[alexchvzr]

Hi everybody, I recently bought a 2009 335i twin turbo and I’m in love with the car, but last night after parking the car and turning it off my key didn’t want to come out, I managed to take it out and when I put it back in, the car didn’t want to start, I think I have an electrical power loss because when I open the car with the fob, the ring headlights don’t light up as usual, also the car recognizes it has the key on but when I press the start/stop button the car does nothing, radio and interior lights work but I can’t turn the car on
Can anybody help me?

[bmwbob89]

Check the battery voltage first.

[NZE90]

Get a new battery

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alexchvzr

... recently bought a 2009 335i twin turbo and I’m in love [irrelevant ], but last night after parking the car and turning it off my key didn’t want to come out, I managed to take it out and when I put it back in, the car didn’t want to start...

Welcome to the Forum!
Hope you did NOT use force to remove Remote Key from Insert Compartment. That can break the Insert Compartment Tabs that hold the Remote in place (on either side of the Insert opening). Insert Compartment will NOT release key unless Shift Lever in Park (on AT models) and CAS Module receives Bus signal of that Shift Lever Position.

It takes battery power and Insert Compartment CONNECTION to CAS Module via Ribbon Cable for the Remote to be released when you press it forward. If you had INPA, diagnosis would be quicker/ easier, but we can begin with tests below.

BEFORE throwing part$, please answer following questions:

1) When you open door, the interior lights come on, right? Does Remote Key Lock/Unlock the car? Proper function of Remote Key confirms power to CAS Module. WITHOUT that power, Insert Compartment may NOT function normally to release Remote Key, so do NOT insert key at this time.

2) What is Battery Voltage, measured at Jumpstart Terminals under hood with Multimeter? If LESS than 12.0V, also measure voltage at battery posts in trunk & report BOTH voltage readings.

3) Please report your findings above and do NOT insert Remote Key into insert compartment until power to CAS Module is confirmed.
George

[Serf27]

Check battery voltage.
Do the cluster lights turn on when you try to start it?

[alexchvzr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Welcome to the Forum!
Hope you did NOT use force to remove Remote Key from Insert Compartment. That can break the Insert Compartment Tabs that hold the Remote in place (on either side of the Insert opening). Insert Compartment will NOT release key unless Shift Lever in Park (on AT models) and CAS Module receives Bus signal of that Shift Lever Position.

It takes battery power and Insert Compartment CONNECTION to CAS Module via Ribbon Cable for the Remote to be released when you press it forward. If you had INPA, diagnosis would be quicker/ easier, but we can begin with tests below.

BEFORE throwing part$, please answer following questions:

1) When you open door, the interior lights come on, right? Does Remote Key Lock/Unlock the car? Proper function of Remote Key confirms power to CAS Module. WITHOUT that power, Insert Compartment may NOT function normally to release Remote Key, so do NOT insert key at this time.

2) What is Battery Voltage, measured at Jumpstart Terminals under hood with Multimeter? If LESS than 12.0V, also measure voltage at battery posts in trunk & report BOTH voltage readings.

3) Please report your findings above and do NOT insert Remote Key into insert compartment until power to CAS Module is confirmed.
George

The interior lights turn on when I open the door, the radio turns on, vanity mirrors lights turn on, controller buttons work fine, but when I insert the key it is not detecting it to turn on the car but it detects that the key is in, for example when the key is in and I open the door the cluster warning me that the key is in, but nothing else.
When I push the start/stop button it does nothing even with the key in.
Note that I already changed the battery, I’m thinking that it might be the spot where the key is inserted on, I did inserted and forced the key out many times so idk.
I do have a scanner but it says it is not supported, idk if the ignition has to be on, if that is the case I won’t be able to check it because I can’t turn on the ignition

[alexchvzr]

I was thinking about the recall of the positive wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box, I called bmw and they confirmed me that the car didn’t have that recall, but I think that it might be anyways

[alexchvzr]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Check battery voltage.
Do the cluster lights turn on when you try to start it?

Nothing in the cluster turns on when I try to start the car, it just shows the key warning when I open the door to not forget the key in, other than that the cluster is dead

[alexchvzr]

https://share.icloud.com/photos/097j...HUXdNfSgRswwDA
Quick video of what happens

[alexchvzr]

Note: I read that changing light bulbs or other accessories might mess up things, just fyi I changed one headlight bulb like a week before my car stopped working, if that makes any difference

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alexchvzr

The interior lights turn on when I open the door, the radio turns on, vanity mirrors lights turn on, controller buttons work fine, but when I insert the key it is not detecting it to turn on the car but it detects that the key is in, for example when the key is in and I open the door the cluster warning me that the key is in, but nothing else. When I push the start/stop button it does nothing even with the key in... I did inserted and forced the key out many times so idk...

The CAS Module Activates/ turns on, Terminal 15 (KL15) Ignition. The Insert Compartment into which the Remote Key is inserted is connected to the CAS Module by a Ribbon Cable. When the Key is inserted, it SHOULD "CLICK" and lock in place when fully inserted.

You should NOT be able to easily remove the Key from Insert Compartment by simply pulling it. When Ignition (KL15) is OFF, you SHOULD hear a click when pressing the Key FORWARD (away from you toward Front of Vehicle). The Key should then EASILY release from the Insert compartment when you pull it GENTLY. If AT Shift Lever is NOT in Park position, OR if there is NO power to the CAS or Insert Compartment, you will NOT be able to remove Key without FORCE. You do NOT want to use Force, as THAT can break the "latches" on either side of Insert Compartment that retain Key.

What I understand is happening:
1) With Key inserted, the Instrument Cluster does NOT light when START Button is pressed (WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch). That indicates CAS Module is NOT activating KL15, the Ignition Relay soldered to the JB Fuse Panel Circuit Board.

2) The Radio DOES play when Key is inserted, and I presume the Brake Lights also come on when Brake Pedal pressed. That indicates KLR (Terminal R) is activated by Insert Compartment recognition of the "chip" in the Remote Key. Same for Remote in Insert Compartment warning when you open driver door. That is simply chip recognition.

3) Remote Key battery is NOT an issue here. That ONLY is used to send Radio Waves when Remote Lock/Unlock buttons are pressed.

Questions:
1) When you insert key slowly, does it "CLICK" when fully inserted?
2) When you press key forward (away from you) is there any click? Is there resistance to Removal/ pulling of Key?
3) Do Brake Lights work when Remote is in Insert Compartment & Radio plays?
4) Do Lock/Unlock Buttons on Remote Key work to Lock/Unlock any door?
5) WHAT is the Make/Model of your Scan Tool? Can it connect to Modules OTHER than the DME? Have you EVER connected to, or read Fault Codes IN, the CAS Module with that Scan Tool?

If your scan tool simply reads DME (Engine Module) Faults, it will NOT give us any CAS information. A Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software that can connect to/ read Live Data Inputs to, the CAS Module would show us status of each of the "CAS Terminals", and Hall Sensors related to Insert Compartment.

Rather than spend a LOT of money on new Diagnostic Tools or Shop/Towing fees, let's try to work with what you have upon answers to questions above.

My initial SWAG is that your Insert Compartment needs replacing, or the Ribbon Cable between CAS & Insert Compartment is Damaged. Please provide answers to questions above and we can suggest "Next Steps". ISTA ScreenPrints of Wiring, Component Locations, and Connector View are attached to NEXT POST. I would begin by making sure that the two CAS Fuses, F36 & F55 are intact. If the Remote Key Locks/Unlocks doors, that suggests BOTH are intact.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are 5 ISTA ScreenPrints related to prior post & 2009 335i.
George

[alexchvzr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The CAS Module Activates/ turns on, Terminal 15 (KL15) Ignition. The Insert Compartment into which the Remote Key is inserted is connected to the CAS Module by a Ribbon Cable. When the Key is inserted, it SHOULD "CLICK" and lock in place when fully inserted.

You should NOT be able to easily remove the Key from Insert Compartment by simply pulling it. When Ignition (KL15) is OFF, you SHOULD hear a click when pressing the Key FORWARD (away from you toward Front of Vehicle). The Key should then EASILY release from the Insert compartment when you pull it GENTLY. If AT Shift Lever is NOT in Park position, OR if there is NO power to the CAS or Insert Compartment, you will NOT be able to remove Key without FORCE. You do NOT want to use Force, as THAT can break the "latches" on either side of Insert Compartment that retain Key.

What I understand is happening:
1) With Key inserted, the Instrument Cluster does NOT light when START Button is pressed (WITHOUT pressing Brake/Clutch). That indicates CAS Module is NOT activating KL15, the Ignition Relay soldered to the JB Fuse Panel Circuit Board.

2) The Radio DOES play when Key is inserted, and I presume the Brake Lights also come on when Brake Pedal pressed. That indicates KLR (Terminal R) is activated by Insert Compartment recognition of the "chip" in the Remote Key. Same for Remote in Insert Compartment warning when you open driver door. That is simply chip recognition.

3) Remote Key battery is NOT an issue here. That ONLY is used to send Radio Waves when Remote Lock/Unlock buttons are pressed.

Questions:
1) When you insert key slowly, does it "CLICK" when fully inserted?
2) When you press key forward (away from you) is there any click? Is there resistance to Removal/ pulling of Key?
3) Do Brake Lights work when Remote is in Insert Compartment & Radio plays?
4) Do Lock/Unlock Buttons on Remote Key work to Lock/Unlock any door?
5) WHAT is the Make/Model of your Scan Tool? Can it connect to Modules OTHER than the DME? Have you EVER connected to, or read Fault Codes IN, the CAS Module with that Scan Tool?

If your scan tool simply reads DME (Engine Module) Faults, it will NOT give us any CAS information. A Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software that can connect to/ read Live Data Inputs to, the CAS Module would show us status of each of the "CAS Terminals", and Hall Sensors related to Insert Compartment.

Rather than spend a LOT of money on new Diagnostic Tools or Shop/Towing fees, let's try to work with what you have upon answers to questions above.

My initial SWAG is that your Insert Compartment needs replacing, or the Ribbon Cable between CAS & Insert Compartment is Damaged. Please provide answers to questions above and we can suggest "Next Steps". ISTA ScreenPrints of Wiring, Component Locations, and Connector View are attached to NEXT POST. I would begin by making sure that the two CAS Fuses, F36 & F55 are intact. If the Remote Key Locks/Unlocks doors, that suggests BOTH are intact.
George

1) key does not click when inserted
2) there is a little click when pushed in but the key comes back, like if the click didn’t worked
3) brake lights don’t work at all
4) key remote works perfectly, it lock and unlock both doors, it does open windows when “open” button is pressed and hold
5) I’m not sure about that, what I know is that it is a simple and cheap scanner so it might be obsolete or just read simple things

Another thing that I would like to add is that before this happened, when I pressed the unlock button on the remote, the headlight rings turned on like saying welcome, now when I open the car with the remote this does not happen, the only lights that turn on are the turn signal lights

Thank you for helping me btw

[alexchvzr]

New note: somebody told me that the elv is locked, does anybody know something about this?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alexchvzr

New note: somebody told me that the elv is locked, does anybody know something about this?

And you believe the "Election was Stolen" & "Documents belong to DJT" right?

If this is related to 2009 335i, "somebody" is incorrect. See the attached ScreenPrint from Bentley Manual, page 003-16.
George

[alexchvzr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

And you believe the "Election was Stolen" & "Documents belong to DJT" right?

If this is related to 2009 335i, "somebody" is incorrect. See the attached ScreenPrint from Bentley Manual, page 003-16.
George

Yeah I watched many many videos and I’m sure that’s not my issue, it is weird because when I press start/stop button it does nothing, I have no ignition but I have electrical power, what would you suggest? Also I haven’t seen a video with the same symptoms as mine, I’m tired of this

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alexchvzr

Yeah I watched many many videos and I’m sure that’s not my issue, it is weird because when I press start/stop button it does nothing, I have no ignition but I have electrical power, what would you suggest? Also I haven’t seen a video with the same symptoms as mine, I’m tired of this

First, look at the two "Locking Tabs" on either side of the opening in the Insert Compartment, into which you insert Remote Key. Then, look at Remote key and you will see an "indentation"/ "slot" on either side, about 1/3 of way from front of key to rear. Those "slots" are where the Locking Tabs hold the key in place.

On June 9, in your first post of this thread, you stated: "last night after parking the car and turning it off my key didn’t want to come out, I managed to take it out and when I put it back in, the car didn’t want to start". If that means on night of June 8, the vehicle performed normally, but Remote Key didn't come out after pressing STOP button, and you PULLED Remote Key from Insert Compartment, then PULLING Key out of insert compartment probably broke the mechanism of the "Locking Tabs" that hold Remote Key in place. That is particularly true if you put key back in insert compartment THEN, but "car didn't want to start".

Don't feel like you are the ONLY person who has ever done that. There are MANY posts on the Forums by folks who have PULLED the Remote Key from Insert Compartment when it would NOT release, and broken the tabs. In the 6+ years I have owned mine, I have probably turned ignition OFF with AT Shift lever in D, 3 or 4 times and tried to remove key with NOTHING happening when I press Key FORWARD. THAT is a FEATURE, NOT a BUG!

Fortunately for me, I had read several posts about that "Feature" BEFORE I ever had difficulty removing the Key. I learned from mistakes of OTHERS, that if the key does NOT "Click"/Release when pressed forward, to NOT force it or PULL it. In each instance, I immediately checked Shift Lever Position and shifting to "P" allowed normal key removal.

What I Would Suggest:
1) Don't "beat yourself up" AND don't be afraid to HONESTLY assess WHY the key didn't come out normally on night of 6/8.

2) It's very easy to damage the "locking tabs" of the Insert Compartment, and folks do it frequently, particularly those with "New-to-them" E9x vehicles.
(a) You do NOT want to waste time/money Diagnosing the issue if the answer is OBVIOUS; but ALSO
(b) You do NOT want to waste time/money MISDIAGNOSING/ failing to properly diagnose the issue. If the Remote does NOT "Click" into place, and there is NO "Click" when pressing Key forward to release locking tabs, then your Insert Compartment is MECHANICALLY BROKEN. The question is: WHY did it NOT release Key on 6/8? You don't want to $pend $100 for replacement Insert Compartment/ Ignition Lock/ assembly, only to find that CAS will NOT activate Relay to light Instrument Cluster, OR to Lock Key in place, then you NEED to be as certain as possible WHAT caused key to NOT release on 6/8.

3) What that MEANS: You need to determine WHY on 6/8 the Key did NOT release:
If you KNOW that it was because AT Shift Lever was NOT in Park position, then it's a No-Brainer: Replace the Insert Compartment.

While INPA would show you the STATUS of the Hall Sensor Signals in the Insert Compartment (at least if the JBE & CAS are powered without Instrument Cluster lighting (KL15 active), If you do NOT have a Windows Laptop, and you would have to Pay a $hop to diagnose (Rare Capability these days ;-) I would simply begin by ordering a replacement "Insert Compartment" at a cost of ~ $100 or slightly more with tax & shipping:

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...er-66129172371
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E91-32...h/66129172371/
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...age=1&sortby=r

I can provide ISTA ScreenPrints of procedure for removing existing Insert Compartment, and disconnecting/ inspecting Ribbon Cable connecting Compartment to CAS. Please let us know what you decide.
George

[alexchvzr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

First, look at the two "Locking Tabs" on either side of the opening in the Insert Compartment, into which you insert Remote Key. Then, look at Remote key and you will see an "indentation"/ "slot" on either side, about 1/3 of way from front of key to rear. Those "slots" are where the Locking Tabs hold the key in place.

On June 9, in your first post of this thread, you stated: "last night after parking the car and turning it off my key didn’t want to come out, I managed to take it out and when I put it back in, the car didn’t want to start". If that means on night of June 8, the vehicle performed normally, but Remote Key didn't come out after pressing STOP button, and you PULLED Remote Key from Insert Compartment, then PULLING Key out of insert compartment probably broke the mechanism of the "Locking Tabs" that hold Remote Key in place. That is particularly true if you put key back in insert compartment THEN, but "car didn't want to start".

Don't feel like you are the ONLY person who has ever done that. There are MANY posts on the Forums by folks who have PULLED the Remote Key from Insert Compartment when it would NOT release, and broken the tabs. In the 6+ years I have owned mine, I have probably turned ignition OFF with AT Shift lever in D, 3 or 4 times and tried to remove key with NOTHING happening when I press Key FORWARD. THAT is a FEATURE, NOT a BUG!

Fortunately for me, I had read several posts about that "Feature" BEFORE I ever had difficulty removing the Key. I learned from mistakes of OTHERS, that if the key does NOT "Click"/Release when pressed forward, to NOT force it or PULL it. In each instance, I immediately checked Shift Lever Position and shifting to "P" allowed normal key removal.

What I Would Suggest:
1) Don't "beat yourself up" AND don't be afraid to HONESTLY assess WHY the key didn't come out normally on night of 6/8.

2) It's very easy to damage the "locking tabs" of the Insert Compartment, and folks do it frequently, particularly those with "New-to-them" E9x vehicles.
(a) You do NOT want to waste time/money Diagnosing the issue if the answer is OBVIOUS; but ALSO
(b) You do NOT want to waste time/money MISDIAGNOSING/ failing to properly diagnose the issue. If the Remote does NOT "Click" into place, and there is NO "Click" when pressing Key forward to release locking tabs, then your Insert Compartment is MECHANICALLY BROKEN. The question is: WHY did it NOT release Key on 6/8? You don't want to $pend $100 for replacement Insert Compartment/ Ignition Lock/ assembly, only to find that CAS will NOT activate Relay to light Instrument Cluster, OR to Lock Key in place, then you NEED to be as certain as possible WHAT caused key to NOT release on 6/8.

3) What that MEANS: You need to determine WHY on 6/8 the Key did NOT release:
If you KNOW that it was because AT Shift Lever was NOT in Park position, then it's a No-Brainer: Replace the Insert Compartment.

While INPA would show you the STATUS of the Hall Sensor Signals in the Insert Compartment (at least if the JBE & CAS are powered without Instrument Cluster lighting (KL15 active), If you do NOT have a Windows Laptop, and you would have to Pay a $hop to diagnose (Rare Capability these days ;-) I would simply begin by ordering a replacement "Insert Compartment" at a cost of ~ $100 or slightly more with tax & shipping:

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...er-66129172371
https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E91-32...h/66129172371/
https://www.autohausaz.com/catalog?v...age=1&sortby=r

I can provide ISTA ScreenPrints of procedure for removing existing Insert Compartment, and disconnecting/ inspecting Ribbon Cable connecting Compartment to CAS. Please let us know what you decide.
George

My gear shift has always been on “P”
I’m getting a new insert compartment, can you share if I’m going to need to reprogram something, and the screen prints that you offered? Thanks

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alexchvzr

My gear shift has always been on “P”
I’m getting a new insert compartment, can you share if I’m going to need to reprogram something, and the screen prints that you offered? Thanks

If shift lever was at "P" when Key would NOT release from Insert Compartment, that raises the possibility of lack of power supply from CAS to Insert Compartment or some other fault which MAY prevent the replacement Insert Compartment/ Ignition Lock from operating correctly and the SAME inability to get the key OUT.

Unfortunately, the CAS wiring diagram related to the Insert Compartment does NOT identify the function of the 14 wires in the Ribbon Cable between CAS & Insert Compartment. The RT/Red wire at Pin #1 of that Ribbon Cable suggests that is power supply. Others are UN-identified.

So if you do NOT have access to INPA, or other Scan Tool that can Display ALL CAS Terminal Status, including Status of each of 4 Hall Sensors, then I would simply replace the Insert Compartment, inspecting the Ribbon Cable for any damage to the TINY 14 wires, particularly Pin #1 Red wire, and hope for the best.

If you have a Windows Laptop, I would get Free BimmerGeeks Download of BMW Standard Tools from MEGA (see attached E9x References pdf for link), and spend $30 to $50 for K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop to OBD II Socket. You will then be able to DIAGNOSE & Maintain the vehicle YOURSELF. It's even worth getting used Windows Laptop for ~ $200 from craigslist or such.

I will attach ISTA ScreenPrints for your 2009 335i to NEXT Post. Please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN so I can be sure what I attach is CORRECT for your vehicle.
George

[gbalthrop]

Attached are TWO (2) ISTA ScreenPrints related to Removal of Insert Compartment. I would suggest using
an expired credit card or other thin plastic tool as a PRY. Note the discussion of Ribbon Cable. If you find any damage
to the Ribbon Cable, and need MORE ScreenPrints showing its connections to START Button or CAS Module, please advise.
George

[alexchvzr]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If shift lever was at "P" when Key would NOT release from Insert Compartment, that raises the possibility of lack of power supply from CAS to Insert Compartment or some other fault which MAY prevent the replacement Insert Compartment/ Ignition Lock from operating correctly and the SAME inability to get the key OUT.

Unfortunately, the CAS wiring diagram related to the Insert Compartment does NOT identify the function of the 14 wires in the Ribbon Cable between CAS & Insert Compartment. The RT/Red wire at Pin #1 of that Ribbon Cable suggests that is power supply. Others are UN-identified.

So if you do NOT have access to INPA, or other Scan Tool that can Display ALL CAS Terminal Status, including Status of each of 4 Hall Sensors, then I would simply replace the Insert Compartment, inspecting the Ribbon Cable for any damage to the TINY 14 wires, particularly Pin #1 Red wire, and hope for the best.

If you have a Windows Laptop, I would get Free BimmerGeeks Download of BMW Standard Tools from MEGA (see attached E9x References pdf for link), and spend $30 to $50 for K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop to OBD II Socket. You will then be able to DIAGNOSE & Maintain the vehicle YOURSELF. It's even worth getting used Windows Laptop for ~ $200 from craigslist or such.

I will attach ISTA ScreenPrints for your 2009 335i to NEXT Post. Please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN so I can be sure what I attach is CORRECT for your vehicle.
George

Last digits of VIN: P044615
Can I use a MacBook? That’s what I have atm

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by alexchvzr

Last digits of VIN: P044615
Can I use a MacBook? That’s what I have atm

I have never used a Mac. My $300 Lenovo's do quite well. According to these links you CAN.
https://www.google.com/search?q=run+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

See attached pdf for BimmerGeeks Download Links.
George