[badass335]

So car's been running good for a while and then i started getting tapping sound. Came from the driver side. Thought it was the usual noise everyone got that would go away. Anyways, took the car into the dealership and it turns out i had an issue with my alternator bearing. Dealership replaced my alternator and that noise is gone. After they changed my alternator, they told me my power steering pulley was cracked so a week later, i had them change that as well. Thank god they brought this to my attention AFTER they put the car back together.

A week later, i get the new procede rev 3 and install that with the new PWM kit. Having misfires on cyl1. Pushed map 1 with default settings and i get a HPFP code. Turns out the fuel pump is gone! I just had mine replace in January under the recall too. Took it back to BMW and had the hpfp replaced.

Now i get the car back and i have a wierd tapping sound from the driver side under engine load at idle. Does not go up or down with rpm. If i rev it, the noise is gone. Basically, at idle, i turn my wheel slightly, i hear a tapping. I can leave my wheel alone, no tapping. Kick on my A/C and tapping like crazy. Didn't happen before.

The other major issue is now the car seems to be holding back when going through the gears. If i put the car in 3rd, around 1500rpm and step on it, the car seems like it lags through the entire rpm range. This is stock or with procede. Boost seems to be fine. If i run procede, map 1, no issues getting the 13.5psi boost. Map 4 with meth, no issues hitting the 18psi. stock i'm hitting the 7-8psi and it's steady as well thoughout the rpm range. It sometimes pulls back say 3000 rpm for a sec and/ or keeps going but doesn't seem to be as responsive and free reving as before. NO CODES though! To give an example, my 328 loaner seems to go through the gears better

I remember someone mentioning that they had some power loss issues when their turbo inlet hoses popped out. Not sure if this is the same story here.

Car is going back to the dealer tomorrow. Even though my dealer knows my car's modified history, i pulled the procede out just to ensure this has no effect on the troubleshooting.

Anybody have any ideas i can let them know off to help troubleshoot this? suggestions etc?

[Bakeme521]

well it would be easy to find out if you have a boost leak, just see if you are hitting target boost or not. If you are not, then you have a leak. When my inlet pipe was cracked I threw a low boost code so I feel like you would be too.

As for the ticking, not a clue. It seems that when ever you put a small load on the engine(AC or turning the wheel) it drops the rpm enough to make it do it. Not sure what it is but I would start with anything on the belts maybe.

[badass335]

Originally Posted by Bakeme521

well it would be easy to find out if you have a boost leak, just see if you are hitting target boost or not. If you are not, then you have a leak. When my inlet pipe was cracked I threw a low boost code so I feel like you would be too.

As for the ticking, not a clue. It seems that when ever you put a small load on the engine(AC or turning the wheel) it drops the rpm enough to make it do it. Not sure what it is but I would start with anything on the belts maybe.

that was fast. i just finishedediting my original post saying that it's not a boost loss issue and i saw your post! As i mentioned, i'm hitting my boost targets without issues.

[dzenno]

Ah sucks man...really no idea what that could be..no codes??

[BoostinBimmer]

Don't know about the loss of power but the tapping noise sounds like it could be an A/C tensioner.

[badass335]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Ah sucks man...really no idea what that could be..no codes??

no codes. car just doesn't pull. i thought it 'may be' my new procede so i pulled it right out. I'm still having an issue. power kinda surges. sometimes, it pull through the entire rpm range and sometimes, it surges throught the range. Stock! Thought it may be the forge dv's so i pulled them out and serviced them. I can hear them coming in and out. I had my stock turbo's replaced 2 months ago but the install was ok as i didn't have that issue before. It's possible that the new hpfp is getting broken in? (Im grasping at straws here). new program causing a lag? beats me. i just know, it doesn't feel right. I have my big turbo's coming soon as well but i'm pushing that off until all this is sorted now

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Its not the HPFP getting broken in.

But you should be getting codes for something.

Could be anything really but it sounds like a boost leak.Start checking vacuum lines.

[badass335]

Originally Posted by BoostinBimmer

Don't know about the loss of power but the tapping noise sounds like it could be an A/C tensioner.

It's possible but this is whats wierd to me. How can the alternator, power steering pulley, and no A/C tensioner all go right after each other.

That noise is a constant at least so i can re-produce it all the time

[badass335]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

Its not the HPFP getting broken in.

But you should be getting codes for something.

Could be anything really but it sounds like a boost leak.Start checking vacuum lines.

I have checked vacuum lines. Can't find anything thats loose. I've cut new ends, zip tied just to be sure. Made sure no lines were pinched etc either. As mentioned, on my procede logs, i'm hitting targets and maintaining them as well.

[BoostinBimmer]

Bad things come in three's lol

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by badass335

I have checked vacuum lines. Can't find anything thats loose. I've cut new ends, zip tied just to be sure. Made sure no lines were pinched etc either. As mentioned, on my procede logs, i'm hitting targets and maintaining them as well.

Oh ok.

Could be spark plugs, injectors, coilpacks or HPFP/LPFP or Vanos

[badass335]

Originally Posted by BoostinBimmer

Bad things come in three's lol

If that were the case, i'd be done already

Turbo's failed in August, Alternator in September, Power Sterring pulley in September, Fuel pump in October.

Keep in mind, i'm out of warranty so this all costs me out of my pocket. (the fuel pump got covered by my dealer though thank good as hey had just done the other one in January)

[badass335]

Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions

Oh ok.

Could be spark plugs, injectors, coilpacks or HPFP/LPFP or Vanos

I've ordered new plugs just to be sure. Car was running fine in August even with the alternator ticking away. It was loud but it still ran through the rpm range. Appreciate the ideas though.

[dzenno]

Just my 2c given I've been down a f*ed up road like that for 7 months with that misfire issue: don't go replacing parts to solve it without a clear/direct reason for it...I'd look at the last thing changed more closely instead of even changing plugs so alternator, belts, pulleys

[badass335]

Originally Posted by dzenno

Just my 2c given I've been down a f*ed up road like that for 7 months with that misfire issue: don't go replacing parts to solve it without a clear/direct reason for it...I'd look at the last thing changed more closely instead of even changing plugs

I hear you on that The only reason i got new plugs is that my old set has a good year on them and i figure, its cheap and easy. I'm actually thinking of just keeping them until the big turbo's come so i have a fresh set.

Before i do anything, i want this ticking noise dealt with. Once thats resolved, i'll see if the power is back or not. Then go that route to see what else can be done.

[badass335]

I'm thinking maybe the belt is slipping?? possible?

[Bash]

I had that lag through gears and then boost came on and off sometimes never came on. Anyway turned out to be my water pump. Just thought id share that.

[RoundelM3]

Interesting...it's an electric water pump, which would account for the "constant speed" of the ticking, and the DME does monitor water temp. Bash might be on to something.

[Bash]

but the noise came from the driver side, the water pump is on the right side.

[dzenno]

No codes for the water pump so it's not that...it'll always throw a code...if there's no code for it then the dme doesn't know about it so it wouldn't touch anything else..

[Ilma]

Originally Posted by dzenno

No codes for the water pump so it's not that...it'll always throw a code...if there's no code for it then the dme doesn't know about it so it wouldn't touch anything else..

Seems about right.......

I don't think the water pump would impact power loss directly.

The only way for that to happen is via the power reduction table when water temps start to get too high and out of range.

A failing water pump may be allowing temps to fall into the power reduction range......but I don't know at what point that would trigger a code.

Quote from the BMW tech manual:

System Protection

In the event of the coolant or engine oil being subject to excessive temperatures while the
engine is running, certain functions in the vehicle are influenced so that more energy is
made available to the engine-cooling system, i.e. temperature-increasing loads are
avoided.
These measures are divided into two operating modes:
• Component protection

• Emergency


Wondering if Badass is falling into the component protection range?

[badass335]

I'll have to go in and monitor the temps. The noise only happens after the car warms up as well so this could make sense.