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08-08-2016, 10:22 AM | #1 |
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Dyno Results: Baseline and with Active Autowerke mid pipe
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08-08-2016, 12:10 PM | #4 | |
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Thanks guys. Let's just be clear that my Dyno Dynamics is corrected to show more or so what a Dynojet would read. I will post up the uncorrected(heartbreak) numbers shortly. So if you understand how the dynos function the 490 run was really more reflective of BHP. I know many have varying opinions on this but this is how I see it. That said this is spot on to BMW M's claimed 493bhp. The torque is what impressed me! It is certainly over the rated #. As a note my car got about .2km of break in. From The Welt showroom to outside parking lot. Then the engine was driven quite hard. I avoided hard acceleration on turns and did not spin tyres for first 1500km to seat the differential properly. In a straight line on Autobahn it was balls out though
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08-09-2016, 12:22 PM | #9 |
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Awesome!
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08-09-2016, 12:58 PM | #10 |
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No. The lock rings are secured for lowest setting and maintains corner balance. When you go back to higher setting just go past the high point and install c clip, then bring the spring collar up to c clip. Balanced at the high point as well. I do not feel I will go back to high setting. It puts a lot of pre load on springs and the handling is compromised. The car is very balanced in lower position. Also, the front drops a bit more than rear so you are not looking up into the sky. Viewing is proper in lower setting.
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08-09-2016, 01:00 PM | #11 |
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08-09-2016, 02:42 PM | #12 | |
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Thats nice to hear. So if I am at small flat track I just lower it down, then up again for Nurburgring wich need street setting? All this whitout alignment etc. I like that, very easy then as I would think I am happy whit BMW factory setting( street For Nur and track setting For flat modern track)
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08-09-2016, 02:52 PM | #13 | |
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You can make the call on Nur setting. I did the BTG with it in street setting. I would like to try it in track setting.
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08-09-2016, 05:05 PM | #15 |
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Take out the c-clips and lower it to the race setting. That's 15mm front and 7mm rear lower than the street setting. But leave you dampers rebound and compression alone in the street setting.
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08-09-2016, 05:12 PM | #16 |
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Sorry for a potentially stupid question but how easy is to to change the ride height? Do it on the fly at the track or in your garage? Do you need to jack the car up at all? How long does it take?
Thanks in advance.
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08-09-2016, 05:23 PM | #17 |
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Barry, no stupid questions, only stupid answers You will need some mechanical know how to do rear. The inner lower control arm bolts have to come out and the shock bolts as well. Not difficult, but would not be easy laying on your back. With a hoist it should be 1 hour max.
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08-09-2016, 08:27 PM | #18 |
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Thx appreciate the not stupid answer!
Looks like I'm going to need to get it lowered at the dealer and leave it like that. Don't know why this is taking so long for us here......the wait is painful now that they've started dribbling out.... How about extending the front lip?
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08-09-2016, 08:49 PM | #19 | |
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08-09-2016, 08:50 PM | #20 | |
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Can you elaborate on the drawback of having more "pre-load" on the springs? I figure, that regardless of the pre-load on the fully extended suspension, once the weight of the car rests on the springs, the springs will compress by the same total amount regardless of initial pre-load. The spring rate remains constant, hence a given load put on the spring should result in the same displacement. Am I missing something? Is it a concern with limited suspension extension travel?
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08-09-2016, 08:54 PM | #21 |
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Great numbers!
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08-09-2016, 09:48 PM | #22 | ||
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