[jusbechillin]

Well Here are some pics of what I did tonight... I really have no idea what I'm doing so I've searched extensivley on the net to try and learn... so far I spent $350 at Home depot (I think I over bought some stuff but I can return what I dont use)...I plan on making two boxes(one on the left and one on the right.. And then Once in the car I want to somehow tie them together using the Amp and a Ferrad capacitor between them... I have a visiual in my head of how I want it and I cant draw so u'll have to kinda watch it go together... So far I started with the left box and here are some pics... feel free to give advice cuz I really dont have a clue what Im doing... I just know its gotta get done!! lol

Pictures one of the trunk before work.. One of the things I bought for the project... One of me being retarded... One of taped area... One of Aluminum foil added after tape... One of first layer of Fiberglass Mat.... One of 2nd layer of FG(Fiberglass) mat .... TO BE CONTINUED!!!..............

[John]

goodluck with your project

[jusbechillin]

I wanted to fiberglass the whole tapped off area, but as you can see from the pics I skipped the back... I couldnt figure out how to work the fiberglass at this angle... DAMN YOU GRAVITY!!! lol... So I think I'll have to make the back from wood and connect it somehow to the other piece... Anyone have any advice??

[bavarian19]

you might want to consider how far back your sub enclosure is going to go... The way it is now, you wont be able to open your 'trap door' to get to the extra storage space...

[jusbechillin]

Oh I am going to trim it down quite a ibt... The trap door will be accessable although I dont see the need to use it anyways... My amp and Ferrad cap will be mounted in front of it... Thank you for pointing it out thoguh.. just in case!

...As far as the back piece I think I can cut some MDF with a jigsaw and connect it with fiberglass and kitty hair(bondo with fiberglass strands)... It helps stop any leaks between the connections as far as I understand...

Wish me luck!

[330i]

You could use 3/4" MDF on the back and fiberglass onto that. Just use something to hold it against the back of the seat. Use MDF where you can on flat area's it's better than the fiberglass.

[330i]

oops i'm to slow to answer

[330i]

No updates?

[jusbechillin]

Nope, no updates... Took a day trip to Sedona today.... Left at 8:30 AM and arrived home at 9PM... First trip in the new car though... MAN its so easy to hit the gas and fly pass traffic.... turbos are great.... I plan on workin on it a little more maybe wednessday... I work until 9 pm monday & tuesday.... This project might take a few weeks.... =0)~

[nyc3r]

looks like fun.. i've only seen this done on tv but the results are all really nice. the key is to finish it nicely and top it off with cool paint job.

[RaptorKTM]

with a car with rear folding seats i wouldnt design it like that

[MMakoto]

this is something i wanna do to my e92 as well, but have no clue on how to do it. when u finish this job, post a DIY. good luck on the job. oh yea, do u have the navi in ur car? if yes, u gonna keep the stock cd player or upgrade it?

[longtran]

you look like ///Matt keep us updated.

[330i]

I'm doing the same thing in my chicks car and if you want to put golf clubs in the back all the time and be able to open the armrest area to the bass to flow into the cab thats the only place subs will fit.

Are you doing 10's or 12's?

[jusbechillin]

I dont really care about the whole rear folding seat deal... Also I've heard the cab is sealed from the trunk pretty well.To let the bass into the cab I plan on cutting maybe two small ports underneath the carpeting on the rear deck.. Trying to keep the stock look of coarse..

No I dont have Navi... Yes I plan on keeping the stock head unit (just trying to add a little low end... The highs/mids sound pretty good..and it's a lease) ..

Its going to be two 10's...

Plan on getting a couple hours in tomorrow.. Ill post an update if I do!

[ward]

you seem to be missing the most important tool in auto repair BEER!


looks interesting, I definetly admire the amount of work you're putting in

[jusbechillin]

First of all... Getting the air bubbles out of these funky curves is madening!! After doing the 3rd layer I jumped on the net and searched for ideas.... I found a sight that said they cut the mat into 2-3" strips and then ripped em up (no exact science).. SO I tried it and it was SOOO much easier! bubbles are easier to get out cuz they dont have far to go(2-3").. AND it made things quicker... As far as applying the resin... You cant mix much up at one time.. Ive found that 4 ounces of resin and 56 drops of hardener is about the most I can do at once... When applying the resin it seems that if you dont keep moving fast until you have a COMPLETE layer done, then the edge you left for a little too long hardens just enough that when you get back to it its too stiff to push flat against your surface(leaving another stupid bubble)... And It seems too be easiest too slap a bunch of resin down(just to get the mat more flexible) and then go back and tap it with the brush like 30 seconds later. It seems to giver the resin a little time to get stickier so it makes the mat stay where you want it. sorry if this isnt makeing a ton of sence... Ive had a few beers and have to go back downstairs soon to do the 5th layer so I have too be quick! Anyways.... I posted some pics again... I will show a picture of every layer (dont know if its neccisary)... Also there is a picture showing how I cut up the Mat. Well gotta go... leme know if there is any suggestions/and or questions!

OH and Ward... I put a picture of the (one ast least) beer in there for you! Of course I didnt forget that!

[jusbechillin]

K I did the 5th layer..... Movin quick now!!! Well Im gonna call it a night, but I have thursdays off... so hopefully I'll get to put some more time into this.... I need to buy some packaging Peanuts to measure out the aprox. air space of the box and then I will cut it(dremmel) to size and maybe try to make the back piece from the MDF also..... Well see how much I can get done! Oh yeah... bending over this thing for hours on end really does a number for your back! SHEESH!!

[330i]

I hope you did a few layer while in the car first, let it dry then pull out and do the rest or it may warp on you from the heat of curing.

10's will be good. My chick wanted 12's in her car so it's going to be tuff to get the ^3 ft. for the boxes and leave a gap in the middle for the amp and flow through for the armrest.

[jusbechillin]

The subs I have only need .65 C.F. of air and only displace .04c.f. themselves.... Fosgate p210s4 (2) , a Fosgate P501BD, and a monster cable Farad Capacitor...Thats what Im gonna use.... I thought about ditching the two subs I have for one JL Audio 10w7 but I dont think I wanna invest the $$$ into the differance... I should be more than happy with the added bass of my subs I pulled from my 06 Silverado 2500HDTruck(they fit under the seat thats why I had bought the small subs)..

Someone asked about doing Fiberglass layers in the car before removing... The answere is YES I did two layers before removing as shown in the pictures... Everywhere I read said two was fine especialy when using FG Mat and not FG cloth....

I Finished the 7th layer now..... The next step is to make the back out of MDF..... BUT...... I am thinking about skipping the back and just moving right to mounting the MDF ring(for the sub to eventually mount into) and stretching fabric from there..... I thought I would need a back for two reasons... 1: Air space which I now realize I dont need much for my seald boxes.. 2: Too make it look more finished which I think that can be accomplished without raising the back of the box with wood(if that makes any sense)....

So on Sunday I plan on doing the math to figure out EXACTLY how much airspace will be in the box and cutting the piece down to size with a dremmel.... Hopefully will have time to make the MDF ring and mount it too the box with the wooden dowels I bought..... QUESTION FOR SOMEONE WHOS DONE THIS BEFORE........ How tight does the fabrick I stretch to the Ring have to be?? I mean, if I am using only a hot glue gun and some wooden dowels to hold the ring up... how much tension can it take before collapsing and having to start over again? ALSO after the box is complete do I remove the wooded dowels inside??

Here are the pics of the 6th & 7th layers...... The 6th layer I also posted a picture of the fiberglass after I used a dremel with a sanding bit to smooth out any spots I didnt fiberglass smoothly... The spots that look white have been sanded... I have been doing this between every layer.... I run my hand over the dry layer that I just finished and if I feel something sharp or sticking out I sanded it down.... The smoother the surface the less bubbles in the finished product..... The more I get used to the glassing the less sanding I've had to do..... One last thing, I found two spots where there seemed to be a noticable air pocket aprox between the 3rd-5th layers..... So before I did the sixth layer I used a cone shaped sanding tool on my dremel and broke through to the center of the pocket... I then filled the open pocket with resin... I let it dry before I did the 6th layer.... I think filling in those air pockets is a good Idea.... Hopefully be updating on Sunday again!!

[Kit523]

Originally Posted by jusbechillin

The subs I have only need .65 C.F. of air and only displace .04c.f. themselves.... Fosgate p210s4 (2) , a Fosgate P501BD, and a monster cable Farad Capacitor...Thats what Im gonna use.... I thought about ditching the two subs I have for one JL Audio 10w7 but I dont think I wanna invest the $$$ into the differance... I should be more than happy with the added bass of my subs I pulled from my 06 Silverado 2500HDTruck(they fit under the seat thats why I had bought the small subs)..

Someone asked about doing Fiberglass layers in the car before removing... The answere is YES I did two layers before removing as shown in the pictures... Everywhere I read said two was fine especialy when using FG Mat and not FG cloth....

I Finished the 7th layer now..... The next step is to make the back out of MDF..... BUT...... I am thinking about skipping the back and just moving right to mounting the MDF ring(for the sub to eventually mount into) and stretching fabric from there..... I thought I would need a back for two reasons... 1: Air space which I now realize I dont need much for my seald boxes.. 2: Too make it look more finished which I think that can be accomplished without raising the back of the box with wood(if that makes any sense)....

So on Sunday I plan on doing the math to figure out EXACTLY how much airspace will be in the box and cutting the piece down to size with a dremmel.... Hopefully will have time to make the MDF ring and mount it too the box with the wooden dowels I bought..... QUESTION FOR SOMEONE WHOS DONE THIS BEFORE........ How tight does the fabrick I stretch to the Ring have to be?? I mean, if I am using only a hot glue gun and some wooden dowels to hold the ring up... how much tension can it take before collapsing and having to start over again? ALSO after the box is complete do I remove the wooded dowels inside??

Here are the pics of the 6th & 7th layers...... The 6th layer I also posted a picture of the fiberglass after I used a dremel with a sanding bit to smooth out any spots I didnt fiberglass smoothly... The spots that look white have been sanded... I have been doing this between every layer.... I run my hand over the dry layer that I just finished and if I feel something sharp or sticking out I sanded it down.... The smoother the surface the less bubbles in the finished product..... The more I get used to the glassing the less sanding I've had to do..... One last thing, I found two spots where there seemed to be a noticable air pocket aprox between the 3rd-5th layers..... So before I did the sixth layer I used a cone shaped sanding tool on my dremel and broke through to the center of the pocket... I then filled the open pocket with resin... I let it dry before I did the 6th layer.... I think filling in those air pockets is a good Idea.... Hopefully be updating on Sunday again!!

good job! good luck with the work
keep us updated please!

[330i]

Hot glue holds pretty well if you mount in 4 spots or so. You can leave the dowels but they may come loose later by the vibration so you should glass around them too. Personally I would take them out so they are not in the way when you glass the seems from the inside.