[Lauren_95]

The clutch on my 1 series of making a clicking / banging noice when pressed, it’s worse when sitting in traffic constantly lifting it and pressing it, I can also feel it clicking under my foot.

I have taken it back to BMW and they have replaced the master clutch cylinder however this has made no difference.

Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what it could be?

[RockCrusher]

Originally Posted by Lauren_95

The clutch on my 1 series of making a clicking / banging noice when pressed, it’s worse when sitting in traffic constantly lifting it and pressing it, I can also feel it clicking under my foot.

I have taken it back to BMW and they have replaced the master clutch cylinder however this has made no difference.

Has anyone else experienced this or have any ideas what it could be?

I can only speak in general terms but there is almost certainly a problem with the clutch linkage. This covers from where the clutch pedal pivots to where the clutch master cylinder is to beyond that to what linkage is in the bell housing.

Yes, pretty general terms.

For specifics a real effort needs to be made to inspect the clutch linkage -- the linkage under the dash at first.

This involves the tech giving the linkage hardware a wiggle test looking for any abnormal movement/excessive play.

Then the tech would observe the linkage with a helper working the clutch pedal through its full range of motion.

The clutch pedal/arm probably works at least two switches. One for the cruise control disable switch and the engine start safety interlock switch.

While I had a car in which the clutch pedal engine start safety interlock switch went bad (intermittently bad) and a brake light switch which also went bad neither one made any noise. But if the switch is loose/out of position it could make noise. ' course, the tech would observe the switches while the pedal was being pressed down then released.

Then the focus is where the clutch linkage works the clutch master cylinder and any linkage/hardware beyond that to where it disappears into the bell housing.

If no signs of any problems are found with the external/accessible clutch pedal/clutch linkage hardware then the tech would use a mechanic's stethoscope to listen for sounds from inside the bell housing as someone worked the clutch pedal.

Sounds from inside bell housing would almost certainly then require dropping the transmission.

(Actually, the tech would probably give a listen to the bell housing first.)

Bottom line is the symptoms need a professional diagnosis. I dare say just replacing the master cylinder appears to be blindly throwing parts at the symptoms and involved no real diagnosis. That the symptoms were clearly still present after master cylinder replacement is evidence of that.