[breezyrc15]

Need advice. PFA.

I’m lowering my car with a height adjustable kit. From what I understand, it is best practice to also install adjustable front tie rod ends and to perform a ride height recalibration.

I understand the need for adjustable tie rod ends as I previously ran lowering springs and then full coilovers and ended up having seized tie rod ends.

However, I don’t understand the ride height recalibration. How is that accomplished on the G80 platform? Is that really necessary? I’ve seen the ride height sensor often get broken during installation of lowering kits but personally I’ve never encountered any suspension or chassis related errors when I lowered my car. The coilovers I had before came with an EDC cancellation kit so that’s probably why.

I’m going from a ’21 RWD M4 to a ‘24 xDrive M4 if that makes any difference.

Thanks all!

[kjx]

Get the M Performance HAS installed at port by BMW and make all of this BMW’s problem. You will also find the warranty accompanying this and the fact that it’s on the vehicle sticker will help with resale over some DIY HAS installation of ambiguous quality (because who knows how any previous owner messed up).

[DO444]

Originally Posted by kjx

Get the M Performance HAS installed at port by BMW and make all of this BMW’s problem. You will also find the warranty accompanying this and the fact that it’s on the vehicle sticker will help with resale over some DIY HAS installation of ambiguous quality (because who knows how any previous owner messed up).

Can’t you just have a dealer do it afterwards?
And this still be BMW’s problem?

[kjx]

Originally Posted by DO444

Can’t you just have a dealer do it afterwards?
And this still be BMW’s problem?

Yes, it will be BMW’s problem but:
- port techs will have a lot of practice doing it right vs. your dealer. I’m sure for example my dealer has never installed an M Perf wing, as huge as they are. My car was the first they had even seen land with the wing at the time I bought it.
- labor cost component will be much, much higher at dealer vs port
- port ensures it’s on your window sticker and creates less hassle in insurance coverage (default vs “specialized parts” coverage). This is also important for anyone who many be leasing to residualize the cost of the part vs. eating it fully upfront and not getting any credit at lease turn in.
- warranty extensions usually apply to car as it was delivered, if that matters to anyone.

Downside of port install (applies to places that tax annually based on MSRP):
- Seattle has a extortionist level of tax based on MSRP as part of tab renewals to fund a light rail system.
- My M4 costs $1200 annually. My X5 costs $1K annually. Yes that’s $2.2k every year (with very minimal drops in the first 5 years). My tabs 10 years back cost $50 a year on a $30K car.

[breezyrc15]

I confirmed with multiple people that no recalibration is needed. The battery should be disconnected during install. The SPL outer tie rod ends are greatly recommended for lowering springs or height adjustable kits. Of course, even with the M performance kit, you will be reducing the life of the struts. I plan on upgrading to KW V3 coilovers with the EDC cancellation kit at 20k miles as I did on my last G82 (I ran the AST springs for 20k miles then did the coilovers). This time, I'm running Cobra Suspensions' HAS with the SPL outer tie rod ends. I'll report back once everything is installed.

[Limegrntaln]

Originally Posted by breezyrc15

I confirmed with multiple people that no recalibration is needed. The battery should be disconnected during install. The SPL outer tie rod ends are greatly recommended for lowering springs or height adjustable kits. Of course, even with the M performance kit, you will be reducing the life of the struts. I plan on upgrading to KW V3 coilovers with the EDC cancellation kit at 20k miles as I did on my last G82 (I ran the AST springs for 20k miles then did the coilovers). This time, I'm running Cobra Suspensions' HAS with the SPL outer tie rod ends. I'll report back once everything is installed.

The only other thing I would caution against, is, there are still shops using the air gun to zip off the strut top nuts. While the proper way is to hold the shock shaft, while using the proper socket.

Its probably not going to be easy to ask the shop to do the install a certain way. Some shops may find it insulting if you question their install process, but, after all, it is your car.

There seems to be a little rash of cars, lately, with leaky struts after installs. I watched my shop do my install, and this is the strut tool they used, before I even knew it was causing issues with spring installs. I would even go so far as to tell them, that you've had install problems in the past, and would just like them to use the proper socket and wrench for the install.

[breezyrc15]

Originally Posted by Limegrntaln

The only other thing I would caution against, is, there are still shops using the air gun to zip off the strut top nuts. While the proper way is to hold the shock shaft, while using the proper socket.

Its probably not going to be easy to ask the shop to do the install a certain way. Some shops may find it insulting if you question their install process, but, after all, it is your car.

There seems to be a little rash of cars, lately, with leaky struts after installs. I watched my shop do my install, and this is the strut tool they used, before I even knew it was causing issues with spring installs. I would even go so far as to tell them, that you've had install problems in the past, and would just like them to use the proper socket and wrench for the install.

Thanks very much for the detailed advice! I will definitely take that into account.
Another point is that if the outer tie rods are not installed correctly, they will rub against the inside of the wheel. That is definitely something to look out for as well!

[Limegrntaln]

Originally Posted by breezyrc15

Thanks very much for the detailed advice! I will definitely take that into account.
Another point is that if the outer tie rods are not installed correctly, they will rub against the inside of the wheel. That is definitely something to look out for as well!

I would try to find a custom suspension shop, or a shop that has experience with BMW track cars. The shop that I went to, when I pulled up, had half a dozen BMW full suspension track cars, outside, stripped out, with roll cages, and a single drivers bucket. I understand that may not be easy to find, unless you live in a more populated area. I had to drive 2 hours, each way to get mine done, but I have 6k miles, since my suspension was installed, and the HAS are all the wat down, max low.

[Chad11491]

If you're taking it to a shop, I highly recommend Alex at A&A Performance in Norcross. They did my car and have done dozens of G8X cars at this point. Their price was fair, and they do it right. They're certified BMW Master techs and their work is great.

[breezyrc15]

I know Alex - great shop and good recommendation.