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      04-15-2012, 02:32 PM   #1
NJ 1161
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How to camber rear wheels-335d

Looking for more camber on rear wheels to give more arch clearance, so is the camber adjustable on the back of a e92 335d, can I do it myself or do I need to go to specialists?

Is this the sort of thing a 'kwikfit' can do, and if so what sort of camber degrees should I be asking for??

Looking at fitting m3 control arms to camber front, so what do I need to sort rear??

About to fit cloilovers, will this naturally camber the rear wheels (as i lower) as per my 1st car some year ago, the Vw beetle???
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      04-15-2012, 02:37 PM   #2
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they wear the inner side of the rear tyres as it is increasing the camber can only make this worse
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      04-16-2012, 03:32 PM   #3
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Aware it may increase tyre wear slightly but thought there was a tolerance, and a bit of room for adjustment?
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      04-16-2012, 04:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ 1161 View Post
Is this the sort of thing a 'kwikfit' can do?
Don't let KwitFit anywhere near it! Don't know where you live, but these guys know their stuff:

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/whe...FcZc3wodwG75kw
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      04-16-2012, 05:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil325i View Post
Don't let KwitFit anywhere near it! Don't know where you live, but these guys know their stuff:

http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/whe...FcZc3wodwG75kw
Yup, Tony Bones is excellent.



You need to speak with an expert, if you dont know what you want to achieve its pointless throwing money at it.
A lot depends upon tyre choice, application (dd,track hack,taxi) suspension spring rates, roll stiffness....
What do you think the car is lacking?

The camber gain at the rear is quite high, so no real need to go mad with static camber.
But the fronts being struts often gain nothing through the range of travel, maybe even lose camber so that is worth exploring.
The M3 front arm will give you some more, the rear sould have ample adjustment for you in any case.
But for big camber up front you will need to look at camber plates at the top of the front struts to move the towers inwards (a lot).

But speak with a pro, and they will design a solution for you that suits your app, pocket and driving style plus other mods.
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      04-17-2012, 05:29 AM   #6
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+1 for Tony Bones. I got to know him around 6 yrs ago way before WIM.

If you want more camber on the rear for clearance that's not too difficult in the right hands with the right equipment. Its how it effects the other angles which determine the kind of wear your likely to get. I've seen it far often when people apply more neg camber and the inner shoulder wears like crazy leaving in some cases as much as 90% of the tread un-worn. This is usually to do with the Toe. Soon as you get below -2.5 deg you'll certainly have more wear but done correctly it will wear over 50-60% of the tread not the inner extreme shoulder when done by amatuers.
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      04-17-2012, 08:25 AM   #7
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As steve says our rear linkages already have a lot of camber gain, ie the camber increases a lot as it compresses, just look at a fully loaded (4 up with luggage) e9x and see how much camber they have - its like -10deg or something, its this compressed camber that will effect your clearances for tyres under compression. But going way outside spec is not a good idea without expert advice.

Not sure about the front, the mental geometry doesn't add up - steve? what do you reckon: The M3 lower arms are longer and thus they acheive more neg camber by moving the whole hub OUTWARDS whilst it rotates around the strut top as a pivot. This means the whole of the front wheel is further out than standard, just less of an extension at the top than the bottom. So I would say you'll have less top clearance than before with M3 arms.

The rear camber is achieved by adjusting eccentric pivots on the inboard ends of the lower arms. But if you adjust the rear camber, then the toe and thrust angle will both go out, so the whole car needs doing again on a proper 4 wheel alignment system, rears first, by someone who knows their beans if you're after something out of the ordinary.

The best way to avoid tyre rubbing in the first place is to fit wheels and tyres that fit! (sorry not helpful I know)

Last edited by doughboy; 04-17-2012 at 09:32 AM..
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      04-17-2012, 01:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doughboy View Post
Not sure about the front, the mental geometry doesn't add up - steve? what do you reckon: The M3 lower arms are longer and thus they acheive more neg camber by moving the whole hub OUTWARDS whilst it rotates around the strut top as a pivot.
I agree. But the length change is minimal, and the camber gain almost nothing on the front struts under compression.
So the wheel will traverse upwards into the wheel well in a similar plane, but with a little more camber.
Moving the turret tops changes the angle too and the pair can give maybe 2 degrees or so static camber?

Remember the bottom of the strut is tied to the chassis by a link arm too, and this traverses an arc - hence losing camber at full compression (possibly)

Op: what are you trying to achieve?
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      05-14-2012, 01:45 PM   #9
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TBH- To start with only really after a bit more clearence at the rear arch, and noticed the rear wheels seem to camber out when looking at photos unladen. But now looking for a minor improvment in handling but limited budget so thinking of front m3 control arms and then a decent 4 wheel alignment to set cambers/ toe ins etc, and hopefully camber in the rear to boot.
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