will need new doors at some point, therefore, this is an exercise in delaying that until you want to do that.

A good carpenter would be able to make you a new section that would perfectly match.

Also, maybe a good time to reinforce the other door before it fails in the same way, as it will have been subject to the same forces.

Tx for your technical analysis/suggestion, unfortunately it may be too much for my layman brain. I realize that a spring is involved (actually, not clear how it works vis-a-vis the door as I don't see where they are touching) but it's not directly in contact w the top panel so I'm confused why I need to dismantle said panel? I do realize that the hinge bracket on the right may have been damaged due to the break.

I'm hoping and it seems like this door can be repaired so I don't think it's inevitable that it needs to be replaced, at least for another 40 years or so, by which time it would be moot for anyone concerned.

[HappynHealthy]

When you finally have the wood repaired or replaced - get a Liftmaster 8500. It attaches on the side of the door and right to the torsion bar spring. You'all love the openness and taller ceiling with not having that center track mechanism too

[freakystyly]

Not sure if it was mentioned, but if you are planning on DIYing it. Don't mess with garage door springs. That's a general safety rule. It's kind of like a car spring on a shock except a lot bigger and it is twisted instead of compressed... Anyways just be extra careful with that crap.

[HappynHealthy]

Great point about those Springs! Let the expert handle 'em

[tranquility]

Originally Posted by HappynHealthy

When you finally have the wood repaired or replaced - get a Liftmaster 8500. It attaches on the side of the door and right to the torsion bar spring. You'all love the openness and taller ceiling with not having that center track mechanism too

It's just my mom's place. I know about those Liftmasters when I was thinking of getting my own detached house+garage so I can install a lift....I think that's a main reason to get those. Anyway, I don't think my mom's getting a Lambo anytime soon haha.

Originally Posted by freakystyly

Not sure if it was mentioned, but if you are planning on DIYing it. Don't mess with garage door springs. That's a general safety rule. It's kind of like a car spring on a shock except a lot bigger and it is twisted instead of compressed... Anyways just be extra careful with that crap.

Yup, tx, that's why I don't even wanna dismantle anything and just have it fixed right there. I don't even know how that spring contraption works so will definitely leave it alone.