[aarwilli]

Hey Guys,

Started playing with the Microfibert polish starter kit finally this weekend. Did some test spots and noticed when I applied the correction compound with the maroon pad, it did not seem to wipe off easily at all especially around the edges of the test area. I really had to use a light and some elbow grease to remove all the residue before putting on the finishing wax. I did 3-5 passes using mostly just the weight of the polisher. Anyone else had this issue?

[MuttGrunt]

Have you ever polished with a heavy polish / compound before?

The D300 comes off extremely easy... compared to "like" products that are meant for heavier cutting. It also finished down extremely well... compared to "like" products.

It's not going to be super easy to wipe off like a finishing product will, and it will not finish down 100% perfectly: it just does both better than other products that would be comparable.

[aarwilli]

This is my first step into the machine polishing realm. I was just wanting to make sure I wasn't doing something wrong in application. Seemed like I had to put WAY to much effort into wiping off than I would have expected. Any advice for making it easier? I spent a few minutes wiping off residue around the edges, seemed excessive to me... Sorry if this is my newbie ignorance....

[MuttGrunt]

It's hard to say because I'm not seeing how you're working the product and exactly what you're doing, but it sounds like just newbie experience. If you think the D300 is tough, I can send you some stuff that'll make your head spin

To make things easier, work slightly smaller areas and use less polish. If you run into a particularly tough area to wipe off, add a tad more polish to the area, work it for a second or two with the polisher, and then you should find it's much easier.

[autoaesthetica]

mmm blueberryyy..

A couple more variables - how well primed were you with the D300? And were you noticing everything was harder to remove once you got a few panels into polishing? Or was it right from the start that D300 was tough to remove? Loaded pads can cause easy to work with products to become nightmares. Unfortunately the MF system really needs compressed air or a STIFF brush to unclog the pads as you work.

And importantly what paint are you working on and what kind of exposure has it seen(garaged at night, outside all the time, no protection in X time etc...) - it seems to be the year I eat some of my words about grabby finishes but there are no doubt times, when everything lines up just wrong.

I tend to remove D300 a little "damp" whereas after priming D300 comes off very easily when "dryish". It makes life easier simply because I know I will not be in the situation you unfortunately had to work through . Fill us in

Mike

[Envious Eric]

wait, you had a hard time removing a compound from the paint? and then you tried to wax the area???????/ you do realize that you are skipping a step right?

you need to compound, then polish the area, then clean the area, then wax it!

you are trying to skip a very vital step here!!!

[aarwilli]

Originally Posted by MuttGrunt

It's hard to say because I'm not seeing how you're working the product and exactly what you're doing, but it sounds like just newbie experience. If you think the D300 is tough, I can send you some stuff that'll make your head spin

To make things easier, work slightly smaller areas and use less polish. If you run into a particularly tough area to wipe off, add a tad more polish to the area, work it for a second or two with the polisher, and then you should find it's much easier.

I'll give it another shot with that technique Matt. Thanks for the advice! I was concerned I was either not working it enough or too much and it was causing this. I even went out this morning and found more areas with residue left that I couldn't even budge using just a finger on the residue let alone a much more gentle towel.

Originally Posted by autoaesthetica

mmm blueberryyy..

A couple more variables - how well primed were you with the D300? And were you noticing everything was harder to remove once you got a few panels into polishing? Or was it right from the start that D300 was tough to remove? Loaded pads can cause easy to work with products to become nightmares. Unfortunately the MF system really needs compressed air or a STIFF brush to unclog the pads as you work.

And importantly what paint are you working on and what kind of exposure has it seen(garaged at night, outside all the time, no protection in X time etc...) - it seems to be the year I eat some of my words about grabby finishes but there are no doubt times, when everything lines up just wrong.

I tend to remove D300 a little "damp" whereas after priming D300 comes off very easily when "dryish". It makes life easier simply because I know I will not be in the situation you unfortunately had to work through . Fill us in

Mike

It was hard to remove from the get go. I was cleaning with a soft toothbrush between every application. Maybe I should get a harder brush to use like you suggest. The paint is on my '08 E92 which has been sitting outside for about 5 months sadly. The good new is now I opened up the garage and can dive into polishing her back to perfection I did make sure to clay VERY well before applying the D300, making sure the clay slid across the area completely resistance free.

The part that's odd to me is that it only seems to be hard to remove around the edges of a work area. The middle comes off fairly easily as I would have expected. Is there a chance the edges aren't getting worked enough and if so how do I prevent this because there is always going to be edges of a certain area of work....Like I said NEWB

[aarwilli]

Originally Posted by Envious Eric

wait, you had a hard time removing a compound from the paint? and then you tried to wax the area???????/ you do realize that you are skipping a step right?

you need to compound, then polish the area, then clean the area, then wax it!

you are trying to skip a very vital step here!!!

This is a new system Meguiars has released which to my knowledge only requires these two steps. The "Finishing Wax" to me seems to be a polish that has some protection added to it. I don't treat it as my last step, I come back after and apply NXT 2.0 by hand for final protection.