[vintagevrs]

Hello all,

Looking for a bit of help as i'm sure this has been done before but could not find the thread, and searching the Web on my phone is cracking me up.

I have an e92 se with standard cloth trim that are only part electric (tilt/height) and have come across a breakers that have heated electric memory and want to know will it be straight forward to swap them or will my car be missing necessary parts needed and need coding.

Thanks in advance

Vintagevrs

[foxy-stoat]

double post !!

[foxy-stoat]

If your doing the work yourself then you'll need:

Heated seat panel - £100 (ish)
Retro fit wiring - £70
Possible additional power leads to seats (£15 from maplins)
Coding ( dealer maybe £100?)

A few hours of your time.

Make sure the seats your buying are heated, ie have the additional wiring in both seats.

I have just fitted electric memory seats in my E91 but I thought they were heated, but they weren't, only found out after I fitted the wiring and heated seat panel...doh !!

[vintagevrs]

Thanks for the reply foxy.

Got the seats today and as expected the electrics on them do not work as the pin arrangements are different on the harnesses.

Getting a specialist car electrian to wire them next week for me.

Do you have any tips that I can share with him to help the process go as smoothly as possible?>

[foxy-stoat]

Would be easier if you post up pics of the car harness and seat harness.

Passenger seat will have either 1 set of big positive and negative leads if its not heated, 2 sets if its heated. Theres also 2 other wires for the heating.

Drivers seat should have 2 sets of positive and negative wires. 2 additional wires for the heat and 2 more for the K bus wires.

K bus wires are pin #2 and #3, cant remember which way round, one is green and the other is green/orange. They link to the same colour wires behind the heated seat panel in the dash, you need to solder them in.

The heat wires are pin #1 and #5 i think but will have to check for the drivers and the same for the passenger seat.

Theres no K bus wires on the passgener seat.

Good luck!

[vintagevrs]

Thanks Foxy!

Found this thread since with the diagram I needed so looks like I am good to go!

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...swap%22&page=3

Cheers

[vintagevrs]

Going to get the seats wired tomorrow and want to know if coding is essential and if so why? If I get a steady electric feed to the additional parts through a modified harness do I have any need for coding?

I rearranged one of the pins on my old harness and themain movement of the new seat worked fine for a little while butt then stopped. I borrowed an obd USB cable to see about recoding three seats but I am not sure why this is necessary?

Any thoughts anybody?

Cheers

[foxy-stoat]

You need pins 2 and 3 connected to the k bus wires to the car. The seats will work for about 30 seconds and die without the k bus wires. Coding will only be needed for heat to work, you have the heated seat buttons?

[vintagevrs]

Foxy,

Thanks so far for your help with this. Got on great today.

Seats are fitted and working 99%.

All the movement adjustment (back/forward/height) is working fine and the heated seats are working well too. Good strong heat of them as well compared to my last car.

Only thing that is not working are the inflatable bolsters on both seats. The bolsters work fine when the seats are disconnected and are given independent power so I know mechanically they are fine, but are not working now when fitted. I am guessing it is a coding issue?


I used the same heated seat button panel that came from the car I got the interior from and was surprised/delighted to see it worked without the coding.


To wire the seats we modified the seat harness that was in my car with the extra connections for power. We took the 12v feed from under the carpet at the drivers door (this was there on my car as I have an aftermarket amp in the boot, not sure if it would have been an option otherwise).

The KBus cables were soldered into the kbus that runs along the door sill, no need to solder behind the AC unit controls.

The memory also works on the seats but I am yet to try it with the two key fobs. I am guessing it will be a coding job for that to work and not really bothered with it if it doesnt work.



Hope my explanation/description of my set up can help anyone wanting to try this.



Vintage

[foxy-stoat]

No worries. You need two sets of positive and negatives to power the movement and bolsters

[vintagevrs]

Yes I have the two sets as the bolsters share the same power as the heated function and UT works fine so I am a but confused as to why they are not working?

Any ideas?

[foxy-stoat]

If your heat works but bolsters dont then I am not sure about that.....unless do the bolsters work when the heat is on?

I had the same issue with my seats (non heated tho) I ended up joining the 2 power leads to the same 12+ and everything worked fine.

Maybe one of the earths is bad?

[vintagevrs]

Turns out the 2nd 12v feeds I had got put in were dead

All working perfect now.


If anyone has standard part electric seats and is thinking of putting in fully electric heated seats I would recommend it as it is very straight forward to do although BMW will say it can not be done as it is not plug and play.

1. Disconnect the battery to prevent airbag light when the seat loom is disconnected

2. The car loom that is connected to the seat will have a thicker 12v connection as well as a thicker earth. Split these and match them to the connections that are needed on your new seat so it is getting power to all the places that it needs.

Pins 4,8,9,13 if memory serves me correctly.

3. The seats will not work with out a canbus signal. This can be tapped into anywhere in the car and corresponds to pin 2,3. There is a canbus cable running under each of the door sills. When the seats are out unscrew the speaker covers that are in the floor and lift the carpet where it is split. Under the sill should, there will be two cables of equal thickness and colour to pins 2and 3. These are the canbus cables for the car. Join these cables with pin2, pin3 matching the colours.

4. Put it all back together




Hope that helps someone