Water Injection Troubleshooting/Testing (water not being consumed)

[daveishi]

I just got back from my 3rd track day in the GTS and am now confident that it is not using any water at all.

I topped off the water tank when I bought it in October 2021 and after the first two track days thought it odd that I didn't need to add any water, however were are no errors popping up and didn't see anything with my code scanner. Also I always hear the pump purging the lines after I shut it down, it runs for about a minute so I figure the pump is ok.

I also changed the stone filter about a month after I got it and there were some white deposits on the old one so I cleaned out the housing and installed the new one. I know it doesn't run when below 41* but it's been warmer that at the track. Also I haven't seen the digital power gauge above 420 so it's clear it isn't working.

I'm wondering, aside from taking it to the dealer, if anyone has figured out any methods to test the system or has had the same issue?

I'm thinking there might be a clog somewhere but thought I' ask before starting to take it apart. I'm out of warranty and prefer to work on the car myself rather than leave it at my local dealer.

Thanks in advance

[Gomeler]

AFAIK everyone who has had those symptoms has taken it to the dealership and they replace the valve block with supposedly an updated version. I didn't compare any model numbers when mine was done, but I know they ordered the valve block and it took a bit to arrive from Germany. I suppose you could pull the valve block out and see if there is obvious corrosion inside. Or take it to the dealership and hope for a goodwill replacement, as it does seem to be a defect in the GTS.

[daveishi]

Originally Posted by Gomeler

AFAIK everyone who has had those symptoms has taken it to the dealership and they replace the valve block with supposedly an updated version. I didn't compare any model numbers when mine was done, but I know they ordered the valve block and it took a bit to arrive from Germany. I suppose you could pull the valve block out and see if there is obvious corrosion inside. Or take it to the dealership and hope for a goodwill replacement, as it does seem to be a defect in the GTS.

Thanks for the info. I did read through the entire other thread where some people had the same issue about four years ago. I really don't want to leave this car with the dealer as I have almost no relationship with them and no confidence that it won't be messed around with. I just took my wife's f30 for the first time and they did some extra work on it although it was outside of warranty for free so that's positive, but it also took forever and I didn't really like that they disconnected the dash cam. I guess if there's no good method for testing it then I'll just have to bite the bullet so to speak.

[jpdchicago]

I had the block replaced by the dealer last summer for the same reason. Even though I had the extended warranty, it was not covered. They ended up replacing it anyway since I have had a good relationship with them but had to pay the taxes on the parts. Came out to around $400 instead of over $ 3,000 for the whole job.
I believe a lot of people have had those replaced. Definitely an issue.
Worth it for peace of mind…

[stevetenney]

Put the car in M-Display mode looking at horsepower. Go out somewhere on the highway where you won’t get in trouble. Drop it down a gear or two and floor it. If you see around 500HP the water injection is working. If you see more like 450HP it’s not working. I didn’t think mine was working, but this test proved that it was.

[schnell325]

Originally Posted by stevetenney

Put the car in M-Display mode looking at horsepower. Go out somewhere on the highway where you won’t get in trouble. Drop it down a gear or two and floor it. If you see around 500HP the water injection is working. If you see more like 450HP it’s not working. I didn’t think mine was working, but this test proved that it was.

He’s only seeing 420 on the gauge unfortunately

[daveishi]

Originally Posted by jpdchicago

I had the block replaced by the dealer last summer for the same reason. Even though I had the extended warranty, it was not covered. They ended up replacing it anyway since I have had a good relationship with them but had to pay the taxes on the parts. Came out to around $400 instead of over $ 3,000 for the whole job.
I believe a lot of people have had those replaced. Definitely an issue.
Worth it for peace of mind…

Wow I'm a little surprised it wasn't covered under warranty, I was wishing the PO had bought an extended warranty but may have not helped here. Yea I'd be good with paying the tax, not sure I'd shell out the full amount.

Originally Posted by stevetenney

Put the car in M-Display mode looking at horsepower. Go out somewhere on the highway where you won’t get in trouble. Drop it down a gear or two and floor it. If you see around 500HP the water injection is working. If you see more like 450HP it’s not working. I didn’t think mine was working, but this test proved that it was.

I've done it at the track, nowhere near 500, closer to 430ish

[JustAnothaM4]

Originally Posted by stevetenney

Put the car in M-Display mode looking at horsepower. Go out somewhere on the highway where you won’t get in trouble. Drop it down a gear or two and floor it. If you see around 500HP the water injection is working. If you see more like 450HP it’s not working. I didn’t think mine was working, but this test proved that it was.

This!!! This information is a great way to tell if its working correctly or not.

[SYT_Shadow]

It would be easier if there were a mark at '500'. Instead we have like 420 and 560 or whatever they are and you have to guess where 500 should be. It's not easy to do this while WOT...

[daveishi]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

It would be easier if there were a mark at '500'. Instead we have like 450 and 560 or whatever they are and you have to guess where 500 should be. It's not easy to do this while WOT...

Agreed. I actually just reviewed my track video and noticed it actually reads higher than I had originally thought at certain locations. About 80% of the time at WOT it lands a bit above 420 (see pic), but in certain areas of the track it hits a bit higher (see 2nd pic).

The 2nd reading is a little less than halfway between the 420 and 560 marks. If we consider the middle to be 490, then it is possible I'm reading at around 470-480?

Very odd, that doesn't seem like a car that isn't consuming any water but that is indeed the case, and somehow I'm right in between 450 and 500.

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by daveishi

I just got back from my 3rd track day in the GTS and am now confident that it is not using any water at all.

I topped off the water tank when I bought it in October 2021 and after the first two track days thought it odd that I didn't need to add any water, however were are no errors popping up and didn't see anything with my code scanner. Also I always hear the pump purging the lines after I shut it down, it runs for about a minute so I figure the pump is ok.

I also changed the stone filter about a month after I got it and there were some white deposits on the old one so I cleaned out the housing and installed the new one. I know it doesn't run when below 41* but it's been warmer that at the track. Also I haven't seen the digital power gauge above 420 so it's clear it isn't working.

I'm wondering, aside from taking it to the dealer, if anyone has figured out any methods to test the system or has had the same issue?

I'm thinking there might be a clog somewhere but thought I' ask before starting to take it apart. I'm out of warranty and prefer to work on the car myself rather than leave it at my local dealer.

Thanks in advance

I have same problem, yesterday on the track did not consume a drop of water...
Tomorrow i will ask my friend at the bmw store if the replacement is covered.

Anyone know if it can be encoded in some way so that the system activates at a lower temperature?

[ClubsportJunkie]

FWIW, I've found that I need to change the filter every two events (4-5 track days).

[daveishi]

Originally Posted by Sh4d0w

FWIW, I've found that I need to change the filter every two events (4-5 track days).

How did you find that out? ie What were the symptoms? I replaced mine as soon as I got the car and have another spare but clearly replacing the original didn't do anything, about 5 track days in now.

[ClubsportJunkie]

Originally Posted by daveishi

How did you find that out? ie What were the symptoms? I replaced mine as soon as I got the car and have another spare but clearly replacing the original didn't do anything, about 5 track days in now.

I've replaced it three times at this point. Either it was throwing the error that there wasn't enough water in the tank or it wasn't using up water. Every time it was highly calcified. It's very easy to check yourself if you haven't already. IMO I'd try that first since it's an easy DIY and only $40 that you can reuse. Otherwise it sounds like you'll have to replace the block

[JimmyS]

Regarding the filters, in a pinch I’ve soaked them in CLR and then rinsed several times with distilled water. Solved my not using water problem when I couldn’t get a replacement before a track day.

[JLS_397K]

I am just going to throw in my quick input as to the usage of the water injection system.

I recently went to Big Willow raceway last weekend and the temperature was below 40*F when I drove out there in the morning. I did 4 20 minute sessions throughout the day. I saw the my first session did not have very much water usage. the water level was near the plastic seam near the top. The second session it may have dropped about a 1cm more. however on my third session, The water level went to about half way, a definite noticeable drop. I may have video to see the M-Gauges but I cant confirm yet, I generally run Tire Temp Display.

A couple of things to consider is that the water system is only used when you are above 5000 RPM and FULL Throttle, Not 6800 RPM and 80% throttle (Nor Full throttle pedal input but 85% ECU Throttle due to DSC/Traction interference). Also the GTS boost goes from the 17 PSI found on M4C to about 21-22 PSI boost. That's fine by itself, but you have to understand that the water is there to reduce the intake temperature, make air denser and cooler... which then allows to operate continuously at higher boost with out the possibility of knock or pre combustion. Unfortunately we can not see intake manifold temps easily and see what the ECU is determining. Its considering Boost, Throttle, Air Temp before it initiates water injection to say the least.

If Air is in the ideal temperature range within the intake manifold/post intercooler while at full boost/full throttle, then why add water right?

[Dan512]

Originally Posted by JimmyS

Regarding the filters, in a pinch I’ve soaked them in CLR and then rinsed several times with distilled water. Solved my not using water problem when I couldn’t get a replacement before a track day.

Silly question maybe but how do I access the filters you mention?

[schnell325]

Originally Posted by Dan512

Silly question maybe but how do I access the filters you mention?

See page 46

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...9&d=1463413166

[Dan512]

Originally Posted by schnell325

See page 46

https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/at...9&d=1463413166

Thanks a lot!!!

[Track/S]

Yesterday I changed the filter and updated the software of the ecu, I just need to try.

[SYT_Shadow]

Originally Posted by Prodrive_X

Yesterday I changed the filter and updated the software of the ecu, I just need to try.

how did you update the software? At the dealer?

[Track/S]

Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow

how did you update the software? At the dealer?

03/2018 update, with esys, never go to the dealer