[maildhaval@gmail.com]

Hi,
I have been getting the following failure message either when I start the car or turn off the car.

The failure message seems to be random and I am still able to lock and unlock the car without problems. Or atleast the basic checks that I am able to do so.

I have rebooted the iDrive system couple of times but the problem remains.

Has any one encountered such issue ?


Thanks for your help.


Cheers,
Dhaval

[Fast400]

Check the small rectangle plastic at the outside door handle. If it's popped out you may get the error possibly.

[Paladin1]

And counterintuitively, you may need to pull it out a bit before it will close flush. Good idea to check all of them.

[thebishman]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

And counterintuitively, you may need to pull it out a bit before it will close flush. Good idea to check all of them.

Do those tabs just push flush with direct pressure on them? I think I saw one of mine might not be flush, but I don’t have the yellow warning light strangely enough.

[Paladin1]

Originally Posted by thebishman

Do those tabs just push flush with direct pressure on them? I think I saw one of mine might not be flush, but I don’t have the yellow warning light strangely enough.

Correct - if the tab doesn't push in and lock (if unlocked), you need to pull it out about 1/4" and then push it down until flush. Can take a couple of tries. The tabs actually open by pushing them down as well - they'll pop out about 1/8" and are clearly not flush. It's easy to push them down by accident and "unlock" them, but once unlocked you can't just push them down again - you need to go through the "pull to open" procedure. Visually the difference is slight, but you can tell by feel. The tabs actually open enough to get the manual key in (their purpose) - about 1/2", but you don't need to pull it back that far to lock it again.

Flush (normal):



Unlocked (one push):



Open (one pull):



Key access:

[maildhaval@gmail.com]

Thanks all for your input. I have checked all the tabs and can confirm that all are locked properly and are in flush position.

I am not entirely sure if this is the case for the actual failure message but is still possible.

What I have noticed that the failure message is not constant and it is quite rondom when it happens.

The car is getting locked fine, runs fine, no strange sound when locking doors.

The most annoying thing is that the failure message is not descriptive enough and has no reference what so ever in any of the manuals. It would be good if BMW has a manual somewhere which describes all the failure.

Now, I am at the mercy of how quickly the dealer is able to follow this up with the workshop and if needed get the HQ involved to check the software code to really understand where the error originates.

When I mentioned this to the workshop, they were not sure what it meant as this has never occured or atleast reported before in Norway.

Fingers crossed, that this is nothing major and probably just a sensor issue. There has been a lot of snow last few weeks and the roads are sprinkled with salt. I have not managed to wash the car in last two weeks and maybe the sensor is being blocked by salty mud ;-)


I will keep you guys posted with this very annoying failure when the car is only 1 month old.

[maildhaval@gmail.com]

On another note, when I checked the tabs for using the physical key, only the one on the drivers side has the lock. On the other doors, there is a hole with nothing in it.

So it is quite wierd that BMW still decided to have the tabs on all the doors even if the lock is only on one.

Strange !!

[Paladin1]

And you mentioned a reboot, but you didn't indicate if you had done a diagnostic reboot, which sometimes resolves software issues that a normal reboot doesn't. Could well be a hardware problem, but rebooting the OS in diagnostic mode will sometimes save a dealer visit if it's simply a software glitch.

[maildhaval@gmail.com]

I did a normal reboot and not diagnostic reboot. Can you please guide me to how to perform a diagnostic reboot ?

Also note, I have soft close on the door and can be issue with the servo motor as well.

[Paladin1]

A diagnostic reboot is a reboot from diagnostic mode on the car. In the car, standby mode (car off), foot off the brake, press the Start button rapidly 3 times. You'll see a pop-up on the instrument cluster indicating Diagnostic Mode. Then proceed with a normal reboot - hold down the Volume scroll wheel until the main screen goes blank, then release. When the system completely reboots, exit and lock and wait an hour or so (needs to go into sleep mode). Return, unlock and start the car. This often resolves cryptic software issues, and can sometimes take overnight. You also may need to check your personal settings as this may clear some of them as well. A diagnostic reboot is the equivalent of starting in Safe Mode on a PC, and bypasses some running software that can interfere with a normal restart. One tool that every owner should know about, and always worth a try for software issues, discussed multiple times on the forum. Diagnostic Mode has always been available in iDrive software, and has been used in ICE vehicles for resetting the oil change date for example. There are other options you may see available while in DM - do NOT access them or make any other changes.

[freshxdough]

Originally Posted by Paladin1

A diagnostic reboot is a reboot from diagnostic mode on the car. In the car, standby mode (car off), foot off the brake, press the Start button rapidly 3 times. You'll see a pop-up on the instrument cluster indicating Diagnostic Mode. Then proceed with a normal reboot - hold down the Volume scroll wheel until the main screen goes blank, then release. When the system completely reboots, exit and lock and wait an hour or so (needs to go into sleep mode). Return, unlock and start the car. This often resolves cryptic software issues, and can sometimes take overnight. You also may need to check your personal settings as this may clear some of them as well. A diagnostic reboot is the equivalent of starting in Safe Mode on a PC, and bypasses some running software that can interfere with a normal restart. One tool that every owner should know about, and always worth a try for software issues, discussed multiple times on the forum. Diagnostic Mode has always been available in iDrive software, and has been used in ICE vehicles for resetting the oil change date for example. There are other options you may see available while in DM - do NOT access them or make any other changes.

For iDrive 8 cars and above you need to hold the volume knob for 70 second. Two full reboots. And being in diagnostic mode doesn’t matter so long as the car Is on. A 30 second reboot will be sufficient for most things like a Bluetooth restart but 70 seconds is the proper full HUH reboot.

[javapro]

Originally Posted by freshxdough

For iDrive 8 cars and above you need to hold the volume knob for 70 second. Two full reboots. And being in diagnostic mode doesn’t matter so long as the car Is on. A 30 second reboot will be sufficient for most things like a Bluetooth restart but 70 seconds is the proper full HUH reboot.

No, diagnostic mode reboot resolves some issues that regular reboot, either 30 or 70 second one, won’t. I know this from my personal experience.

[LVBMW]

Originally Posted by javapro

No, diagnostic mode reboot resolves some issues that regular reboot, either 30 or 70 second one, won’t. I know this from my personal experience.

I think I’m with freshxdough on this one since he’s a BMW master technician.