[fe7565]

Was totally baffled how come I cannot compress the spring of an OEM strut for my F30 ?! I prepped for this for a couple weeks, videos, downloaded the BMW guide. I have one stut assembly out by using the dropping the wheel with a jack method after removing the strut nut. I got the strut shaft and spring out, and separately took out the mount later .

The old OEM bare strut shaft and the new one are the same length, But no matter how creative I get with one of those car parts store loaner spring compressor pairs, I’m still at least 5-6 inches short. The length of the strut shaft Is also about only 6-7 inches.

So I was looking up what the hell could be wrong and there was some mention about the strut being in a neutral mode, which means it’s not fully extended. And other people had difficulties as well, even some car repair shops couldn’t properly compress the spring to this “neutral length” strut shaft.

I’m normally not this enough inept. What am I doing wrong?

[pbonsalb]

The strut shaft has retracted itself into the strut body. Pull it back up.

[fe7565]

I understand. This seems to be by design for the OEM struts (and one other aftermarket brand), which makes it pretty much unique.

The question is, how do I pull it out? It’s not like I can just grab onto it by hand. I can put some nuts on the shaft, but I gather will need some hydraulic power pulling on it.

[pbonsalb]

I have pulled them up by hand. The trick is getting it installed before it drops down again. If you have a spare nut, screw it on and use vise grips on the nut at a handle to pull with.

You typically also need to use a spring compressor on the springs. I understand you trying to do this in car. Sometimes that works and sometimes that does not work.

If you have not done much of this work, beware also that you need to be able to hold the shaft while you tighten it, which often requires a special tool or a go through ratchet/socket or maybe if you are lucky the box end of a wrench will be thin enough and offset enough to fit the recess while you hold the shaft with a smaller wrench or hex or torx.

[V1_ROT8]

A little more info might help us help you. Are you replacing only the strut and reusing the coil spring? Are you trying to do this in the wheel well (asking because it sounds like you opted not to remove the assembly before removing the top mount and spring) or is the whole assembly out of the vehicle? Are the spring pads and strut mount lined up properly?

[fe7565]

Thank you for the comments.

There seems to be two DIY options, at least in the various posts and videos. None of them mentions that the stock strut shaft extends only about halfway. One method is to take out the mount bolts and lower the strut assembly as a whole down and pivot it outside from the wheel well. The other method takes off the strut nut, and lowers the wheel hub with a jack slowly until the spring decompresses. Then you pull the strut out while compressing the shaft so it clears the coil, and then pull out both separately. This is the method I used.


Right now, I have the bare strut and the spring separate, out of the car. The old and the new strut sticks out 7 inches. My other strut assembly that is still intact in the car has a 10” shaft length. So the spring extends the strut shaft by an additional 4 inches. With the OEM strut shaft, it only goes out to 7 inches, because there is a counteracting spring inside that near centers the end of the shaft on its travel span. And this makes the simple spring compressor tool very difficult to use.

Looks like you need at least three (possibly four) of those spring compressors arms that you could loan from the car parts stores. If you got the claws too close to the end of the spring, you will not be able to seat the spring properly.

If you don’t get it close enough, the ends of the spring will deform at an angle that not only keeps the length too much, but also will unable to seat it.

I can pull on the shaft about an inch by hand, so that extends it from 7 inch to 8 inches from the maximum 10”. I will try the combination of three spring compressor clamps, which should allow me to evenly compress, the spring without bulging to one side, and at the same time keep the spring ends from curling.

[V1_ROT8]

So to be clear, you can’t seem to compress the spring enough to get the top hat on? I just swapped springs and struts about 2 weeks ago, but I used shorter Eibach springs. The 2 spring compressors on opposite sides hooked on the second to last coils (1 coil from the top and 1 coil from the bottom) gave plenty of room to get the top hat on. In fact the spring didn’t even contact the upper pad until I slowly removed the compressors.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by V1_ROT8

So to be clear, you can’t seem to compress the spring enough to get the top hat on? I just swapped springs and struts about 2 weeks ago, but I used shorter Eibach springs. The 2 spring compressors on opposite sides hooked on the second to last coils (1 coil from the top and 1 coil from the bottom) gave plenty of room to get the top hat on. In fact the spring didn’t even contact the upper pad until I slowly removed the compressors.

Yes, I cannot compress the spring enough. I will try the one from the top and one from the bottom. I got four compressor arms now, so should be easier, and more even. I got it to the right size earlier, but one of the claws was on the first coil, and it was blocking the top hat (mount) from seating.
I believe the only other strut that is also not extending fully by default is the Eibach.

[fe7565]

Managed to complete one. Used three compressors from Auto Zone, although placement is the crucial step, and two is enough. Measure the shaft when idle ay 7" and 9.5" with the spring on and fully extended.

For the extra labor I had to do, a coil over may have been worth buying or a fully assembled strut. The second strut should be faster, albeit I will take it out in one piece and will compress it inside the garage vs dropping it from the tower with the strut nut off.

By the way, the spring compressor safety pins are a literally life save AND do not use an an impact driver to turn the compressors unless you have it on really slow speed. It could yank the clamps sideways and goodbye....if not for the safety pins.

[fe7565]

Having to do this completely ruined the fun part of this DIY job. This is about a 2-3 hour job that turned out to be a two day job. If I would’ve come across any hint of these potential difficulties, I would’ve been much better prepared.

Having the proper spring compressor is definitely the key, and may wing it without it with luck or more prior experience on using them.

Completely ridiculous looking spring compressor job

[pbonsalb]

Yes, be really careful using the screw type spring compressors. I had a spring get away from me about 20 years ago. It could have killed me if I was on the wrong side of it. Shot about 30’ across the barn. There are really good spring compressors, and I have been temped to spend the money, but the top does not fit most coilovers, which are typically much narrower than stock springs.

Anyway, good luck and be careful. Not one of my favorite jobs. I did my E90 M3 on the car. I had to remove the struts to do my F90 M5.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

Yes, be really careful using the screw type spring compressors. I had a spring get away from me about 20 years ago. It could have killed me if I was on the wrong side of it. Shot about 30’ across the barn. There are really good spring compressors, and I have been temped to spend the money, but the top does not fit most coilovers, which are typically much narrower than stock springs.

Anyway, good luck and be careful. Not one of my favorite jobs. I did my E90 M3 on the car. I had to remove the struts to do my F90 M5.

Yes, the OEM spring for the F30 (and I’m assuming many other similar BMW models) is not parallel, but it’s oval/oblong in overall shape.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by V1_ROT8

So to be clear, you can’t seem to compress the spring enough to get the top hat on? I just swapped springs and struts about 2 weeks ago, but I used shorter Eibach springs. The 2 spring compressors on opposite sides hooked on the second to last coils (1 coil from the top and 1 coil from the bottom) gave plenty of room to get the top hat on. In fact the spring didn’t even contact the upper pad until I slowly removed the compressors.

Thank you. Your comment about the spring compressor clamps placement on the coil helped. Although, on the top, I almost couldn’t remove one end of the compressor clamp after securing the mounting cap, But without placing it near the top coil, I don’t think I would’ve been able to bring the coil down to below 7 inches overall .

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

I have pulled them up by hand. The trick is getting it installed before it drops down again. If you have a spare nut, screw it on and use vise grips on the nut at a handle to pull with.

You typically also need to use a spring compressor on the springs. I understand you trying to do this in car. Sometimes that works and sometimes that does not work.

If you have not done much of this work, beware also that you need to be able to hold the shaft while you tighten it, which often requires a special tool or a go through ratchet/socket or maybe if you are lucky the box end of a wrench will be thin enough and offset enough to fit the recess while you hold the shaft with a smaller wrench or hex or torx.

Thank you for the tips. Luckily I had all the right tools, including the pass-through socket and proper counter hold. It’s just the spring compressor part of the job that was a total disaster.

[StradaRedlands]

I need to do this job sooner rather than later... I previously bought assembled units from Strut Monkey, but this time hoping to use one of these compressors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU
Anyone have experience with this style? Looks like it should work well. Although tempted to try disassembling while compressing it with a jack while mounted.

[NSXR]

Originally Posted by StradaRedlands

I need to do this job sooner rather than later... I previously bought assembled units from Strut Monkey, but this time hoping to use one of these compressors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP2CDJU
Anyone have experience with this style? Looks like it should work well. Although tempted to try disassembling while compressing it with a jack while mounted.

This is the one I used when installing my last set of coil-overs. Worked great, and is very easy to use.

However, knowing I would probably never use it again, I sold it to a friend that does coil-over work regularly. He's the assistant mgr at Plaza Tire, so he knows his way around these things and the impact rules associated with them. On his like 6th or 7th set the compressor came apart on him. He was very lucky.

[zx10guy]

Originally Posted by NSXR

This is the one I used when installing my last set of coil-overs. Worked great, and is very easy to use.

However, knowing I would probably never use it again, I sold it to a friend that does coil-over work regularly. He's the assistant mgr at Plaza Tire, so he knows his way around these things and the impact rules associated with them. On his like 6th or 7th set the compressor came apart on him. He was very lucky.

That's nuts. Was this from doing side work or was he using this at his job? I'm of the mindset that the spring compressors discussed here are ok for DIY use where you're not constantly doing these types of jobs. I would never use them in a professional setting.

When my friend had is repair shop, he got one similar to this which is what I would use in a professional setting.

[V1_ROT8]

fe7565: Glad you got it to work! Now I’m really glad I didn’t have to diss- and re-assemble my factory coil spring/strut. Just curious: is your car xDrive? As everyone knows, xDrive cars sit pretty high from the factory and have pretty tall springs. Wondering if that was part of the issue?

NSXR: Yikes! I guess one advantage to the rental units is that they shouldn’t fail in that fashion.

[NSXR]

Originally Posted by zx10guy

That's nuts. Was this from doing side work or was he using this at his job?

It was just side work for him. I think it just shocked him that it failed catastrophically after only having used it on less than 10 jobs. I mean, I would have felt the same way. Like if it came with a warning like, "you can only use this 4 times and then you need to throw it away" nobody would have batted an eye, but no such warning exists.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by V1_ROT8

fe7565: Glad you got it to work! Now I’m really glad I didn’t have to diss- and re-assemble my factory coil spring/strut. Just curious: is your car xDrive? As everyone knows, xDrive cars sit pretty high from the factory and have pretty tall springs. Wondering if that was part of the issue?

NSXR: Yikes! I guess one advantage to the rental units is that they shouldn’t fail in that fashion.

My car is RWD. The stock strut shaft is 7” idle and about 9.5”-10” when the spring is on it and capped and forced to extend.

Yes, the rental units seem sturdy and safer because of the safety pins. But they can much easier slide sideways as I have found it out when I used an impact wrench.

For these oval springs that do not have nice circular ends would be better in my opinion to use a compressor that compresses the spring from both ends.

[pbonsalb]

Something like the expensive wall mounted machine is the way to go, but the adapters won’t fit many coilovers. Coilover springs are usually 2.375” or 60mm, which is slightly less than 2.375.

My guess on the failed portable compressor kit is that the adapters did not properly fit coilover coils but was used anyway because the spring was still on part of the adapter and seemed to compress fine. It just wasn’t on the string part of the adapter.

I was shopping those portable kits a while ago, and did not buy one because I did not think they would fit the coilover and lowering springs on my cars. I even considered a version of the more expensive wall mounted machine but had the same concern about the adapter sizes.

For now, as in the past 25 years, I mostly use those screw type hook compressors and like the OP find they don’t fit perfectly, that I need to use 3 of them, and that I really want to hook the top of the top coil in order to compress more coils but cannot because I might not be able to remove it once the upper bearing is installed.

Good job persevering on the DIY. For me, my estimate of the required time is usually half what it actually takes, and sometimes the estimated 2 hour jobs take much of a day. I still find satisfaction in the work. My garage is now outfitted almost as well as a small auto shop, but the mechanic (me) does not have that breadth of experience to always do things efficiently and would be fired for working too slowly.

[NSXR]

Originally Posted by pbonsalb

For me, my estimate of the required time is usually half what it actually takes, and sometimes the estimated 2 hour jobs take much of a day. I still find satisfaction in the work. My garage is now outfitted almost as well as a small auto shop, but the mechanic (me) does not have that breadth of experience to always do things efficiently and would be fired for working too slowly.

I resemble this statement, other than finding satisfaction in the work. I think I'm just about done wrenching on cars beyond doing my oil changes and small modifications.