[mcpcolas]

this morning i started my car and it started shaking violently, then the engine light came on . so i restarted the car it wasn't shaking anymore but, the engine light stayed on, so i drove it to an Indy to read the codes and he found 7 codes
P0300
P0301
P0302
P0303
a few of them were repeated . he said the culprit could be spark plugs, coils, injectors, or the engine is leaking oil on the plugs, or the engine is sucking air somewhere other than the air intake . only mods are DCI and golf tee. the car is currently a bit over 47k . the plugs were replaced at 31k .looking at the car service history it shows at 27k i had my injectors check B13 14 10 but it does say if they were replaced or not . that's pretty much it. what do u guys think is mostly likely to be the culprit.

[enrita]

wasnt there a description of the codes in the AP? easier to get the description for fast answer than having people first searching for the codes..

[mcpcolas]

Originally Posted by enrita

wasnt there a description of the codes in the AP? easier to get the description for fast answer than having people first searching for the codes..

misfire in cylinder 1,2,3,and random misfire

[Bimmer305]

Originally Posted by mcpcolas

misfire in cylinder 1,2,3,and random misfire

Entire bank 1 misfiring.

From what I have seen, it could be,

- Primary O2 sensor
- Low pressure fuel pump.

[mcpcolas]

Originally Posted by Bimmer305

Entire bank 1 misfiring.

From what I have seen, it could be,

- Primary O2 sensor
- Low pressure fuel pump.

is there anyway to isolate the problem

[pits200]

If its the entire bank you can rule out plugs and coils most likely. As stated it may be o2 sensor or leaky injector causing entire bank misfire.

[Fun w/N54]

Mine is doing this as well during cold starts only. I'm guess injector(s) leaking.

[mcpcolas]

damn im out warranty i guess its time to break the bank

[enrita]

if it does that during cold start (car left overnight) and you smell gas is injektor.

[mcpcolas]

nah no smell of gas . quick question if its injectors would bmw cover it under that sib they had on the injectors

[sickem]

probably the primary oxygen sensor for that bank, but faulty oxygen sensors usually throw lambda codes...but you're right at the mileage where they shit the sheets. keep us posted.

[mcpcolas]

Can anybody post picture of the primary 02 sensor and its location for me, if its easy to get to I'll replace it tomorrow .and a part number would be appreciated.

[Bimmer305]

You need to give more specific details of what you are experiencing so people can help.

So, you started up the car and immediately it started to misfire and threw codes. Then you cleared the codes and as soon as you started the car again and immediately you got the codes that you posted above, or after driving it, the codes appeared again?

Are those the only codes you are getting?

You are going to have to start trouble shooting from easier to more complex.
- You can take out spark plugs and look/smell for oil or fuel on spark plugs.

Troubleshoot injectors, coils, spark plugs and low pressure fuel pump/sensor before doing o2 sensor.

For low pressure fuel pump, you are going to have to log and look for LPFP, should be ~60 to ~72 psi at all time. If not, it may be pump or MOST likely low fuel pressure sensor.

Changing the o2 sensor is no that easy, you are going to do step 1 through 11 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104333

[mcpcolas]

Originally Posted by Bimmer305

You need to give more specific details of what you are experiencing so people can help.

So, you started up the car and immediately it started to misfire and threw codes. Then you cleared the codes and as soon as you started the car again and immediately you got the codes that you posted above, or after driving it, the codes appeared again?

Are those the only codes you are getting?

You are going to have to start trouble shooting from easier to more complex.
- You can take out spark plugs and look/smell for oil or fuel on spark plugs.

Troubleshoot injectors, coils, spark plugs and low pressure fuel pump/sensor before doing o2 sensor.

For low pressure fuel pump, you are going to have to log and look for LPFP, should be ~60 to ~72 psi at all time. If not, it may be pump or MOST likely low fuel pressure sensor.

Changing the o2 sensor is no that easy, you are going to do step 1 through 11 http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104333

sorry for the confusion .but yes i started the car this morning and immediately
it started shaking and the ses light came on, so i shut it off, and restated it again after i did that it wasn't shaking as violently as before but u can still feel the vibration and the ses light remained. i never cleared the codes, i drove the car to a mechanic and he was able to pull those 7 codes. and yes that all the code he was able to get all misfiring in cylinder 1,2,3,and random misfiring

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Just misfire codes? Any shadow codes for fuel? Some indy shops only have generic code readers and can't read shadow codes from BMW. Those shadow codes from BMW diagnostic tools will likely have the answer we need.

I would first pull the plugs as they can tell you a lot.

First thing I would do is check them for oil or gas. (They smell different so I hope you know the difference).

They should be gray in color so if they are covered in black you've likely narrowed down your problem to an oil issue (valve cover gasket) or fuel issue (leaky injectors).

While you are in there I would check the gap on the spark plugs. A gapping tool is like $1 at any auto parts store. It's a cheap fix to see if your spark plugs are simply worn out. Over time the gap increases.

You want the gap to be 028" (0.7mm).

I would clean them with carb cleaner also.

Come back for more advise after you do that. That is the cheapest place to start and get answers.

[1nityrider]

Question: If you have codes for vanos intake and low fuel pressure sensor. You replace the vanos and fuel sensor. Do you have to clear the faults/code for the car to run properly?

[carlsontheflyer]

Originally Posted by 1nityrider

Question: If you have codes for vanos intake and low fuel pressure sensor. You replace the vanos and fuel sensor. Do you have to clear the faults/code for the car to run properly?

No, you do not. The computer will immediately detect that everything is working properly, but the codes will remain for some time. They *should* clear themselves eventually. The SES light should go off, and the codes will get a letter "H" in front of it signifying a historical code.

[1nityrider]

Originally Posted by carlsontheflyer

No, you do not. The computer will immediately detect that everything is working properly, but the codes will remain for some time. They *should* clear themselves eventually. The SES light should go off, and the codes will get a letter "H" in front of it signifying a historical code.

Thanks!
I had those codes on my cars after taking it to the dealership. The replaced the fuel sensor. I replaced the intake vanos. SES lights comes again after I replace the vanos. I talked to the dealership and they are telling me to bring it in and they will charge me $50 to clear the codes and it should fix the problem. I have being doubting cuz it happens the most between gear 4-6 on low rpm and low speed. Car hesitates. If I let off the gas it's fine. I continue it throws SES light and goes into limp mode. When I turn off the car and turn it back on, all is fine.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Originally Posted by 1nityrider

Thanks!
I had those codes on my cars after taking it to the dealership. The replaced the fuel sensor. I replaced the intake vanos. SES lights comes again after I replace the vanos. I talked to the dealership and they are telling me to bring it in and they will charge me $50 to clear the codes and it should fix the problem. I have being doubting cuz it happens the most between gear 4-6 on low rpm and low speed. Car hesitates. If I let off the gas it's fine. I continue it throws SES light and goes into limp mode. When I turn off the car and turn it back on, all is fine.

If the problem still persist then something is still wrong with your car.

[carlsontheflyer]

Originally Posted by 1nityrider

Thanks!
I had those codes on my cars after taking it to the dealership. The replaced the fuel sensor. I replaced the intake vanos. SES lights comes again after I replace the vanos. I talked to the dealership and they are telling me to bring it in and they will charge me $50 to clear the codes and it should fix the problem. I have being doubting cuz it happens the most between gear 4-6 on low rpm and low speed. Car hesitates. If I let off the gas it's fine. I continue it throws SES light and goes into limp mode. When I turn off the car and turn it back on, all is fine.

Don't let the dealership rob you of $50 to clear the codes. Stop by any autoparts store, like Autozone, and they will usually do it for free. Besides, clearing the codes doesn't fix anything. It just turns off the CEL for a little while, but if there is a malfunction, the codes and the CEL will return.

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

If the problem still persist then something is still wrong with your car.

+1 to that.

[mcpcolas]

Originally Posted by Jeff@TopGearSolutions

Just misfire codes? Any shadow codes for fuel? Some indy shops only have generic code readers and can't read shadow codes from BMW. Those shadow codes from BMW diagnostic tools will likely have the answer we need.

I would first pull the plugs as they can tell you a lot.

First thing I would do is check them for oil or gas. (They smell different so I hope you know the difference).

They should be gray in color so if they are covered in black you've likely narrowed down your problem to an oil issue (valve cover gasket) or fuel issue (leaky injectors).

While you are in there I would check the gap on the spark plugs. A gapping tool is like $1 at any auto parts store. It's a cheap fix to see if your spark plugs are simply worn out. Over time the gap increases.

You want the gap to be 028" (0.7mm).

I would clean them with carb cleaner also.

Come back for more advise after you do that. That is the cheapest place to start and get answers.

i had the codes pull again today at a shop that specialize in German cars. he pulled the same codes, plus a shadow code for the thermostat . and he's 99.9% sure its my coils . so tomorrow im gonna stop at bmw and purchase three coils . 6 plugs and that special tool to remove them. ill keep u guys posted . for piece of mind i might just purchase the extended warranty i was quoted at $2800

[Bimmer305]

Delete all codes and drive the car to see what codes comes up.

If all three codes come up again, then it is not the coil. Never heard of all three coils going bad at the same time.