[datbimmer]

What would be the best things to do or to improve on the N54 to make sure it lives a nice long and healthy life ? Especially since most of them are modded... ?

[stanlalee]

Downpipes and a rich stage 1 tune. Lower back pressure and EGTs will extend turbo life (theoretically). The engine itself it bullet proof. Now if you put downpipes on and turn around and ring out all its worth your back to square one (which is still a long healthy life IMO). The major things that go wrong on this car are not upgradable (except turbos). The water pump and oil gaskets seem to be the main things so they just have to be replaced as needed.

[crzylildude]

Just pop this in and let's see what happens "LONGEVITY" .... Sorry I'm trollin forgive me

A "For Sale" sign.

[CHECKERED]

Originally Posted by datbimmer

What would be the best things to do or to improve on the N54 to make sure it lives a nice long and healthy life ? Especially since most of them are modded... ?

upgraded oil cooler.
upgrade trans cooler if auto
Use good oil (like Motul 8100 X-cess)
Downpipes like others said,
keep stock intake for maximum air filtration.
I would say meth injection with very minimal boost additive, helps clean the inside of the engine, control carbon build up, no knock

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by CHECKERED

upgraded oil cooler.
upgrade trans cooler if auto
Use good oil (like Motul 8100 X-cess)
Downpipes like others said,
keep stock intake for maximum air filtration.
I would say meth injection with very minimal boost additive, helps clean the inside of the engine, control carbon build up, no knock

Agree with this list, but would add a BMS occ and a RB pcv valve

Neil

[JStang]

FMIC will help out quite a bit in the long run as well. Basically all bolt on mods without a tune will help things flow better.

[123Britt]

“Redline is Group V (polyol ester) based (POE or esters).

“Amsoil and Mobil-1 are Group IV (poly-alpha olefin) based (PAO or synthesized hydrocarbons SHC).

“Castrol Syntec and all the others calling themselves synthetic are Group III (hydrocracked slack wax).

“The petroleum motor alls are all mineral oil based and make up Group II.

”We really should group Red Line by itself, and put the others in separate categories (according to the groups) because their performance is so different

[comablaqq]

An oil catch can is important. There's oily, carbony vapors from the crankcase that get circled through the engine that get sent to the catch can instead of your inlet port.

[MDORPHN]

Originally Posted by 123Britt

“Redline is Group V (polyol ester) based (POE or esters).

“Amsoil and Mobil-1 are Group IV (poly-alpha olefin) based (PAO or synthesized hydrocarbons SHC).

“Castrol Syntec and all the others calling themselves synthetic are Group III (hydrocracked slack wax).

“The petroleum motor alls are all mineral oil based and make up Group II.

”We really should group Red Line by itself, and put the others in separate categories (according to the groups) because their performance is so different

Motul 300V -- which I run in my 1M -- is also a Group V oil.

Neil

[Jklad]

Have you folks running the group v oils noticed any different behavior or observations from your cars?

Also, is it ok to switch to a group V oil if one has been using BMW oil for 100k miles? (Changed evry 6k).

[MDORPHN]

Based on Blackstone oil analyses, my engine shows significantly less wear when I run Motul 300V. Mind you, I spend a lot of time on the track (road courses) and really push my car.

And no problem switching oil.

Neil

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

Based on Blackstone oil analyses, my engine shows significantly less wear when I run Motul 300V. Mind you, I spend a lot of time on the track (road courses) and really push my car.

And no problem switching oil.

Neil

Nice! Post up a report...would be nice to compare.

[135Pats]

Motul

300V or XCESS are outstanding oils.

[joro2077]

Originally Posted by 135Pats

Motul

300V or XCESS are outstanding oils.

+1

[datbimmer]

Just to clarify,
I have JB4, AFE intake, Charge pipe with tial bov, downpipes.

About the oil catch can, is there a DIY ?

What is "BMS occ and a RB pcv valve" ?

I do not plan on adding Meth injection.

Thanks for the info !

[ThaiRacer]

Oil catch can and PCV valve just look it up on that.

[phubar]

My car didn't like the BMS OCC, it started smoking BAD and leaking oil from oil pan and rear main seal, took it off and it stopped smoking right away and the leaks appear to have stopped (I have yet to clean it up and reinspect, but no more drips in garage). My car has 120k miles so maybe for a younger engine it wont matter but for longevity I wouldn't recommend an OCC. I do have the upgraded RB PCV tho.

[E90gone]

Where are you guys getting the Motul 300V from? I can't find it anywhere. Also, which one are you'll running. Every one I find says it for motorcycles.

Originally Posted by E90gone

Where are you guys getting the Motul 300V from? I can't find it anywhere.

By "anywhere" have you excluded the interweb as well?

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by MDORPHN

Based on Blackstone oil analyses, my engine shows significantly less wear when I run Motul 300V. Mind you, I spend a lot of time on the track (road courses) and really push my car.

And no problem switching oil.

Neil

Thanks, Are the grp V oils ok for daily driving, or meant only for aggressive/tracking purposes?

Any other anecdotal observations from when anyone switched over to group V from BMW branded oil?

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by datbimmer

Just to clarify,
I have JB4, AFE intake, Charge pipe with tial bov, downpipes.

About the oil catch can, is there a DIY ?

What is "BMS occ and a RB pcv valve" ?

I do not plan on adding Meth injection.

Thanks for the info !

Go to the BMS website, all products have DIYs. An OCC is simple. Rob's PCV valve is just a replacement for the stock valve, which is not a particularly well engineered piece. The entire venting system is poor on this car IMO. Just ends up dumping oil into the rear turbo.