08-26-2011, 07:05 AM | #1 |
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What do you have - Garage Flooring
I am in the process of building a new home and before a single car touches the concrete surface in the garage I want to get the flooring figured out.
I figure if I do it before we move in it will provide a better surface in case I decide to go Epoxy and it will have a better survival rate, as oil and brake fluid will not allow the epoxy to cure properly. I am really torn as I dont ever want to do it again, so I am wondering if I should go plastic tiles that clip together. Anyone with good solid advice please chime in. Also if I do the epoxy covering, I want a very dull (no sheen) appearance with a very rough surface (skid resistance). I saw this once, almost like it had something mixed in with it. I loved it, but can not seem to find it anywhere. Doesnt matter if it has color chips in it or not.
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08-26-2011, 08:24 AM | #3 |
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Almost all the epoxy coatings from homedepot/lowes have a skid resistant power you throw in while mixing. Basically just little beads. They have a matte grey type color also.
I've used the race deck plastic tiles before alot on other applications. They suck if you are always moving them around. Also you cannot turn your wheel alot while on them and not moving or else they will all come unclipped and you'll have a fun time putting them back together. |
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08-26-2011, 09:17 AM | #4 | |
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I am thinking I may go the route of the home depot epoxy. I have read great reviews on it!
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08-30-2011, 08:46 AM | #5 |
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08-30-2011, 10:08 AM | #6 |
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1st things first, if at all possible (ie, the concrete hasn't been poured yet) you're absolutely gonna want a vapor barrier everywhere you plan on having any sort of coating. It's a simple plastic layer between the earth and the concrete, which prevents water from being drawn up and becoming trapped between the porous concrete and non-porous coating, which can cause bubbles and eventual cracks in the finish.
Second, get it done professionally. Professionals have the variety of surfaces and the tooling & expertise to grind, mix, and apply it properly. The DIY kits have somewhat of a reputation for inconsistency in finish, and are not as durable. Not to mention, the chemicals used in commercial grade flooring are some of the nastiest around. Additionally, professional grade coatings have a longer life, and given you have a vapor barrier, are often warrantied/guaranteed by the installer for 10 or more years. Without the barrier, you might be looking at a 1 or 2 year guarantee. My dad just went through this decision making process with me about 2 months ago, so if you have any more specific questions, feel free to ask. Edit, from the post pics of your garage thread, how the finish turned out: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...66&postcount=6 It is not as dull nor gritty as you mention you would prefer, but like I said before, the contractor has tons of samples to choose from. Last edited by BTM; 08-30-2011 at 10:23 AM.. |
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08-30-2011, 10:32 AM | #7 |
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polished concrete. thanks for the idea, home depot.
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08-30-2011, 10:42 AM | #8 |
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Concrete is fine, but certainly has its disadvantages for someone who spends time in their garage, or has it climate controlled. It will absorb fluids and stain (which can actually be a desirable trait if you see snow, as an epoxy surface will not absorb any melting snow/ice, and no matter how gritty, can become slippery - a cheap runner carpet is a popular winter solution for a slippery surface), is cold and uncomfortable to lay on, is difficult to clean, and is certainly a huge point of inefficiency if your garage is heated. It's certainly a durable surface, and perfectly adequate for what many use their garage for, but there is always room for improvement.
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08-30-2011, 12:17 PM | #9 |
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thank you home improvement expert.
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11-17-2011, 07:48 AM | #10 |
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Some great advice in here!!! Thanks guys!
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11-17-2011, 08:26 AM | #11 |
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If you're going with the epoxy route make sure you get the 2 part mixing kind, which is the glossy one and much more durable, and not the single can premixed ( dull surface type). I had painted my garage with the premixed epoxy and they're not durable at all. I'm actually Planning to repaint with 2 part epoxy in the next couple weeks
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11-18-2011, 02:50 PM | #12 |
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This is the stuff we have in our garage:
http://protective.sherwin-williams.c...3Aproduct-6872 We had the home depot epoxy and that chipped in about 2 months. We've had this stuff in our garage for the past 5 years now and it hasn't chipped at all. We do all of our work on our cars and it has seen its fair share of spills like oil, brake fluid, etc. Still in perfect condition. Pretty good at taking impacts as well. Changed the tranny in our jeep in the garage, not a single mark left behind from the jacks or the stands. Rexthane does take some prep work though. You need to go over the floor with the grinder or, preferably, have it shot blasted before application. Hope that helps. ::EDIT:: Make sure you have a good respirator if you're doing this yourself, the fumes from rexthane are terrible. |
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11-18-2011, 03:33 PM | #13 |
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Thanks guys.
Looks like a job for the pros, if this stuff peeled after all that work I would be pissed off! :/
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11-18-2011, 03:39 PM | #14 | |
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11-18-2011, 03:58 PM | #15 | |
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The type of flooring you go with should stem with what you plan on using the garage for, and weighing the costs/benefits. What kind of work will it see? Basic DIY stuff, heavier DIYing (welding, etc), or do you want a space that simply looks good to park your cars in? Is your garage climate controlled, or do you plan on climate control in the future? Each has their advantages and disadvantages, and pinpointing your main use of the space will go a long way in satisfying your expectations. A recent issue of Classic Motorsports (had a blue porsche on the cover) had a good summary of the pros and cons of all the different flooring methods. I'm not sure if I still have it, if I do I'll scan the page. |
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11-18-2011, 05:31 PM | #16 | |
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11-20-2011, 09:08 PM | #17 |
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i've done home depot kit and next house done professionally. get a professional. regardless, prep is key. you can either acid etch or grind the surface before the paint. have the professional do the grind. good prep means the paint will stick better and last longer.
home depot kit, no prep, done on new concrete -- started peeling within a year. professional job -- 3 years now, no chips, no peels, easy to clean, looks just like new. just my .02 . . . when new: and last halloween . . . |
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11-20-2011, 09:21 PM | #18 |
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Mine's bone stock. I hate it but whatever.
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11-21-2011, 06:13 PM | #19 | |
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But yes, heavy things have hit the finish without chipping it. Used three coats plus an anti-slip addition (basically sand). Directions really need to followed for it to hold up well, but that can be said about all finishes. Like all paint, it's all about the prep. |
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11-24-2011, 06:00 PM | #20 |
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How much is a decent quote for a professional job? Basic coating, old garage from 1998. Not climate controlled.
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11-24-2011, 07:08 PM | #21 |
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my old man went ahead and got tiles that have the colour pigment all the way through the tiles as well as a non slip surface. Then painted the walls a similar colour, then hung 2 chandeliers and mounted a bunch of posters.
he went for the pigment all the way through so if there are any chips or cracks, they won't show, and the tiles he got are extra durable. plain and simple, but having a finished garage gives you a reason to keep it clean. |
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