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      08-18-2012, 08:55 AM   #1
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Trying to figure out if I got post shift timing drops

I know u will tell me to log but I have had nightmares with connecting procede to laptop. I know there is a gauge mode that shows ignition correction. Is it mode 4 and what should I look for at a wot shift. It feels like a timing drop bc when I hit the kick down and the car does the second shift the power drops for a sec and then comes back on. And if I am having a drop what should I adjust in the parameters. I am on stage 0 on the latest 5-23maps. Thanks
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      08-18-2012, 09:09 AM   #2
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post log or else its all guessing
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      08-18-2012, 09:15 AM   #3
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yeah log it lol
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      08-18-2012, 09:20 AM   #4
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Grr. The only way I have connectivity is procede directly to laptop serial port. My serial to USB cable does not work. How much psi should I be seeing though. I spike to 15 psi and the taper down to about 12 psi from about 5600 rpm to redline.
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      08-18-2012, 09:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messi View Post
Grr. The only way I have connectivity is procede directly to laptop serial port. My serial to USB cable does not work. How much psi should I be seeing though. I spike to 15 psi and the taper down to about 12 psi from about 5600 rpm to redline.
sounds right but you are asking about timing post-shift, not boost. post logs. make sure CAN Actual Ign Adv is logged.
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      08-18-2012, 09:32 AM   #6
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Yup just making sure I am hitting boost targets. Still need to figure out this dam cable. Greer. Sure I can use the guage hijack to assist?
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      08-18-2012, 09:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messi View Post
Yup just making sure I am hitting boost targets. Still need to figure out this dam cable. Greer. Sure I can use the guage hijack to assist?
no, if you want someone to help here, you need logs. The gauge is CAN DME Ign Adv, which isn't "real" timing after the CPS offset calculation provided by CAN Actual Ign Adv. Otherwise it's all guessing.
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      08-18-2012, 09:52 AM   #8
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Been using a Radio Shack USB converter, no drops. Set to 19200 bitrate, and deselect the option under the advanced settings for "use FIFO buffers (requires 16550 UART)" or something like that. All of that is under the Device Manager, LPT/COM port settings. Oddly enough I can't get the Vishnu recommended USB converter to work at all. This is on an old Vista / AMD laptop.
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      08-18-2012, 10:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesM3M5 View Post
Been using a Radio Shack USB converter, no drops. Set to 19200 bitrate, and deselect the option under the advanced settings for "use FIFO buffers (requires 16550 UART)" or something like that. All of that is under the Device Manager, LPT/COM port settings. Oddly enough I can't get the Vishnu recommended USB converter to work at all. This is on an old Vista / AMD laptop.
Same here. The Vishnu recommended cable does not work at all. I bought the gig aware radio shack cable and it didn't work with windows 7. I now have an older laptop running vista. Will probably try the radio shack gig aware cable with windows xp. The Vishnu cable didn't work with windows 7 as well.
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      08-18-2012, 10:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst View Post
no, if you want someone to help here, you need logs. The gauge is CAN DME Ign Adv, which isn't "real" timing after the CPS offset calculation provided by CAN Actual Ign Adv. Otherwise it's all guessing.
gotcha. Gotta figure out via logging. Understood.
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      08-18-2012, 10:35 AM   #11
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My 2 cents is that a post shift timing drop will not feel like bog or lag......the acceleration continues smoothly, but feels kind of dull and does not pull as hard. From your description it sounds like transmission sorting something out or you are getting massive throttle closure on the kickdown.....neither of which is timing related.

But yeah....a datalog is going to point you in the right direction.
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      08-18-2012, 11:52 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilma View Post
My 2 cents is that a post shift timing drop will not feel like bog or lag......the acceleration continues smoothly, but feels kind of dull and does not pull as hard. From your description it sounds like transmission sorting something out or you are getting massive throttle closure on the kickdown.....neither of which is timing related.

But yeah....a datalog is going to point you in the right direction.
What would cause the throttle closure. Your description sounds cruelly more accurate as to what is happening actually. It's not a bog. My car only has 9000 miles btw.
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      08-18-2012, 12:18 PM   #13
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The sabrent 6' cable from amazon worked great for me on procede. Never once did I lose connection. Dirt cheap too
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      08-19-2012, 02:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesM3M5 View Post
Been using a Radio Shack USB converter, no drops. Set to 19200 bitrate, and deselect the option under the advanced settings for "use FIFO buffers (requires 16550 UART)" or something like that. All of that is under the Device Manager, LPT/COM port settings. Oddly enough I can't get the Vishnu recommended USB converter to work at all. This is on an old Vista / AMD laptop.
So u were right. The radio shak cable works with xp no issues. My next problem is getting that dam USB thru thr ecu wall. I took out the dme and saw a little tiny hole. Tried to push the USB thru. It wasn't going in. I read the DIY and it said there should be little resistance. I am wondering if the euro spec edition it different. Hope The euro guys will chime in. I really want to do this to log the car.
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      08-19-2012, 02:50 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messi View Post
So u were right. The radio shak cable works with xp no issues. My next problem is getting that dam USB thru thr ecu wall. I took out the dme and saw a little tiny hole. Tried to push the USB thru. It wasn't going in. I read the DIY and it said there should be little resistance. I am wondering if the euro spec edition it different. Hope The euro guys will chime in. I really want to do this to log the car.
Just hide the cable underneath the black ecu cover and run it outside the passenger side window, at least temporarily.
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      08-20-2012, 07:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst View Post
Just hide the cable underneath the black ecu cover and run it outside the passenger side window, at least temporarily.
Yeah but how am I gonna get the Cable out of the ecu cover with it closed?
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      08-20-2012, 07:35 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messi View Post
Yeah but how am I gonna get the Cable out of the ecu cover with it closed?
seriously? You put it underneath the BLACK cover that covers the ECU or even the rubber protector with the tabs that secures it.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, you didn't install the tune yourself, did you?
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      08-20-2012, 07:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Yeah but how am I gonna get the Cable out of the ecu cover with it closed?
There is an air vent on the "floor" of the ECU box that goes straight inside the cabin coming out right by the fuse box (behind the glove compartment). You'll see it.
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      08-20-2012, 07:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messi View Post
Yeah but how am I gonna get the Cable out of the ecu cover with it closed?
You have two options. I would go with the first, it's cleaner:

1. On either side of the white ECU box, there are wires coming in and out through rubber grommets. Pull the grommet on the right up, and use a pair of sharp scissors to cut a single slit through the grommet. Feed the wire through the slit and then push grommet down into its original position.

2. Don't latch the sliding locks at the top and bottom of the white ECU box. That way, you'll easily be able to pop the side latches on the right side, and reach inside to pull out your cable.
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      08-21-2012, 05:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themyst View Post
seriously? You put it underneath the BLACK cover that covers the ECU or even the rubber protector with the tabs that secures it.

If you don't know what I'm talking about, you didn't install the tune yourself, did you?
Yes I did. Man your answers are always cynical on this forum.
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      08-21-2012, 05:49 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laguna Seca Blue View Post
You have two options. I would go with the first, it's cleaner:

1. On either side of the white ECU box, there are wires coming in and out through rubber grommets. Pull the grommet on the right up, and use a pair of sharp scissors to cut a single slit through the grommet. Feed the wire through the slit and then push grommet down into its original position.

2. Don't latch the sliding locks at the top and bottom of the white ECU box. That way, you'll easily be able to pop the side latches on the right side, and reach inside to pull out your cable.
This sounds more feasible for me. Great suggestion. Some of us aint technically inclined. I surprised myself by installing my procede error free the first time!
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      08-21-2012, 06:54 AM   #22
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No worries brotha. Do you play cricket, cause you just bowled 'em
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