DSC Malfunction Yes again but different issue not like the TVA issue?

[Grail05]

So, i got the infamous DSC, DBS, Yellow Brake Light about 2 weeks ago its on and off like the rest of people that had the same issue. BUT

I brought my car to the dealer and stated that they found multiple under voltage faults stored in DME, I replaced my battery 1/1/2 ago with a AGM Duralast battery i got from sears with the same specs as the OEM and had it coded/registered at a very reputable shot here in SOCAL...

but the dealer stated that they could not diagnose without replacing the battery with OEM first to see if that would fix the issue, but after seeing a lot of people with the same issue on the throttle actuator with the same symptoms i assume that would be it...

just wanted to see if other owners had this issue here before. I already expected that it will be my TVA but in this case can it cause an Engine light issue if battery just a year and half old throw a code... if the battery was low voltage would it just register as battery low?

second is that the dealer cleared faults and adaptation and test it if it will come out again. since my battery is giving them under voltage they advised that they could not diagnose it until i replace the battery.


Like everyone my symptoms are

lights goes on, shut the car then engine lights goes away, then after 5-10 miles it goes back on again.. then shut it down then goes away again.

Even with the engine light on the only thing that is weird is the limp mode rev limited to 4k.

when i shut the car off and back on everything is back to normal. If it was the battery under voltage wouldnt it show up every start up?


I already paid 160 for diagnose since im out of warranty, I love doing DIY jobs that way i know its done correctly, ive done everything to my car and at 88k ive had zero issues other then the low pressure fuel sensor that i replaced 3 years ago, and all maintenance done Tranny to diff and engine.


any advise is appreciated.

this is the information i got from the dealer.

[Grail05]

bump... hoping someone can chime in.

[MilehighM3]

There is a functional test they should run on the throttles. It will check both banks individually and perform a number of tests on them, such as opening and closing time, position etc. Battery voltage level should be irrelevant as they should be using a battery charger while performing these tests.

[Grail05]

Originally Posted by MilehighM3

There is a functional test they should run on the throttles. It will check both banks individually and perform a number of tests on them, such as opening and closing time, position etc. Battery voltage level should be irrelevant as they should be using a battery charger while performing these tests.

I was advise that they could not diagnose it if it was giving them under voltage that it cant pass the test without replacing the battery first and the end of the test computer stated on their end that i have to replace the battery?

[MilehighM3]

Originally Posted by Sean05

I was advise that they could not diagnose it if it was giving them under voltage that it cant pass the test without replacing the battery first and the end of the test computer stated on their end that i have to replace the battery?

That diagnosis is nonsense. The fact that it's aftermarket doesn't make it unacceptable for use in the vehicle. I would ask them what the state of charge was at the time of diagnosis, and if they performed the energy diagnosis test plan to verify the battery's health. If not then having under voltage faults means nothing because that may be an older fault that's totally irrelevant to your symptom. Also if they didn't perform energy diagnosis, what took an hour to diagnose? Performing a vehicle test (checking faults) takes < 5 minutes and they didn't spend the time that you've already paid them for. That would explain the incomplete/juvenile diagnosis attempt. In which case they need to diagnose it again, correctly and completely, and take ownership of the charges themselves this time.

[Grail05]

Originally Posted by MilehighM3

That diagnosis is nonsense. The fact that it's aftermarket doesn't make it unacceptable for use in the vehicle. I would ask them what the state of charge was at the time of diagnosis, and if they performed the energy diagnosis test plan to verify the battery's health. If not then having under voltage faults means nothing because that may be an older fault that's totally irrelevant to your symptom. Also if they didn't perform energy diagnosis, what took an hour to diagnose? Performing a vehicle test (checking faults) takes < 5 minutes and they didn't spend the time that you've already paid them for. That would explain the incomplete/juvenile diagnosis attempt. In which case they need to diagnose it again, correctly and completely, and take ownership of the charges themselves this time.

Thanks i was exactly thinking the same thing thats why i had all these questions. Anyways i have been driving for 15 miles and no lights usually it comes out at 5-10 miles but it may be too early to say..

I called Sears and advised them that the dealer stated that the battery is giving an error that was giving under voltage error, they agreed to replace it with a new one... Its a little hard to just throw $225 for an OEM battery if im still under warranty with my sears battery and its OEM Specs...

and if the issue still comes up i will bring it back to the dealer and address the issue you mentioned. I PAID $160 for the thorough inspection but i guess i did not get that.

Again thanks for your help.

[MilehighM3]

No problem. Feel free to PM me if you have another warning, further questions or concerns.

[Grail05]

Originally Posted by MilehighM3

No problem. Feel free to PM me if you have another warning, further questions or concerns.

ok even with new battery im still getting the error engine light on. I have spoke to the Service Advisor and he insist that i need to replace the battery with OEM before a full diagnose can be perform. I was advised that they will not proceed without OEM battery and mentioned that go to the parts and the parts dept can hook it up for a good price and that they will register it for $60

Second, they also advised that registering the car it must be done at the dealer and he will charge me $60 thats on top of the $160 that i already paid for. They didnt do anything on my car and all they did was read the fault code and stated that it was due to under voltage.

I was a little frustrated when i was talking to the SA cause he wasnt making any sense at all saying that my battery is at fault and that it will go away if i put an OEM battery... it just doesnt make sense... i wanted them to diagnose it fully not just the battery error message they are getting, Keep in mind that its the same specs as OEM aftermarket or not its the same shit isnt it?

I know the BMW dealer has had good reputation here on the board but i guess majority of people issues are still under warranty, but i am out or warranty and im the DIY type of guy... and if i can save the cash i will in any way.

Also when my first day of bringing the car the SA stated to me how can someone else register that battery if that machine cost 30k... and advised me that no one can do it but BMW... so today i told him, even with a BT TOOL you can register it yourself and thats $170... with that said we argued about the battery thing that he cant do it and im $160 down the drain and they did not do anything.

so basically in short all i want is to find out what is wrong with my car by doing a full diagnose and pin point the issue. its as simple as that... we all know that majority of the issue is the throttle actuator or as simple as o2 sensor... but since i dont have the tools i opted for dealer to run a full diagnostics, but telling me that i have to replace my battery with OEM pay $230 plus 60 on registering the battery i think its BS cause we all know its not the case... again replacing the battery with new under sears warranty did not do the trick and i was still showing ENGINE light.

sorry for the rant but SHIT just doesn't make sense. Like you mentioned that diagnose is nonsense... The fact that it's aftermarket doesn't make it unacceptable for use in the vehicle.... I totally agree..

[Grail05]

has anyone else have this issue with battery issues? sounds like people have moved on to the M4/M3 F80 F82 forum... LOL

[Grail05]

ok guys i will be going back to the dealer and after talking to the Service manager he wanted me to bring the car back so they can fully diagnose the issue. im going to go ahead and bring it back and see exactly what the problem is...

my gut feeling is my Throttle actuator..

here is the code i got.
5e19
2b16

but of course i want to dealer to confirm...

will update everyone tomorrow currently car has 88k miles and im sure thats bound to die at that age...

[E90M3velocity]

You can try going to any of the venders in this forum to see if they can diagnose the car if the dealer falls through again. I replaced the throttle actuators, idle control unit, air pressure sensor, and fuel pressure sensor without any of them giving out a battery fault code before.

[Grail05]

Originally Posted by E90M3velocity

You can try going to any of the venders in this forum to see if they can diagnose the car if the dealer falls through again. I replaced the throttle actuators, idle control unit, air pressure sensor, and fuel pressure sensor without any of them giving out a battery fault code before.

Yea i will do that next... basically on my first attempt on going to the dealer all they did was cleared the code without a full diagnose and im not even sure if they really checked and probably just said it it was a battery fault due to aftermarket battery...

but i will find out tomorrow since the Service manager and informed me that they will fully diagnose the car this time.

but dang thats a lot you replaced. did all go out at once?

[E90M3velocity]

Originally Posted by Sean05

Yea i will do that next... basically on my first attempt on going to the dealer all they did was cleared the code without a full diagnose and im not even sure if they really checked and probably just said it it was a battery fault due to aftermarket battery...

but i will find out tomorrow since the Service manager and informed me that they will fully diagnose the car this time.

but dang thats a lot you replaced. did all go out at once?

Nope, started happening around the beginning of 2013. Started out with the air pressure sensor, fuel pressure sensor, throttle actuators, then recently the icv. I just read the codes carefully. Best of luck with that, I feel the pain of the car going into limp mode.

[Grail05]

Here is the update guys...

Throttle Valve Actuator Bank 2...

Dealer price $1900+
DIY price $830

[E90M3velocity]

[Grail05]

Originally Posted by E90M3velocity

Yea finally they pin point the issue.

now i have to wait 3-5 days if BMW NA will give me a Good Will or a discount price which im hoping for since im out of warranty...