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06-29-2025LAST POST
04-30-2024
Not that the world needs another thread about adding dual oil coolers to the 1-series, but here goes …

Like many before me, my installation uses a pair of 25-row Setrab Series 6 heat exchangers, plumbed in series using 10 AN flex hose and the OE thermostat. Where it differs from any other installation I have seen is that my heat exchangers are mounted vertically, and I have incorporated actual inlet and outlet ducting. In all the off-the-shelf kits I have seen ducting seems to be very much an afterthought.

Mechanical Installation

The primary structural element securing oil coolers is a plate sandwiched between the bumper crash beam and the chassis. This method is very simple and easily carries the vertical and lateral loads.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The plate also serves for mounting an exit plenum that closely fits the fender liner. By mounting the cooler somewhat ahead of the fender liner, there is room for a plenum which allows for an orderly exit air flow.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The oil cooler is secured to the plate via vibration isolating grommets and aluminum channel sections. A stay connects to the bumper crash beam to react fore/aft loads. The resulting installation is very solid.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Plumbing

Plumbing is typical 10 AN flex hose with reusable AN and 22 mm Boss fittings. I have incorporated a tee in the lower interconnect line that allows for full drainage of the system (the branch being capped off at the moment but intended to permit connection of an Accusump down the line). At the oil filter housing I am using Hard Motorsports AN adapters (not impressed - I recommend spending more on any other brand).

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Exit Plenum

Whereas the OE installation places the oil cooler hard up against the louver (and calls it a duct), my installation does actually provide a plenum/duct. I like the OE louver design because it protects the oil cooler from grit thrown up by the tires.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

LH Exit Louver

Unfortunately BMW doesn’t make a comparable LH louver, so I made my own by trimming the flange off a RH louver.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Then I welded a mirror image aluminum frame.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The louver element was then bonded in place. The resulting LH installation is mirror symmetrical to the OE RH louver.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Design Principles

A basic design principle for ducting heat exchangers is to expand the inlet air (with a diffuser) to reduce its velocity and increase its pressure at the face of the heat exchanger, and then contract it to increase its velocity and decrease its pressure at the exit. A rule of thumb (and the one I followed) is to have an inlet area of 20% of the radiator core area, and an exit area of 25% of the radiator core area (conveniently the OE louvers provide this). For the inlet to work well, the expansion must be gradual enough not to result in flow separation in the duct.

Intake Duct

My inlet duct went through many iterations. Many models were printed on card stock, cut out, assembled and tested for flow characteristics. The final configuration was fabricated from TIG welded 0.050” 6061T6 aluminum.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

I will follow up in a later post with some details of the testing process, and how the duct design ended up as it did. The ducts are identical on the LH and RH side of the car, which is somewhat convenient. I have previously described my brake cooling duct modification. As part of this installation I also built a new lower radiator/intercooler inlet duct. All three are visible in the following image.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

I have had one track day since these modifications, and that was cold and damp, so not a good opportunity to see how effective the oil cooling is. That will have to wait for another day.
05-02-2024
This is great looking… I believe people would be very interested in something like this.
05-03-2024
fe1rx's user avatarfe1rx Nice job on the oil cooler mount. Looking at the oil cooler for my car, and you pretty much confirmed my thoughts on the AN adaptor you used. It just seems like a poor design.
05-03-2024
rackhenry wrote
fe1rx's user avatarfe1rx Nice job on the oil cooler mount. Looking at the oil cooler for my car, and you pretty much confirmed my thoughts on the AN adaptor you used. It just seems like a poor design.
Thanks. I can't say the AN adapter design is bad. Quite a few manufacturers use the same basic design. As an example, ECS lists 4 different manufacturers for essentially the same part:

https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/oil_cooler_line_fitting_adapter/

I chose the Hard Motorsport version simply based on price.

My complaint is that the blue aluminum fittings on the Hard version are not built to standard AN/MS flared fitting tolerances and/or they are not properly deburred. I rejected the first set I got and ECS send me another under warranty and it had the same problem. When everyhing is made correctly, AN flared nuts run on to flared fittings easily with finger pressure, which makes it easy to avoid cross-threading. The threads on the Hard adapters were tight on all AN flared nuts and could not be run on with just finger pressure.

The standard for AN/MS flared tube fittings is in the public domain (MS33656) so there is no excuse for Hard disregarding established design dimensions and tolerances.

I hope the other manufacturers do a better job, but who knows, maybe the same people make all of them.
05-10-2024
Truth
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
05-14-2024
I made quite a few mockup inlet ducts from card stock, installed them on the oil cooler, then used a shop vac to draw air through them and used smoke to examine the internal flow. The vacuum hookup replaced the exit louver.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Smoke was generated by using a titanium tetrachloride smoke stick, but a mineral oil boost leak smoke generator would likely work just as well. A smooth stream of smoke indicates laminar attached flow in the duct.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

I found it easy to achieve this on the back (concave) surface of all my duct models but all of them exhibited serious flow separation on the front (convex) surface. This was apparent when the smoke tendril turned into a fog.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

No amount of smoothing of profiles worked until I installed a splitter blade to divide the duct into two halves. Hence the final version was built with the splitter, and both channels flow well when tested as above.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The smoke test provides a good representation of how well the duct can flow air, but it is not representative of the actual inlet conditions in service. The smoke test draws from a large reservoir of still room air. In service the air is moving rapidly and is directed by the body contours. To see how that affected the flow in the duct I tufted up the final installation and installed a GoPro where it could observe the action.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Here it is apparent that the proximity of the brake cooling duct is influencing the flow entering the bottom of the oil cooler duct, as there is some separation on the two convex surfaces, particularly on the splitter blade. The high pressure above the front splitter may also be causing some upflow into the duct lower edge, with some flow separation over that lower corner resulting.

I have tufted the exit louver also. Visibility is poor but the tufts that can be seen flow laterally outboard as directed by the louver vanes. Tire rotation does not seem to particularly affect them.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

In conclusion I am happy that my air flows are reasonable, and I am looking forward to a hot track day to see how well the installation actually functions.
05-24-2024
As always, amazing work. So fun to read through and see your thought process and progression.
06-11-2024
Looking great!
10-29-2024
When you installed the tee fitting for an oil accumulator down the road, did you also incorporate a check valve? I've been reading people saying that you need one to flow oil in the right direction, where others say the pump does that and the check valve reduces flow.
10-30-2024
blnk-128 wrote
When you installed the tee fitting for an oil accumulator down the road, did you also incorporate a check valve? I've been reading people for them saying that you need it to flow oil in the right direction, where others say the pump does that and the check valve reduces flow.
The oil filter housing incorporates a check valve to prevent reverse flow, as is visible in the attached image. Therefore I think another check valve would be redundant, and I didn't incorporate one.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
12-17-2024
Any idea, by chance, what the small passage is directly next (below in this image) to the check valve? I was looking over oil flow paths the other day and can not figure out what’s going on there. Best I can tell it’s just the return path for the filter bypass but I’m not certain.
05-31-2025
scratchgolf135 wrote
Any idea, by chance, what the small passage is directly next (below in this image) to the check valve? I was looking over oil flow paths the other day and can not figure out what’s going on there. Best I can tell it’s just the return path for the filter bypass but I’m not certain.
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The filter bypass is part of the cap, not part of the housing. The small passage is blocked by the small green o-ring in the cap assembly. As you remove the cap this o-ring comes out of the hole and allows the oil in the filter housing to drain back to the crankcase.

Incidentally, the shitty looking gasket in this picture is the supposedly high-performance Viton seal from Bav Auto. Advertised to last 3 times longer than OE, this one lasted 1/3 as long (in an N52).
06-03-2025
Thanks, yes I had finally figured out that it was a drain and the black springed piece is just a backflow preventer. I was setting up an oil filter housing delete and needed to know what was what but the Fram HP1 filter I have will take care of the backflow and bypass so I should be good.
06-22-2025
My oil cooler installation was built with a tee in the cross-feed line as a provision for future installation of an Accusump. The future is now.

MECHANICAL INSTALLATION

The choices for mounting an Accusump are in the engine bay, in the cabin/trunk, and under the rear bumper crash beam. My car still has the original air intake, which I wanted to retain, and this precludes installation in the engine bay. Philosophically I am averse to bringing engine fluids through the cabin, both from a heat and crash safety perspective. That led me inevitably, but not directly, to a location under the rear crash beam. I have a custom tow hitch, which functions to support my rear diffuser, as well as allowing me to be self-supporting at the track with a small Leroy Paddock tire trailer. Conveniently it provides just enough space to fit a standard 3-quart Accusump.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

That location does conflict with the central axle-back exhaust hanger, so that had to be removed from the chassis, and I had to modify my custom axle-back with a different RH hanger pin.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

I repurposed the removed hanger after reforming the shape, and I installed it with gusset plates identical to my LH hanger.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The trailer hitch required the addition of a mating hanger.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The result correctly levels up and supports the exhaust.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Resolving the various installation issues required a lot of access.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The standard Accusump mounts include T-bolt band clamps, which have a bit of bling factor, but were a bit too bulky to fit in the available space. I cut them off their bases and replaced them with standard gear/band clamps, which are more compact.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

PLUMBING

The Accusump anticipates ½ NPT fittings and 10 AN braided hose. I used one continuous length of hose from crossover tee to the Accusump valve, terminated with a 45° fitting at the engine end and a 90° fitting at the Accusump end. The overall length of this hose is 172 inches, which is exactly what I received when I ordered 14 ft, thinking that to be safely conservative. It happily worked out to be exactly correct for my desired routing.

Routing to the rear bumper and not passing through the cabin is a bit of a challenge. My full flat underbody is spaced down from the jack pads which gave me a bit more room, but just enough to pass past the front RH jack pad location. Another route following the main power cable feed-through is also available in this location, if you were to attempt to repeat a similar installation in a car without a full aero underbody. That routing takes it through the wheel well which I was not keen on. My routing took the line within a radiant heating sightline of the exhaust, which is its own challenge. So getting past the engine will be a compromise in all cases.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

To keep the heat in the oil line, and to protect it from abrasion I covered it with a silicone firesleeve for its entire length (McMaster Carr 8772K11). Where it passes within a radiant heating sightline of the exhaust, I supplemented it with a heat-reflective corrugated sleeving (McMaster Carr 7293K4).

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The tubing is supported at frequent intervals using primarily MS21919 cushioned clamps.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Routing over the rear subframe is “impossible”, I passed the line under the subframe and RH half-shaft.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Controlling the line adequately required adding a rivnut and standoff to the subframe.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Passing by the charcoal cannister (removed in the next image) is a bit tight.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The Accusump EPC (electrical) valve is attached directly to the Accusump using the supplied ½ NPT union, with a straight AN816-10D pipe nipple.

Because my AiM dash logger has the ability to control the valve, I did not order a pressure switch with the valve, so the pressure switch port was plugged with the supplied ¼ NPT pipe plug. (The version without a pressure switch is p/n 24-270X.)


ELECTRICAL

The EPC valve is supplied with pigtail leads. I terminated these with a 2-pin Deutsch DTM connector.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Chassis wiring is 20 AWG. It passes into the cabin via a grommet installed in an existing hole on the left side of the bumper. The ground wire is terminated at an existing ground comb, using a BMW crimp fitting (61131387142).

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The AiM MXS 1.2 dash logger provides two “digital outputs” that can be used to control external devices. They are normally open and switched to ground on command by the logger. They are suitable for controlling relays as opposed to significant loads directly.

When I stripped out my unused interior wiring, I stowed and capped several un-needed circuits in the vicinity of the driver’s seat, for potential future use. Fuse 59 (5A) was suitable for the Accusump control, so I recommissioned this circuit. The EPC valve draws about 2 Amps. I chose a relay that incorporates a suppression diode to keep any voltage spikes away from the dash logger.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

My driver’s side subwoofer has been removed, and I have repurposed the plastic housing to contain expansions of the logger data channels. This same location provided a convenient location to mount the control relay. I wired in provisions for the second digital output but have no particular plans for this circuit at the moment.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

Installing the speaker grille makes for a very tidy installation that is readily accessible by simply removing the driver’s seat.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster


CONTROL

I have programmed the dash logger so that the steering wheel up arrow opens the EPC valve. This provides a convenient way to use the Accusump for pre-oiling, and for draining it during oil changes.

Any parameter recorded by the logger can in principle be used to control the valve, but the logical choices are oil pressure and rpm. I have tried a few variations using one or both of these parameters. I will follow up with some test results.
06-25-2025
Awesome, I'm about to install a 2qrt accusump myself but wondering where to install it. Not much space in the engine bay so might install in the trunk but wondering how much more oil I'll need running a line all the way to the trunk
06-25-2025
Grimm5698 wrote
Awesome, I'm about to install a 2qrt accusump myself but wondering where to install it. Not much space in the engine bay so might install in the trunk but wondering how much more oil I'll need running a line all the way to the trunk
Based on an ID of 0.56" and a length of 14 ft the trapped volume in the hose is about 3/4 US Quarts. This volume is unusable of course. Based on my results, I would definitely recommend a 3 quart unit if you have the space to mount it, because when the valve opens, the oil gets used up pretty quickly.
06-27-2025
Fantastic implementation that got me thinking, what's your strategy for setting and maintaining overall oil volume during a track day?

Let's say you fill the Accusump at engine idle (~30psi). Mid-corner high rpm driving will force oil into the Accusump reducing oil available to the pickup, expediting the pressure drop. This will let the system get below 30psi faster, at which point the Accusump starts to help.

The alternative is filling at a higher pressure, let's say 40psi, and at idle your accusump dumps oil into your pan leading to some overfill. This would be my preference even if not ideal. With your Aim setup, it sounds like you were alluding to creating a rpm/pressure map to avoid opening the valve at idle.

Accounting for oil burn and assuming the Accusump opens and closes at a constant pressure, when coming off track the Accusump will be greedy and maintiain its homeostasis point. I'm thinking the oil burn could be measured with the oil pan level sensor, and you fill up to 74mm before the next session?

Looking forward to the updates and data logs!
06-29-2025
blnk-128 wrote
Let's say you fill the Accusump at engine idle (~30psi). Mid-corner high rpm driving will force oil into the Accusump reducing oil available to the pickup, expediting the pressure drop. This will let the system get below 30psi faster, at which point the Accusump starts to help.
Every setup I have tried keeps the EPC valve closed below 2500 rpm as all track driving is above this value. Under normal circumstances the oil pressure will have reached 80 psi by 2500 rpm so the Accusump is always charged with this oil pressure. The EPC valve has a check valve that allows it to fill, even when it is closed.

Also, a cold start immediately sees at least 80 psi, even at idle. A hot start does not, but the 2500 rpm setting ensures that the Accusump will always start out at 80 psi, and once on track normal oil pressure will keep it there, until called on by a command to open the EPC valve.

An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster
An image attached to this post, provided by the poster

The measured warmup characteristics (oil pressure vs oil temperature) allowed me to decide that 60° could be considered “warmed up”. My dash is programmed to give me a cold oil notification below 60° as a reminder to take it easy.

As for filling the system, I used the process I detailed in the post below, except that the associated oil volumes got revised in the process.

https://www.1addicts.com/forums/showpost.php?p=30708612&postcount=1

The readings were taken with the Accusump pre-charged with 15 psi air and filled with oil at about 80 psi and the Accusump at room temperature.

From completely drained, this is what I observed:

Added 9.5 liters – read 38 mm
Added 1.0 liter – read 68 mm
Added 0.5 liter – read 74 mm

I conclude that with my setup, 11 liters total oil volume represents overfilling the crankcase by about 0.5 liters, which is my goal. The temperature of the Accusump will affect exactly how much oil it holds at 80 psi, hotter meaning less.

When changing oil, after discharging the Accusump there will be some undrainable oil in the system, so I will follow the same procedure each time I change the oil, rather than simply assume how much oil I need to add.