[sourphish]

I wanted to get your thoughts on the following symptoms I experienced tonight. I drive a 2007 335i e92 6MT currently with 68k miles, and I had the water pump and thermostat changed 2 months / 5k miles ago with Tischer's waterpump kit, as preventative since I knew I would be driving a lot this year.

It was about 60F degrees out and I had been driving on the freeway for about 30 minutes at a cruising speed when all of a sudden, I couldn't accelerate past 70mph anymore or go pass 2.5k rpm. The engine radiator fan kicks it to max speed and is very loud now. I notice that my oil temp gauge says I'm at about 170F when my normal operating temperature is usually 220-240. No lights or warning messages are going off on the dash or I-drive.

I don't have a BT tool to scan for codes either...

Any thoughts on this? Could it be the water pump failing already?

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by sourphish

I wanted to get your thoughts on the following symptoms I experienced tonight. I drive a 2007 335i e92 6MT currently with 68k miles, and I had the water pump and thermostat changed 2 months / 5k miles ago with Tischer's waterpump kit, as preventative since I knew I would be driving a lot this year.

It was about 60F degrees out and I had been driving on the freeway for about 30 minutes at a cruising speed when all of a sudden, I couldn't accelerate past 70mph anymore or go pass 2.5k rpm. The engine radiator fan kicks it to max speed and is very loud now. I notice that my oil temp gauge says I'm at about 170F when my normal operating temperature is usually 220-240. No lights or warning messages are going off on the dash or I-drive.

I don't have a BT tool to scan for codes either...

Any thoughts on this? Could it be the water pump failing already?

Yes, it sounds like a water pump. I'd have someone pull codes asap.

Neil

[135Pats]

Gotta be water pump.

[BAL278]

water pump.. just happened to me over the weekend, replaced the water pump a t-stat and I'm back in action today

[pwr hungry]

Sounds like a water pump, but you said you just replaced it two months ago...

[MMMCOOKIES55]

You could always perform the water pump function test to see if its pumping fluid up to the reservoir. In case you do not know how:

-Car on, engine off (key in, press start without foot on brake)
-Open your hood and take the reservoir cap off (make sure engine is cool!)
-Put your hvac Temp all the way to 84 on both sides at the lowest fan speed
-press and hold the gas pedal for approx. 25-30 seconds
-at this point you should here the water pump shaft rotating, pumping fluid up into the reservoir. You will see fluid entering the reservoir from the front of it, if not, the pump has failed.

[Bluesnake01]

Originally Posted by MMMCOOKIES335...

You could always perform the water pump function test to see if its pumping fluid up to the reservoir. In case you do not know how:

-Car on, engine off (key in, press start without foot on brake)
-Open your hood and take the reservoir cap off (make sure engine is cool!)
-Put your hvac Temp all the way to 84 on both sides at the lowest fan speed
-press and hold the gas pedal for approx. 25-30 seconds
-at this point you should here the water pump shaft rotating, pumping fluid up into the reservoir. You will see fluid entering the reservoir from the front of it, if not, the pump has failed.

Do this, its the same process you do after you install a new water pump.

I would hate to see it being the water pump again. Mine did the same exact crap before it took a crap on me. Did the yellow then red reduced engine symbol pop out?

[sourphish]

Thanks everyone for the responses!

Originally Posted by MMMCOOKIES335...

You could always perform the water pump function test to see if its pumping fluid up to the reservoir. In case you do not know how:

-Car on, engine off (key in, press start without foot on brake)
-Open your hood and take the reservoir cap off (make sure engine is cool!)
-Put your hvac Temp all the way to 84 on both sides at the lowest fan speed
-press and hold the gas pedal for approx. 25-30 seconds
-at this point you should here the water pump shaft rotating, pumping fluid up into the reservoir. You will see fluid entering the reservoir from the front of it, if not, the pump has failed.

Thanks! I didn't know this. I did it and seems to be working as it should.

Originally Posted by Bluesnake01

Do this, its the same process you do after you install a new water pump.

I would hate to see it being the water pump again. Mine did the same exact crap before it took a crap on me. Did the yellow then red reduced engine symbol pop out?

No lights came on. It was like a limp mode without any yellow or red warnings.

I guess my water pump and t-stat that I just replaced 2 months ago with brand new is faulty or flakey.

[Bluesnake01]

Maybe could be the thermostat only? Probably doesnt open up all the way like it should

[Rickygst]

Who changed it? It still should be under warranty, BMW have a 2 year warranty on parts I believe.

[pwr hungry]

Originally Posted by Bluesnake01

Maybe could be the thermostat only? Probably doesnt open up all the way like it should

His oil is getting up past 170*, would be more likely it's stuck open and not allowing the engine to properly heat up.

[Bluesnake01]

Originally Posted by pwr hungry

His oil is getting up past 170*, would be more likely it's stuck open and not allowing the engine to properly heat up.

But the fans are on, no reason why they should be on even less loud unless its getting hot. When my WP/TS went out, my oil temps looked perfectly fine. They were somewhere in the 180*'s but I still got the reduced engine light.

[pwr hungry]

Originally Posted by Bluesnake01

But the fans are on, no reason why they should be on even less loud unless its getting hot. When my WP/TS went out, my oil temps looked perfectly fine. They were somewhere in the 180*'s but I still got the reduced engine light.

Hmmm...interesting. Mine failed on me as well, but I don't recall the oil temp as it was a few years ago.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by Bluesnake01

But the fans are on, no reason why they should be on even less loud unless its getting hot. When my WP/TS went out, my oil temps looked perfectly fine. They were somewhere in the 180*'s but I still got the reduced engine light.

Your coolant temps could still be too high -- and trigger limp-home mode, despite your oil being 170F.

Neil

[Allen@MOTIV]

Engine coolant temps respond to engine overheating conditions MUCH faster than oil temperature. Oil temps can be normal while coolant temps are very hot.

You will need to pull codes to be sure.

[Bluesnake01]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

Your coolant temps could still be too high -- and trigger limp-home mode, despite your oil being 170F.

Neil

Originally Posted by Allen@PTF

Engine coolant temps respond to engine overheating conditions MUCH faster than oil temperature. Oil temps can be normal while coolant temps are very hot.

You will need to pull codes to be sure.

Agreed! Which is why I said that the TS might be closed and not opening up like its supposed to regardless of what the oil temps say.

[sourphish]

Thanks for the responses everyone, I'll try to pull codes this weekend.

It was weird because my oil was around 220 since I had been driving awhile, then noticed the loss of power and high radiator fan RPM, and then the oil temp dropped gradually to 170F over maybe ~10mins?

[sourphish]

Scanned the car and had 2 codes stored:
2EE3: Coolant temperature sensor, plausibility, gradient
2FBF: Release on injection

FYI, did some searching around and some people had the codes trip because of JB4 or Procede, or failing pump. I've had a JB4 for a long time and never had it tripped. There wasn't a one-size-fits-all solution though.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=395973