[gangzoom]

I've been meaning to upgrade the oil cooler in the 335 for a while now, decided about 2-3 months ago I would stop modding the 335 but since I had already ordered the ER oil cooler thought I might as well install it....

The ER oil cooler is MASSIVE, it makes the stock cooler look quite pathetic in comparison, and I went for it because of reported problems with various other coolers.

We all know the N54 has a cooling issue, BMW upgraded the cooling for the N55, but in my N54 335 I would hit 130-140 oil temp when pushing the car, and given the engine will start reduction output to protect components at 148, I would back off and let the temp fall rather than hitting any kind of limp mode...Therefore you can see why I was keen to get better cooling.

It's still early days with the ER cooler but so far oil temp hasn't gone above 130 no matter how hard I push the car...cannot wait to have a free weekend to really see how good the cooler is (still need to wait for my new disc/pads to bed in fully before pushing too hard).

A few 'issues' with the install though:

1: The Right front fog light had to go, there just wasn't enough space for it with the new cooler.

Not a huge deal but the hole left doesn't look good, and offers the cooler no protection from road debris...


So out came the hacksaw, and a bit of fiddling latter got the lens cap back in the hole, so all looking OEM again


2: Oil lines rubbing against things..

The oils lines that came with the ER kit is about twice as thick as the OEM lines, and I had read about lines been ruptured due to contact with various other bits in the engine from other forum memebrs. I really didn't want to wake up one day and find a massive puddle of oil on the drive way.

During the initial install there was no problems with the lines and clearance but after a week I checked, and due to heat/movement one of the lines was making contact with radiator housing....I can see how if left unchecked this will eventually cause line failure...

So this morning did a DIY protection job by wrapping the line with a old bike tyre, and than securing it all in place. The RED arrows are where the line was touching the radiator housing. The white stuff was a temp fix I did mid week to stop the lines from been damaged.


So all in all its NOT a straight forwards replacement, and I still have some concerns about longterm reliability (have kept the old cooler just in case I need to revert back to OEM). But overall I'm happy, and the two issues highlighted are easy to solve, but I'm glad I read up on the line failure issues on the forum, otherwise I wouldn't have double checked, and no doubt found out the hard way

I can now FINALLY say the car is done interms of modifications, this really was the final mod to go on the car, now time to start saving for the next car in earnest :roll eyes:.

[gangzoom]

Just a quick update:

With new cooler installed, air temp of 22 degrees, running 14 psi boost, 40 minutes of 'spirited' driving, oil temps never went above 120. Previously same drive/conditions would see close to 135-140, so very happy

Coded out the fog light error message, so to 99.9% of the public car looks same as before, if you want a decent oil cooler I can fully recommend the ER one

[Greg330]

Literally just came on to look at oil temps and what is safe as was pushing over 130 last night and backed off as wasn't sure when hot was too hot!

Will remember its 148 when it goes into limp and ok up to then....

Out of interest is there a UK supplier for the ER oil cooler?

[MAN15H]

My car regularly goes into limp mode when I'm driving it hard on a hot day but instead of replacing the cooler I was thinking about getting these Low Temperature Thermostats:

http://www.n54tuning.com/index.php?_...d0a541b6b1df2f

Has anyone else used this simple little device and if so what results have you seen?

[idnan]

Originally Posted by MAN15H

My car regularly goes into limp mode when I'm driving it hard on a hot day but instead of replacing the cooler I was thinking about getting these Low Temperature Thermostats:

http://www.n54tuning.com/index.php?_...d0a541b6b1df2f

Has anyone else used this simple little device and if so what results have you seen?

I have one and it does lower the oil temp by a few degrees but I suggest you find out what is causing your limp mode as I highly doubt it is the oil temp needs to be above 148 as mentioned above to go into limp mode for that reason. Since all UK cars have an oil cooler, I just don't see that as a cause. You need to find out what is causing the limp mode rather than trying a cheap fix IMO.

[MAN15H]

Originally Posted by idnan

I have one and it does lower the oil temp by a few degrees but I suggest you find out what is causing your limp mode as I highly doubt it is the oil temp needs to be above 148 as mentioned above to go into limp mode for that reason. Since all UK cars have an oil cooler, I just don't see that as a cause. You need to find out what is causing the limp mode rather than trying a cheap fix IMO.

Thanks for the reply and sorry for the thread hijack.

Here are some of the codes my car is currently kicking out:

Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fehler: Controlled air flow / controlled air management: activating
Code: 2F0D
Fehler: :Boost pressure control
Code: 30FF
Fehler: :Boost pressure control
Code: 3100

Immobilizer System:
CAS
Fehler: brake light
Code: A0B0
Fehler: EWS4 fault
Code: A10A
Fehler: EWS4 fault
Code: A107
Fehler: EWS4 fault
Code: A108
Fehler: Steering lock fault
Code: A112
Fehler: STOP error
Code: A116

Instrument cluster:
Central info display / Zentrales Display
Fehler: Central control timeout
Code: A468


I guess I need to figure out what all this means before I work on the cooling.

I did read somewhere that the symptoms my car was going into limp mode may be related to something like precat o2 sensor..?

[idnan]

Originally Posted by MAN15H

Thanks for the reply and sorry for the thread hijack.

Here are some of the codes my car is currently kicking out:

Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fehler: Controlled air flow / controlled air management: activating
Code: 2F0D
Fehler: :Boost pressure control
Code: 30FF
Fehler: :Boost pressure control
Code: 3100

Immobilizer System:
CAS
Fehler: brake light
Code: A0B0
Fehler: EWS4 fault
Code: A10A
Fehler: EWS4 fault
Code: A107
Fehler: EWS4 fault
Code: A108
Fehler: Steering lock fault
Code: A112
Fehler: STOP error
Code: A116

Instrument cluster:
Central info display / Zentrales Display
Fehler: Central control timeout
Code: A468


I guess I need to figure out what all this means before I work on the cooling.

I did read somewhere that the symptoms my car was going into limp mode may be related to something like precat o2 sensor..?

You have a boost leak. 30ff is the code to show that and then the 3100 code is activation of the limp mode. The other code is something minor.

Check all your intercooler connections, charge pipe ones and diverter valves

[MAN15H]

Originally Posted by idnan

You have a boost leak. 30ff is the code to show that and then the 3100 code is activation of the limp mode. The other code is something minor.

Check all your intercooler connections, charge pipe ones and diverter valves

Cheers for that info. I recently fitted the Wagner intercooler so will check the connections on that but the limp mode has been on before that install...

Once again OP sorry for the hijack your info on the oil cooler is useful, but I'm surprised it was designed to allow the hoses to foul against the rad fan..? is that really the way they want that routed..?

[gangzoom]

None of the aftermarket coolers are perfect there simply isn't much space in the engine bay to run oil lines.....and even the mega expensive Dinan oil cooler have suffered from lines failure after been installed by an 'official' Dinan dealer.

I'm pretty happy with ER kit but there are no UK suppliers so had to buy direct from US. Install was a pain, but performance is perfect

[gangzoom]

UPDATE:

So the cooler has been on the car for a few weeks, half way through our trip in Europe I noticed some oil dripping from the car.

Had the car up on the ramp today, and it looks like despite the precautions used to secure/cooler lines one of them has still rubbed against the body work and developed a leak, I presume the fact the lines will expand with heat + vibrations from driving is to blame

I have to say I was warned about this when I enquired about fitting an after market oil cooler by Birds garage (infact they flat out said all after market coolers are prone to leaking, so don't recommend any brand).

Looking at the front of the engine bay it really is hard to see how you can fit bigger lines without it rubbing on something, so my mechanic is going to see if they can source some longer lines and run it OEM style over the top of the engine and than down into the cooler, but the OEM cooler lines have fixed rigid metal housing near the cooler, presumably to stop the lines from rubbing against things, so there may not be a satisfactory aftermarket solution....failing that I'll just get the stock oil cooler re-fitted.

So in short, aftermarket oil coolers = bad idea