[fastloop]

I don’t like the look of this.

I recently had my water pump replaced under warranty, so while checking the coolant levels and having a good look around in the engine bay with a flash light I noticed a wet oil patch underneath the passenger side of the Intercooler (cold side). It was quite noticeable and it had even seeped through the holes in the under tray and was visible underneath the car. Luckily it looks like it hasn’t dripped onto my drive, so I popped the car up on my race ramps and removed the under tray.

From looking at the pipe coming out of the intercooler, it was quite easy to see where the oil had come from. You can see the underside of the coupling being quite wet and oily. You can also see that the overspray and the surrounding plastic bit being wet and oily.



The top side of the IC coupling is dry so the oil definitely came from the inside the pipe and it's not something that dripped on to it from above.

This picture is taken from the side and you can the top is dry and dusty.



Unfortunately I soaked up the oil and wiped off the spill before I took a picture of the under tray, but the marked area had quite a bit of oil soaking in it. The middle of the box has a indented section in it and almost served a bit like an oil reservoir.



To confirm if the oil was coming from the inside, I popped the hose going to the IC and ran a finger inside and there is definitely a thin layer of oil residue in there. The coupling itself was also covered in oil but it's a little bit difficult to see on this picture as the flash hides the oil a little.
What I don’t get is how the oil got out in the first place? This is supposed to be sealed and air tight as it’s on the high pressure side of the turbo.

This makes me wonder if the boost leak I had when I picked my car up after they fixed the water pump was related to this? I went back to the dealer immediately after I had scanned the fault and they said they had found a “turbo hose” that wasn’t attached properly at the back of the engine, but nothing more specific than that. Hmmm? My BT tool showed that it was a 30FF error (30FF-Exhaust fume turbocharger low side), so I don’t see that this is related. AFAIK the low pressure side is up by the diverter valves. Also I can’t see why they would have disturbed the IC coupling when they fixed the water pump as it’s miles away from it. Maybe they could have disturbed this when they drained the coolant, but I have no idea what they need to do to empty out the coolant?




So what’s going on here? Are the seals on my turbo’s on the way out? I’m pretty sure that there shouldn’t be any oil coming out of this pipe and it’s should only be air. AFAIK, finding oil in the IC is a bad sign and it reminds me of when Tony’s car was puffing a bit of smoke? The spill and drip may have happened over a number of days as it doesn’t look like it’s oozing out of the coupling. I have wiped off the oil around the coupling to see if it still leaked, but so far it looks dry underneath it.

Let’s assume that the IC coupling wasn’t closed properly -could the boost leak possible have blown oil through my IC and caused the spill? So the fact that the coupling wasn’t properly close highlighted this problem?

The car seems to be running normal and it doesn’t smoke when idling (after it’s warmed up). The oil gauge also seem fine. It’s dropped a little to mid way on the gauge, but no unusual oil consumption to report?

I feel another dealer visit coming up.

[Yahoo]

A common problem with the N54 platform. This is the side effect of blow-by. Oil vapours blow past your piston rings, get recirculated into the engine and get trapped in your cooling system. Your dealership won't be at all surprised by this. I would recommend sourcing a good oil catch can (several are available in the market place and many reviews available on the forced induction pages).

You may be able to push for your dealership to flush your cooling system - but I don't know.

Over time this is definately bad news and it will ultimately reduce the efficiency of your intercooler and could cause other problems (valve carbonation etc perhaps?).

This is all due to our cars becoming more green - instead of oil vapour being expelled through the exhausts (and through the cats!!) it is recirculated into the engine and cacks up everything in its path.

[Dr Dave]

New O ring seal on the pipe and all will be well.

Film of oil inside that pipework is totally normal, nothing to worry about.

[E92Fan]

The 30FF code on the BT indicates an underboost situation - basically the ECU is calling for a determined amount of boost and the turbos are failing to produce the boost required. This is normally either to do with the wastegates not closing properly (either due to setup or fault) or a boost leak from one of the hoses. This 30FF code will have nothing to do with the oil in the intercooler

As Ben (Yahoo) has said, the oil in the intercooler system is an unfortunate product of the oil blow-by that happens with these N54 engines. One thing that will help prevent this in future is the installation of an oil catch can in the crankcase ventilation line. This helps collect the oil deposits in the vapour as it passes back into the intake system from the crankcase. The downside is that you need to check the catch can periodically to see if any oil is in there, and empty the can accordingly.

Have a look at AR Design's oil catch can - it has been getting a very good reputation recently as it's new to the market.

www.ardesign.info

[marcel b]

Originally Posted by E92Fan

The 30FF code on the BT indicates an underboost situation - basically the ECU is calling for a determined amount of boost and the turbos are failing to produce the boost required. This is normally either to do with the wastegates not closing properly (either due to setup or fault) or a boost leak from one of the hoses. This 30FF code will have nothing to do with the oil in the intercooler

As Ben (Yahoo) has said, the oil in the intercooler system is an unfortunate product of the oil blow-by that happens with these N54 engines. One thing that will help prevent this in future is the installation of an oil catch can in the crankcase ventilation line. This helps collect the oil deposits in the vapour as it passes back into the intake system from the crankcase. The downside is that you need to check the catch can periodically to see if any oil is in there, and empty the can accordingly.

Have a look at AR Design's oil catch can - it has been getting a very good reputation recently as it's new to the market.

www.ardesign.info

Tony, could you please check your inbox. Thanks!

[dxb335d]

Could be turbo seals. Have the turbos been replaced before. What is your
milege and state of tune ?!


Dave there should be no oil in the intercooler and pipes

[doughboy]

Its due to the crankcase breather recirculation as said.

The oil vapours get fed back into the air intake side and then film up right through the intake pipes.

The intercooler being the low point in the system where the majority will accumulate.

Agree - oil catch can is the way forward - the AR design one is a cracker.

[E92Fan]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

Could be turbo seals. Have the turbos been replaced before. What is your
milege and state of tune ?!


Dave there should be no oil in the intercooler and pipes

Unlikely to be the turbo seals - you'll notice a lot of smoke coming out of the back of the exhausts if the seals had gone

[Yahoo]

Yes - as advised, the AR Design catch can is a great design. I have gone for the BSH can personally - which is also designed for the N54 platform. Both of these cans come with high quality filtration and bespoke hosing and mounting solutions - they are similarly priced also.

I would personally avoid the Riss Racing can, unless you don't mind modifying it to make it oil tight!

Either way - for any N54 (stock or modified) an oil catch can can't be fitted too soon to prolong the life and efficiency of the engine.

[dxb335d]

Originally Posted by E92Fan

Unlikely to be the turbo seals - you'll notice a lot of smoke coming out of the back of the exhausts if the seals had gone

Not always. Only when the seals are really gone.

[Yahoo]

[fastloop]

Originally Posted by E92Fan

The 30FF code on the BT indicates an underboost situation - basically the ECU is calling for a determined amount of boost and the turbos are failing to produce the boost required. This is normally either to do with the wastegates not closing properly (either due to setup or fault) or a boost leak from one of the hoses. This 30FF code will have nothing to do with the oil in the intercooler

As Ben (Yahoo) has said, the oil in the intercooler system is an unfortunate product of the oil blow-by that happens with these N54 engines. One thing that will help prevent this in future is the installation of an oil catch can in the crankcase ventilation line. This helps collect the oil deposits in the vapour as it passes back into the intake system from the crankcase. The downside is that you need to check the catch can periodically to see if any oil is in there, and empty the can accordingly.

Have a look at AR Design's oil catch can - it has been getting a very good reputation recently as it's new to the market.

www.ardesign.info

Thanks Tony. I agree that the 30FF error in itself has nothing to do with the oil leak. I was just trying to figure out which pipe/hose they re-attached when I brought it back in again. The IC coupling doesn't appear to be leaking any more so I can only conclude that this was the pipe that was not properly attached and caused the boost leak. It would certainly explain the spray and oil spill. The oil residue from the last 2.5 years would be forced out if the coupling wasn't closed properly.

If the 30FF error can't be thrown if there is a leak in this pipe/coupling, then I would be a bit more concerned that the O ring is not sealing properly.

In terms of the oil catch can, then now I start to understand what all the fuss is about. I have looked at both the AR Design or the BSH one. There is a nice review that shows the installation of the BSH one, but I can't find anything on the AR Design on. Also it appears to be on the passenger side of the car which is different to everyone else.

Has anyone got a link to the installation instructions for the AR Design one? I wouldn't mind having a look at the installation before I decide.

[fastloop]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

Could be turbo seals. Have the turbos been replaced before. What is your
milege and state of tune ?!


Dave there should be no oil in the intercooler and pipes

The turbos has not been replaced before and I must admit reading about everyone else having wastegate actuator issues and getting their turbos replaced got me a bit worried that I might be in for big repair bill some time in the future. If BMW would have it this will be after my warranty expires.

Milage is coming up to 29000 and the engine is stock.

[E92Fan]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

Not always. Only when the seals are really gone.

I agree that in some cases, you'll have oil seepage without signs of smoke. However knowing what I do about the turbos on our cars, and the configuration of the ventilation of the crankcase and the orientation of the oil return drain, I can assure you that if there is seepage past the seals you'll see smoke, not on acceleration perhaps but certainly on the overrun and definitely at idle when the oil pools. Remember the smoke from my car? That was with very minor oil seepage past the seals...

[Yahoo]

Originally Posted by 335rocks

Has anyone got a link to the installation instructions for the AR Design one? I wouldn't mind having a look at the installation before I decide.

I don't think there is one at the moment AFAIK.

The AR installation is more involved as it means routing the hose further around the engine bay, whereas the RR and BSH cans sit closer to the coupler that the hose connects to.

The position of the AR can is theoretically better though, in that it is located in a cooler part of the engine bay - meaning that the collected oil would not vapourise again due to high engine temps, but this is pretty unlikely to happen on the OS location of the BSH and RR cans.

I went with BSH because of the quality of the hose, couplers and can fabrication - something that lets the RR product down. Also, I am getting ceramic coated downpipes which will reduce temps in the enging bay - so the location of the BSH can won't be an issue (and pobably isn't with stock DPs either).

[Dr Dave]

Originally Posted by dxb335d

Could be turbo seals. Have the turbos been replaced before. What is your
milege and state of tune ?!


Dave there should be no oil in the intercooler and pipes

Carl, you'd be shocked how much oil would be inside the intercooler and associated pipework on the dxbizzle mate.

[willhollin]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

Carl, you'd be shocked how much oil would be inside the intercooler and associated pipework on the dxbizzle mate.

The DXB is oil cooled.

[Dr Dave]

Hell I thought it was cooled by CO2! I've learnt something today!

[E92Fan]

Originally Posted by Dr Dave

Carl, you'd be shocked how much oil would be inside the intercooler and associated pipework on the dxbizzle mate.

You're right Dave, it is shocking how much oil there is in the pipework. However Carl is also right - in an ideal world, there should be ZERO oil in there.

Installing a catch can in the crankcase breather system is a good way to prevent the buildup of oil. We just checked the intercooler pipework on my car and I was pleased to discover barely any oil there whatsoever. More a result of preventative measures than anything else!

[fastloop]

Originally Posted by Yahoo

I don't think there is one at the moment AFAIK.

The AR installation is more involved as it means routing the hose further around the engine bay, whereas the RR and BSH cans sit closer to the coupler that the hose connects to.

The position of the AR can is theoretically better though, in that it is located in a cooler part of the engine bay - meaning that the collected oil would not vapourise again due to high engine temps, but this is pretty unlikely to happen on the OS location of the BSH and RR cans.

I went with BSH because of the quality of the hose, couplers and can fabrication - something that lets the RR product down. Also, I am getting ceramic coated downpipes which will reduce temps in the enging bay - so the location of the BSH can won't be an issue (and pobably isn't with stock DPs either).

Thanks Yahoo. It's a tough choice between the BSH and AR kit. They are the pretty much the same money and both appear to be good solid products.

I like the quality of the BSH can and the detailed install guide, but the AR Design one also looks to be a cracking product and perhaps has a slight edge with the filter? I'm really torn between which one to go for and what placement?

BSH - Same placement as previous cans. Possible heat issues but shorter hoses and good quality connectors. Looks to be a straight forward install.

AR Design - Looks nice and easy to see if there is oil in the can. Drain plug also appears to be at the bottom making it easier to empty.
NS placement - may block future intake upgrade and have longer hose run.
OS placement - need to relocate vacuum cannisters slightly. Trickier install.

Choices, choices... has anyone installed the AR design one and relocated the vacuum canisters? Any photos, thoughts? I'm sure I'm not the first one having a think about this.